Fram Filters...Anyone having trouble with them

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html


This is a very good study done on most all oil filters


http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/index.shtml This is one done on motocycle oil filters

 

Luckily never had any trouble but all the horror stories scared me. Don't use anything but AC Delco on my GM's and Wix on my Chryslers.

 

I read this post a couple of months back and was completely floored by how bad FRAM filters are. I used them on my daily drivers for years. I always wondered why the oil on my wife's Nissan was black after on 1,000 miles with good synthetic oil. I used to change the synthetic oil every 2,500 miles or less. Just nuts. I blamed the fact the engine revs high and doesn't have a large oil capacity. I was also starting the get some valve clatter on start-up since the flow-back valve on the FRAM filters disintegrate.

After reading the thread, I went to NAPA and bought their premium filter and did an oil change the same day. 1,500 miles later the oil was still a nice brown and no more valve clatter for the most part. I couldn't believe it.

Thanks for educating me on just how SHIT these filters are. You probably saved me an engine. I will never buy another FRAM filter and I'm spreading the news.

What I can't believe is that this company hasn't gotten their ass sued for ruining engines. If I had stuck with the manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals I probably would need a rebuild.

 

oh the bosch/stp used to be really high quality, now that have gone to crap inside. sticking to wix.

 

geez i cant believe no one has mentioned that the seals on frams stick to the block when when the filter is removed ,i have heard a lot of nightmares over this one and i have seen it quite freqently

 

Are they oiling the seal?

 

I'm not sure but Fram recalled a bunch of filters recently because the seals get soft and leak, sounds like it's related to the same problem

 

The rubber seal sticking to the block is usually because they didn't put oil on it like you're supposed to when they installed it. When I was in the repair business, I saw o-rings stuck to the block from every brand of filter you could name. That is not a quality control issue from the filter manufacturer, but your oil change guy. I've never had an o-ring stick from a filter I installed, of any brand ... And if you are a decent car guy, you will notice something like oil pouring out between the filter and block, and shut the car off before any damage is done.
There are plenty of legit things to bash Fram about, but this isn't one of them.

 

i dont know anybody that is so dumb as to not oil the seal. it happend on my bike first and then started finding seals on the floor. and how long do you think it takes to cook that several drops of oil you put on that seal?

 

BIGTONY...I've always used FRAM, and will untill 1 let's me down. man you can hear all kind's of B.S. like some people here saying MALLORY is not as good as before. and i don't buy that B.S. either. hell i even heard 1 guy say ( tunnel rams don't like low r.p.m.s ) my son's chevy idles at 800 r.p.m. with a tunnel ram and 1 big ass roller cam...to each his own...POP.

 

I've had engines destroyed from the debris caused by a collapsing fram filter, They are crap, cut one open one day, compare it to a good filter, you don't need a scientific analysis to see the cheap garbage that's inside of them.

 

ever since honeywell bought them they are junk.........honeywell buys good companys with good name and figures out how to make the product overseas for 20% of the cost and still get the same retail price.........HONEYWELL...................SUCKS

 

A few years back I worked as a sales rep for a major manufacturer of all types of filters. They were pretty tight lipped about who they made filters for, but they did have paint from almost brand on the shelf.

 

Not anyone, everyone.

Bob

 

No kiddin...just cut one open. You'll NEVER use another one on anything you care about. Pure crap.

 

I've used them for decades and never had any kind of problem with them. For that matter, never had a problem with any AC, STP, Lee, Baldwin, or Wix filter. I don't need to cut one open. There are plenty of automotive engineers who do that every day. When the new car manufacturers start voiding warranties because of using a certain brand oil filter, I'll stop using whatever brand that is.

 

whatever.........

 

Who carries Jomar?
I saw a post here that said they were cheaper from a dealer than the website...so who sells them?

 

I think we have wore this subject out....
Fram is not reliable and Wix is preferred by all.
I am a race engine guy and we only use Wix Racing filters.

Nuff said !!

 

I'm calling B.S. on this. Not trying to be a dick, but what "old school" engines are you refering to that are designed to filter only a percentage of the oil? A SBC for example is designed to filter 100% of the oil under normal operating conditions. The by-pass is there in the event the oil filter gets clogged. The oil will by-pass the filter and continue on to the main oil passages preventing doom. The valve can by-pass some oil when the engine is cold and the pressure is high, which would allow some unfiltered oil into the engine. A plugged by-pass valve can cause a cheapo filter to burst if the cold oil pressure is too high, or if the engine is revved too high further increasing oil pressure. . What kinda engines last 300-400k? What kinda engines get 300k on a set of bearings that are reusable for 300k more? So, 600,000 miles on a set of bearings? Are you serious? Are we talking diesel here? The first 300,000 miles in the 70's? In the 70's, cars were considered worn out at 100,000 miles. Anybody out there got 600,000 miles on their hot rods with the same bearings in them? If not,maybe your oil filter by-pass is plugged and you just don't know how to rebuild your engine. Come on, man show me some examples and I'll shut the fuck up!

 

Wix yes. Fram, no, not ever again, under any circumstance.

 

Fram filters cost $5.00 back in the "60's ?!?!?

 

Yes, oil filters are one of the things that were more expensive in the past. The Phillips 66 station that I worked in during high school charged $5.50 for Purolator filters.

 

What was the failure?

Tig

 

Had one blow off a motorcycle (Honda 1500 'wing) at speed!, come to find out about TSB on bad thread cuts and instead of sh*t canning bad filters just recut threads and left paper thin attachment area, never again. Was told Wal-Mart house brand made by well known and respected mfg., I have used them for years with no issues what-so-ever.

 

Group 7? <grin>

 

doesn't seem to matter, it is as if seal glues itself to engine and if you do not look to insure old seal in removed filter you end up with a double gasket and weak and leaking filter.

FRAM= Fuked 'rupt another motor.

 

had a seam leak on fram
i used them in my shop several problems they would never reply to problem
i get wix and napa gold cheaper than the cheepest filters out there special fleet deal
that is not why i buy them
cut the others apart and you will make your owne desigion

Group 7 is Puralator no problems they are cheep they are a shop grade

 

Well converted to WIX today went down to Napa
the long lasting relationship with ford and fram
have just come to a end in my house

unfortunatly i think the pic shows the orange

 

nope doesnt show cant remember what i had on there that day