TECH...well sorta... JAG IFS into mid fifties F100

The same reason I haven't posted a build thread on my 49 short bed. You doing a great job.

 

Really guys wait until all your panels are on and ready to run before you go Zeeing the frame or getting softer or lower springs made. I did the same thought it would be sat real high so had some springs made up, softer and lower. When I finally had it all pinned together it dropped whack straight down onto the bump stops. the springs I has made were only 60lb a side softer and 1" lower. I now have some brand fire new XJ6 with aircon ones fitted and are perfect. Bearing in mind mine is a 302 with T5 trans the T5 alone is about 100lb lighter than the C4 plus I have alloy head's, inlet, w/p etc etc.
Here is a photo, of it when I first finished it, if you want lower then OK.

 

The newer sedans have a tolally different mounting setup--outboard brake rotors(the only good thing about them) with big a shaped lower arms and are not the self contained unit--that sux.

How long did it take you th drop this and what all tools was needed?

 

I just packed up what I thought I might need. Socket set, combo wrench set, Cresent wrenches, screwdrivers,. Basic stuff.

Oh, and a Big F'n Hammer....

 

So --now it comes time to stick that sucker under the rear. If you're not using the cage---is it pretty easy to take the center 4 bolt pattern and make a custom crossmember to go between the rails?

What would be the right C channel width to use? 8"?

 

These are some old (not very good) pics of a rear one I bought (already done). Hope this helps! You also need some plating underneath! ( Sorry, no pics)
Charlie!!

 

hmmm. Thanks for the pic, Looks like the dual rear coilover shocks on either side were done away with for single Alladin coilovers on each side. Im sure i'll try to get away with that --shose shocks are expensive!

 

Are the Jaguars unibodies or full frame cars?

 

uni

 

Thanks.

 

Those trailing arms were done incorrectly.

Either lose them (not needed if the pumpkin is solidly mounted properly), or change them such that the front of the trailing arms pivot on an imaginary axis drawn forward thru the lower inner fulcrum shaft bearings to the front of the car.

Reason: Jag rears have no rubber bushings (solid, tapered roller bearings) and have no interference movement at all. Driving the vehicle as that one is build will introduce interference movement, and since there is not any, you will be stressing and flexing pieces not intended to be stressed or flexed.

The stock Jag runs the no-rubber-bushing IRS inside a cage that itself is mounted in rubber. That's why Jag used the trailing arms - to control the movement of the overall cage.

This is a very common error and probably arises from builders used to rubber-bushed, interference suspensions as opposed to the Jag IRS.

 

Yep your dead right.

 

I know! I bought it for the chassis and I haven't started on it yet!!!
Charlie!!

 

There has been quite a bit of mention of these Jag IFS's going into 54-56 F1 trucks but will this work for a 58 F100? There is a 73 XJ12 available in my area and I was thinking of getting the IFS out of it if it would work.
Any help would be appreciated.

KK

 

I forgot to ask but if this will work, what all do you take from the Jag? Are there any connecting parts that can be used from it?

Thanks again.

 

The Rag Joint on the steering shaft. Well, if you plan on rubber mounting the IFS. Not sure how wide your frame is at your axle centerline, but from what I've seen, the F100 guys have to notch the frame for the towers to fit.

 

Hi

I have a '23 Ford T bucket with a 2x4 steel tube frame with a Jag IRS. I just purchased a complete front suspension clip from a '90 Vandam Plas which I plan to use to replace my front axel and "suspension".

The frame width of my car is 30 1/4" from o/s of the rail to o/s the rail on the other side. There appears to be plenty of room for the IFS fo to fit on my frame. I plan to get rid of anything I dont need and boxing in any open areas.

My plan is to come off the frame with a support section for the upper control arm and to notch the Jag crossmenber as needed and weld it to the frame.

On the IFS I have there are coil springs on each side plus a coilover shock similar to the dual coilovers on the rear IRS. I would like to eliminare the big springs and add a second coilover to the front.

Has anyone out there heard of doing this or am I just way out there and it just can't be done?

Looking for any advice you may have.

Thank you

Linden

 

Independant front on a T bucket?
Man, are you on the wrong site for sure.

 

Don't put an IFS on a T bucket. It'll be beyond ugly...

and do an intro

 

this the ugly one, 1989> still, I will put it under something for fun, looks easier to mount, 3.58:1 locker

 

Gettin' flamed on his first post. Wow! I personally could care less as long as it's done right and looks good. No it can't look as good as a traditional front end on a bucket, but at least it won't be a cookie cutter. With some crafty fab work, paint, and chrome..... I'm sure it could be made presentable and actually be a pleasure to drive. Good luck with it. But be careful posting on this site ; ) I'm shocked we have threads like this on here. Who would of thought that the best Jag suspension install threads would be found on the HAMB???
When I first got my 46' Harvester and joined this site, posted up my ideas for my truck....... I thought I was gonna get locked out and banned from the site. I ended up joining a couple other sites and started build threads there as the members were far more open to any type of build and were into creativity and anything goes type of builds. Yet, here I am back on the HAMB where I get most of my info and advice. Just had to learn how to present my ideas and use the proper terms so the flames don't come from all angles ; )
This is far and away the best site to tap into the knowledge of builders who have seen and done it all. I sure appreciate it.

 

For those that have the Jag suspensions..... Did you have your spindles turned down to fit standard wheels, or did you have the wheels opened up to fit? What is the best way to do this? I need to get my chassis rolling with the right wheels and tires. I'm yet to mount the rear still. I just picked up a mismatched set of Vectors but they obviously will not fit. I think the look will work for my truck so I'm gonna try to find another pair to maybe have a matching set of Vectors. What does it take to have the spindles/hubs turned down? Do I have to tear everything apart to take it to a machine shop? What kind of charge should I expect???

 

I ran the Jag wires for a few years then got some Supremes last year. The Supremes fit fine.

 

I just run 15" wheels with a Chevy 4.75" x 5 pattern, The Jag is the same.

 

The problem is that the wheels will not slip all the way onto the hub. The shoulder on them is too wide. I have tried two sets of 4.75 wheels and both were the same. The lug pattern is not the issue.

 

The aftermarket gennie, ford styled steel wheels (take the dog dish caps) that I purchased for my 49 Ford Pickup do fit over the shoulder on the Jag hub. If I remember correctly some tri chevy wheels that I used as rollers had the same issue that you are having. If it me I would probably just turn down that raised diameter on the Jag hubs. If I remember, the interference on the diameter was not that much (less than .100 inches on the diameter. My lathe is a 13" southbend and obviously I could not turn a wheel but I could chuch up and turn the hubs. I would turn the diamer to match the diameter of the wheels (not smaller) since that helps take load off the studs of the hub when rolling down the road.

 

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this is the jag i found to use on mine, it's a 96 xj8 (all alluminum) might be hard to do,with that high coil over shock, but i could do steel L bracket welded off the frame, and make cup to fit the shock. if i can fit it under my fender.

 

I don't know what it is , but that is not a 96 XJ8. (XJ8 came out in 97)

 

Did you weld your Jag IFS right to your frame or mount it using the rubber mounts with similar frame to cross-member spacing as IRON MAIDEN has?

Also, anyone know if there is anyway to change to a 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern on the Jag IFS? I assume a good machine shop could just re-drill the jag hubs.

I've got everything to do the Volare swap on my '56 F100 but am considering going this route instead since it seems it would be the better route and about as affordable.

Thanks,
Jordan