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Projects Toymaker's Twin Engine Dragster Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Toymaker, Nov 22, 2010.

  1. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    HeHeHe, yep! Thanks Josh, Rocky

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  2. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Before going any further with the rear end mounts I thought I'd better check the bell housing alignment and I found it was off by .020". So off it came, drilled the mounting and pilot holes out and got it within .003", then made some plates with the dowel hole diameter and welded them to the housing. While I had it off I also straightened the trans up to allow the "Top" shift to clear the frame rail. All back together and time to fab the rearend mounting.
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  3. Wow Roc don't you ever sleep? Great job and keep up the good work its coming together!!!..............
    We will be back in town tomorrow or tues talk to ya then.........
     
  4. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    After consulting with my wife Tamara I got the okay to dedicate myself to the Twin and have a roller by the March Meet. She even sent in the entry today, an Angel I tell you:D
    No pic's but I made the engine mounting tabs, welded them to the frame and drilled the motor plates, straightened the rearend housing (heat shrinked) so the alignment bar is centered and started on the rearend uprights.
    I'm also starting on the front end, machined my F-1 spindiles down to pass car specs and started on the pieces to mount the frontend to look like a torsion suspension. 2 weeks, here we go!!! Rocky
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  5. Great news! Keep after it!
     
  6. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Tonight I fitted the X braces between the engine and rearend, I want to get all this area welded before I mount the rear end in case of any movement due to welding. I also installed a Xmember below the 3rd member for the anti-rotation mount and shaped the frame to frt axle links that will simulate a torsion set up.
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    Also shown are the F1 spindles machined to car specs and the Harly wire wheels I plan on using.
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    After cleaning up I had to set a tire up and take it all in:D
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  7. Conniptor
    Joined: Feb 3, 2011
    Posts: 27

    Conniptor
    Member
    from New Jersey

    Nice progress! I'm loving this build. Very cool that your front tires say "Twin Tire" on them, was that deliberate?
     
  8. Keep cracking away at it, that last mockup surely must get you excited, looking forward (as I'm sure you are) to seeing it on it's wheels on the ground.

    In a evil/twisted kinda way I wonder which would win over the 1/8th, this twin mill or your HA/GR?

    Cheers,

    Drewfus
     
  9. Tom S. in Tn.
    Joined: Jan 16, 2011
    Posts: 1,108

    Tom S. in Tn.
    Member

  10. all I can say is "WOW Roc" ....................
     
  11. Love this build - I'd be interested in buying a "twin" package of all the twin specific parts you made (engine plates, bellhousings, trans, etc.) to build a twin powered show rod.

    Steve
     
  12. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    I had forgot all about the tires, we had bought them a couple of years ago for our HAMB Dragster and didn't make the connection:eek:

    The TWIN better come out on TOP:D

    The design I chose wouldn't be good for any application that would require running the car any real distance IMO but I have the patterns, Rocky
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  13. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Another productive weekend finishing some of the more challenging parts of the build. After fitting a couple of uprights in the drvers area (still need to add the kidney bars) and fabbing the anti-rotation bracket I dove into the front upper frame rails.
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    The upper rails need to be removable to get the engines out so I came up with this connection...............
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    The connection will require the lower frame to flex, allowing the upper rail to seperate enough (about 1/2") to uncouple the connection. The upper rail connects to the engines where the old front mounts were.
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    Once the upper rails were completed the task of "Pie" cutting the frame rail ends was next, and really had me intimidated.
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    The rails are 1 3/4" (lower) and 1 1/2" top so I started with marking 1" off the lower and 3/4" on the top. After cutting it short of my mark and grinding and grinding the measurement turned out perfect so the other side went much quicker.
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    All tac'd together and time to fish mouth the frame end for the "Torsion" tube. I measured for wheelbase and dilled 1/4" pilot holes on both sides of each rail then cut with a 1 3/4" hole saw. Having a piece of metal for the holesaw to rest on really helps with keeping your cut centered.
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    Cleaned up the cuts, final fitted remeasuring the wheelbase and tac'd in the tube.
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    After all the work I had a little time to play and mock it up:D
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    With any luck it may be running by May!
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  14. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,422

    64 DODGE 440
    Member
    from so cal

    Damn Rocky...that thing is going together quick. How many cases of Red Bull so far? :p
     
