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1940 Nash Build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by playin' hookie, Mar 1, 2011.

  1. playin' hookie
    Joined: Mar 27, 2004
    Posts: 188

    playin' hookie
    Member

    Thought I'd start a build thread as I haven't been contributing as much as I would have liked lately. The last few years have been fun to say the least but things have been getting better and better each month. I've been spending some one on one time with my new babygirl and grandma takes her for 2-3 days a week so I can get some much needed shop time.
    This thread will be showing the results of that effort. I will start a seperate thread for another car I have on the go too. So if you see something else of interest in the background of a few of the pictures don't be surprised, I'm not a good secret keeper!
    Anyway, I've started out with a nice 1940 nash business coupe. I won't make eveyone bored with the dis-assembly of the interior, windows and trim and all that stuff but I will say this girl is really complete and in good shape for a canadian car that's for sure. Rust? yep of course. Lower quarters in front of wheels had an old repair I will re-do, small spot at front edge of rockers, inner rockers and some floor work, rear inner valance and bottom of trunk lid.

    Here she is when I got her.
    [​IMG]

    Body mods planned. Frenching the headlights and taillights. Extending the running boards to meet the fenders, gas filler delete, something with the bumpers but I haven't decided yet, angle chop, opening up hood sides in an interesting way, smoth emblems and handles, pancake the hood. And I'm still wrestling with the idea of an angle section. I don't want the car to look squished like the current trend is becoming. I want swooping and have it look like she's going 100 sitting still. I will be retaining the body side mouldings.

    Sorry guys, you aren't going to see a gasser or a taildragger but you will see what I envision of a custom with it's roots firmly planted in the hotrod gene pool.
    Update to follow: just have to get the babies lunch and nap!
     
  2. playin' hookie
    Joined: Mar 27, 2004
    Posts: 188

    playin' hookie
    Member

    So after I stared at her for a long time and she finally started to talk to me and tell me what she need I put in a few braces and made sure everything still lined up well (and noted what really didn't) I broke out the sharpies, tape, made sure I had a few cutting discs, chopsaw blades, snips, drill, plasma cutter, chopsaw, hacksaw just incase, juice in the welder, extra wire. and away we go...
    I laid out some lines where I figured best to cut. I'm taking an inch and a half out of the front post, angling the C post and taking as little out of the leading edge of the C posts to make it all work. I figured the roof would end up moving forward less than an inch by my measurements and it ended up being about 3/4 and about 1/2" off the leading edge of the C nothing off the rear of it.
    here are a bunch of pictures, I tried to capture each step but missed a couple during the action and did the "oops shouldn't snapped that pic! oh well" some of them a a bit rough as I just grabbed my phone to keep things moving along, especially in the beginning.

    so here is the a post with the first piece missing.

    [​IMG]

    then the "centre"section removed. b pillar and door posts. you can see the other side still in place, it's coming out next.

    [​IMG]

    here she is with both sides removed and resting on the stubs. You may have noticed that the front posts and front of the door are cut at different spots. I did this because I use the section cut out that matches best in width and shape to reassemble. this helps keep the flow going and less cutting and filling. It also is sitting about an inch lower than the final result will be here.

    [​IMG]


    Next I cut along the C pillar about a 1/2" above the body line on the flattest portion of the quarter then straight across the back just in front of the trunk lid also the flattest and strongest area and least likely to warp when I work her back together. Underneath I needed to cut a couple of package tray braces and also split the trunklid mounts that run underneath. They will need to be extended the same amount that the roof moved forward too. (that'll come later)
    here's a couple snapshots that explain it clearer than I probably just did.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    you may have also noticed that I scribed three "locating" lines on the rear. This is so I'm sure I maintain my center as I slide it forward. Note: this "missing" section isn't missing that's how much it moved forward as I lined up the front post again and then tacked them in place.

    [​IMG]


    And here's how we look. That was the easy part.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  3. HELLVIS
    Joined: Dec 10, 2010
    Posts: 324

    HELLVIS
    Member

    very interesting, let see some profile pics
     
  4. Okie Pete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 4,968

    Okie Pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nice car like the direction your are going with it. Be sure to spend time with your girl before you know it she will want the keys .:rolleyes:
     

  5. playin' hookie
    Joined: Mar 27, 2004
    Posts: 188

    playin' hookie
    Member

    Next came the time to get things lined up better because after moving things forward, I was left with this.

    [​IMG]

    You can see my cut lines there. So I cut a section out, moved it forward a little trim at the window opening.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Next I wanted to get the upper rear quarter lined up better and tacked in place. With the angle of the chop it left a bit of material to work with so I marked and cut, then worked the snips to get a good gap.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    A few filler strips to be added to the angle sections but that's boring so let's look at the B Pillar. I wanted to wok the post to match and flow so I didnt just want to shorten it (which would have been nice and easy). Here's what it looks like to start. Lots of adjustment need here!

