I hear a lot of horror stories about using the wrong primer, Rustoleum etc. But my intent is to use a light coat of primer then sand to help find high/low spots. Most of the primer will be sanded off, but of course there will be a residue. So, what rattle can product is best for this process.
I'm no paint guru,but I have never had anything stick to Rustoleum primer. I have had very good luck with Krylon and they do make a sandable rattle can primer. I get mine,sigh, at Walmart.
I've used the Transtar Guide Coat with good results. #9183 Most paint supply houses will have quite a few choices for guide coats. Sometimes I'll just spray another color primer though.
Go to an automotive store and buy "self-etching" spray can primer. Most paint suppliers have it and it all seems to be good. I've never used anything better from a spray can...and modern paints like BC/CC will go right over it with no problem. I use it for small parts and for sand-thrus on the edges of outer panels that have highbuild primers on them. I've NEVER had a single issue with it! Wait a sec....I just reread your actually looking for a guide coat! You can buy that...but I use a very light dusting of flat black spraybomb. You actually need very little and too much would tend to clog your paper anyway. NO rustoleum or anything though. Has an oily base. Perhaps go with something like Plasticoat.
we use rattle can guide coat at the shop all the time. any quick dry , contrasting color will do the job as well, its not all that critical what you use, but more , "how" you use it. as long as you stay away from the mentioned brands that clogg the paper when sanding skull
I got some answers, but still have a question: If a residue of guide coat is left on the surface, will it effect a final prime or filler prime ?
I don't see how its a concern. If you use it sparingly as you should, it will be completely gone in final blocking the surface. If you do have a couple of areas where you can still see it and it bothers you that it will be overcoated, rub it off before you reprime with high-build...because if you still have it on the surface you MUST have low spots.
What you need to use for guide coats is rattle can black lacquer. Here in Socal all the major auto parts suppliers carry it. Even Home Depot and Lowes carry it also.
there is also "stuff" that is made just for this purpose. The name escapes me at the moment, but body supply shops will have it. It comes in a small can and is a powder the consistancy of powdered sugar. You rub it on with an applicator pad like a wax, then sand over it. When all the powder is gone, all the low spots are gone. After all, that's the purpose of guide coats........this stuff comes in dark as well as lite colors to contrast the surface you are guide-coating. You can do atleast one complete car with it, and maybe even two........it goes a long ways.
SEM, or transtar products in rattle car are compatable with almost any automotive topcoat..single stage or base/clear. The power stuff customrod48 is talking about is made by 3M and also works well. Your local autobody supply place will have it.
3M Dry Guide Coat. I use it all the time and love it. It does not clog since it's just a powder. I use in between grits to make sure there are no sand scratches left over from courser grits, as well as to find low spots. It's cheap, and goes a long ways!
I am sure it probaly has a fancy name, but back in my auto body days we just called it "Dry guide coat". I am sure if you go to a auto body supply store and ask for dry guide coat that is what they will hand you.
in theory you should remove it all, in relaity, few do.....i dont see it as a problem if a little is left behind. i'd hit the areas with a scratch pad, as far a chemical reactions, or future paint problems, dont be too concerned. skull
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