  15. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    I've been keeping it to 1 12oz a day, I don't want to get addicted:D
    Tom, I've been trying to put into words my Tube bender build but it was a build as I went project years ago. I started with a Harbor Frieght Pipe bender, bent a piece of 1 1/2 pipe I think and made my first die from that. The piece was fitted to a piece of 1 3/4" tube then plated it and ground it to be 1/2 of the tube diameter. Then I took another piece of "pipe" and sliced it in 1/2 to make a "troff" ? SP, plating it something fierce to eliminate flexing. With that all done I used the hydaulic jack that came with the bender, made a frame and wala, a very eXspensive bender that I could of bought 2 for the time involved. I don't even know the radius, it just looks good to me and right for the older look I like:D
    I learned somethings along the way with it that only could be taught (to me anyway) by the build but man I remember thinking if the damn thing don't work:eek: I WASTED a BUNCH of time. Rocky
     
  16. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,299

    31chevymike
    Member

    Hey Rocky! I've subscribed to this thread and wanted to tell you how your efforts and skills are quite impressive! Man, when it comes time to fire that twin mill up in the near future, you need to do another You Tube video to satisfy all of us HAMBER'S cravings for the sweet sounds of V-8 POWER!! GREAT JOB!!!
     
  17. Tom S. in Tn.
    Joined: Jan 16, 2011
    Posts: 1,108

    Tom S. in Tn.
    Member

    What is the finished wheel base?
    Tom S.
     
  18. Racrdad
    Joined: Jul 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,208

    Racrdad
    Member

    Looking good! Nice progress, I dig the intake for sure!
     
  19. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Thanks Guys and the wheelbase is 120".
     
  20. Well Roc I got started today, what do you tink, I will add a coulpa mounting tabs if you need them or just use 3/4 clamps..........Oh the outlets are 5 1/2 on centers to match the manifold.......
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    Happiness is a big pile metal shavings....................
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2011
  21. nexxussian
    Joined: Mar 14, 2007
    Posts: 3,240

    nexxussian
    Member

    What machine is that?
     
  22. Tom S. in Tn.
    Joined: Jan 16, 2011
    Posts: 1,108

    Tom S. in Tn.
    Member

    OK Carl......... nuff showing off now !
    :)
    Tom S.
     
  23. What machine is that?
    __________________
    Erik


    A Smitty 1220 mill/lathe combo, slow but good enough for this idiot.................
     
  24. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    LOOKS GREAT Carl, especially hooked to these!:D
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    Yep, it's on the ground and ready for the frt axle build but here's the way we got here from where we last left off.
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    Lee welded what he could after I completed the front frame bracing.
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    The RH rear end bracket was a little more than a 1/2 RD cut as it had to follow the contour of the center section, so I make a little "Widget" to transfer the shape to the plate. Mark your project with line to follw to keep the shape transfer correct. I've used this metHod before on wheel tub projects and works really well and I have layout dye but a good "Magic Marker" works great!
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    Once I was happy with the rearend alignment the rearend housing was welded to the brackets after they were bolted to the frame, I used 3/8" bolts for now but they will be increased to (4 per side) 7/16" when finished.
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    My alignment tool is all scrap pieces including some old pistons;)
    With this all done I cut some old axles mounted the wheels, and put her on the ground!
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    And this ones for you Tom:D
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  25. poofus1929
    Joined: Jan 29, 2008
    Posts: 897

    poofus1929
    Member
    from So Cal

    Awesome work. :D You are cranking this badboy out real fast.
     
  26. fenderless
    Joined: Mar 31, 2006
    Posts: 1,286

    fenderless
    Member
    from Norway

    Outstanding work guys:)

    Can't wait to see first action video of this:):)!

    ................................
    Taildragger&fenderless
     
  27. Thirdyfivepickup
    Joined: Nov 5, 2002
    Posts: 6,093

    Thirdyfivepickup
    Member

    the roller is money! I love it!
     
  28. LeadSledMerc
    Joined: Nov 29, 2003
    Posts: 4,105

    LeadSledMerc
    Member

    Awesome progress every time I check this build...lookin great!!! :cool:
     
  29. nailheadroadster
    Joined: Jun 7, 2006
    Posts: 1,525

    nailheadroadster
    Member

    WOW!!! I just found this thread tonight and read it alllll the way through. Super job!!!
     

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