    [​IMG]

    So I tacked the lower part in place after lining up the bottom of the window. then I cut the upper portion in relation to where I wanted the top of the window to stop and also line up with the flowing edge of the frame.

    [​IMG]

    This left me a nice section missing on the top, I had a piece removed earlier but it didn't fit right (close but not close enough) so I bent up this one on the brake and got it in place.

    [​IMG]

    so now I'm left with this misalignment. Time to cut and paste. Turns out they were right, everything I needed to know about life I did learn in kindergarden!
    I think I got some good pics here so I'll shut up and let them do the talking.

    cut:

    [​IMG]
    slide:
    [​IMG]
    patch and fill the left over holes:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Fun, next I need to get the door post working right. More to come, time for my lunch.
     
  6. playin' hookie
    Joined: Mar 27, 2004
    Posts: 188

    playin' hookie
    Member

    Man, no doubt, my oldest is 15 in May and she's been reminding me weekly that she'll be driving soon.

    Hellvis, I'll be sure to find a profile pic for ya. Here's a before to hold you over though.


    [​IMG]
     
  7. looking good man.
     
  8. playin' hookie
    Joined: Mar 27, 2004
    Posts: 188

    playin' hookie
    Member

    Thanks, I've been trying. Lot's of guys on the HAMB are much better than I am and I'm inspired by many of them but I hadn't seen alot of posts for these cars so I thought I'd share instead of just lurking.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2011
  9. playin' hookie
    Joined: Mar 27, 2004
    Posts: 188

    playin' hookie
    Member

    Alright, so next I wanted to make sure my door frame would line up ok before I moved to filling in all those pesky gaps. So first I trimmed the front of the door frame I had previously removed, a bit at a time so I wouldn't remove too much. keeping all gaps and alignment in and out in mind.

    [​IMG]

    then where the back edge stopped I transposed that to the b post so I can start trimming the back of the frame to line up and install. You can also notice the top of the frame hangs over abit, I'll be dealing with that soon enough too

    [​IMG]

    trimmed the back of the door frame a bit at a time, sneeking up on it!

    [​IMG]

    then tacked it in place and ran a rough tape line on the new shape.

    [​IMG]

    somemore trimming and here we go. Getting closer each day. So this is where I am as of today. The gaps are real nice (even though in these pics they look a little uneven, they aren't). Next step is to work on where the back of the door frame meets the door and then a couple small filler pieces. I have the other side braced in place at the same height and I wanted to get this side done so I can make a pattern for both window openings to make sure they are perfectly matching on both sides after all the angles were dealt with. Should have another update on Thursday. Thanks for looking.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2011
  10. 392_33
    Joined: Nov 30, 2010
    Posts: 175

    392_33
    Member

    Very very cool. I just put deposit down on a -37 Nash coupe and your thread could not have come at a better time
     
  11. ironandsteele
    Joined: Apr 25, 2006
    Posts: 5,918

    ironandsteele
    Member

    this is gonna be a very sweet car indeed. keep going!
     
  12. playin' hookie
    Joined: Mar 27, 2004
    Posts: 188

    playin' hookie
    Member

    Thanks guys, I should have another update by the weekend.
     
  13. JamesMcD
    Joined: Dec 19, 2008
    Posts: 138

    JamesMcD
    Member

    I hope you keep the drip rails.

    Cool car.
     
  14. Hdonlybob
    Joined: Feb 1, 2005
    Posts: 4,115

    Hdonlybob
    Member

    Wow...awesome....
    My first car ever was a 1940 Nash...bought it in 1958 (when I was 14)
    It was the 4 door with the straight 8 twin ignition....
    Yours is looking great! I love the long hood with that chop..
    What you gonna do for power ??
     
  15. Dynaflash_8
    Joined: Sep 24, 2008
    Posts: 3,038

    Dynaflash_8
    Member
    from Auburn WA

    Very neat car. I have a 41' Ambassador 600 coupe i built into a hotrod
     
  16. hasty
    Joined: Jul 5, 2009
    Posts: 1,411

    hasty
    Member

    Looks really good. Are you going to post a link to your other build on this thread?
     
  17. BadassBadger
    Joined: Oct 24, 2010
    Posts: 460

    BadassBadger
    Member
    from wisconsin

    oh very nice! you gonna suicide the doors?
     
  18. chevydave1965
    Joined: May 2, 2010
    Posts: 370

    chevydave1965
    Member
    from Iowa

  19. Soreback
    Joined: Nov 25, 2007
    Posts: 223

    Soreback
    Member

    That's a nice piece of work there.
     
  20. playin' hookie
    Joined: Mar 27, 2004
    Posts: 188

    playin' hookie
    Member

    definatly keeping the drip rails.
    thanks, I appreciate that
    Undecided yet. I have too many ideas rolling in my head! ;) Big Caddy powered maybe?

    Not on this one.

    Thanks! I'm trying'
     
  21. Hdonlybob
    Joined: Feb 1, 2005
    Posts: 4,115

    Hdonlybob
    Member

    A big 10-4 on the Caddy Engine !!!!
     
  22. radio_king
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 403

    radio_king
    Member

    Subscribed!Looking really good,keep em updates coming,cool car.
     

  23. We learn by doing, that how all the guys on here got so good. You're no slouch, you're doing great. Except for the slanted b-pillars, you're doing you chop very close to how we chopped Desire when i was working at HRCC.

    Remember, what sets us apart from the hacks... ...is that when we make mistakes, we learn from them. Just keep it up and keep those updates coming.
     
  24. BadassBadger
    Joined: Oct 24, 2010
    Posts: 460

    BadassBadger
    Member
    from wisconsin

    yes caddy is a plus! how about a flat head caddy! that be real sweet
     
  25. playin' hookie
    Joined: Mar 27, 2004
    Posts: 188

    playin' hookie
    Member

  26. Stevie Nash
    Joined: Oct 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,999

    Stevie Nash
    Member

    Is it in western Iowa?
     
  27. playin' hookie
    Joined: Mar 27, 2004
    Posts: 188

    playin' hookie
    Member

    Thanks guys, I'm trying.


    So I got back to it for a few hours today. Welded in the front posts, took a few splices inside and out to get the drip rail lines up and everything right. Grind/blend and metal work is just about there. A bit more work on it will be just about right.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    found some factory lead at the back of the door so I heated and removed that (no grinding and wore my mask just in case) so I have some nice metal to work with and see what was hidden. Surprise. UGLY. Hard to see in the picture but the top looks like someone took a hammer to it.

    [​IMG]

    so I've made a little patch piece to get the contour in the window opening and I'm going to cut out and replace the "hammered and battered" factory repair (just to soft to pull back into place and trust it).

    [​IMG]

    cut a couple other filler pieces, top of the b pillar that had a gap left from the post install. Added a small section to the bottom of the side window, needed a couple relief cuts to make the contour work there too.

    Coming together slowly but that's ok, more soon.

    [​IMG]
     
  28. playin' hookie
    Joined: Mar 27, 2004
    Posts: 188

    playin' hookie
    Member

    So I was a bit bored today, I may have adult automotive ADD cause I didn't feel like working on the chop today but wanted to keep things moving along so I decided to shift gears a bit and fix something that bugs me about these cars. That hood that seems to walk around with it's nose in the air.



    Time to pancake the hood. Here's a shot of the nose in question.

    [​IMG]



    So I started by stripping the paint off the areas I'm going to be working. Then ran a couple tape lines, the top of the tape was an important one because it marked a body line.

    [​IMG]

    I wanted to stay as close to the bottom edge and angle it back. So I marked the bottom line, 1/4" up from the bottom of the hood and ran it across the front trying to stay as close to the flattest portion possible.

    [​IMG]

    I then marked up 1" at the leading edge of the section to be removed then needed to calculate the increments of the cut line bacl. Basically I divided the height 1" by the length of the cut. This told me how much of a rise every inch the top cut line would be. I multiplied this by 8 then marked every eight inches up from my bottom line the progression then joined the lines with my flexible ruler. Sounds more complicated then it was but good lesson for the kids at our dinner table. Stay in school, you need math!

    [​IMG]

    Ok, so I drilled a starter hole at the front of the hood then cut back on the bottom line on one side. then I cut out the top portion. Moving to the other side I left a big section in place at the front to keep it from falling onto itself while making the long cuts.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Then removed the remaining section at the front. I put in a couple of chisels in place to support it while doing this.

    [​IMG]

    Now at this point I need to get things buttoned back together but I was concerned that if any of the cut lines were uneven (even though they looked pretty good) that it would pull the bottom edge of the hood up creating an uneven gap so I tacked some spacers to the hood sides and the bottom portion of the hood to lock it in place, then brought the top of the hood down to meet. tack along the edge until you reach the "overbite".

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Obviously can'l live with that. So a few releif cuts will help, I sort of feel my way along to see what area's are under tension and make a mark to run a line. I cut along each side of the peak at the front nose to really loosen this part up so I could work it into place. A couple extra relief cuts were needed to get things moved into place.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    A bit of steady, EASY persuasion and everything comes together. Need to run some welds obviously but this is what she looks like all tacked together.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And this is how she looks after todays work.

    [​IMG]
     
  29. captainjunk#2
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,420

    captainjunk#2
    Member

    i like it , some thing different , and watching you dice this thing up and improve the lines and shape is awesome , good job and a great looking project
     
  30. playin' hookie
    Joined: Mar 27, 2004
    Posts: 188

    playin' hookie
    Member

    Thanks Captain, it's been a fun one so far. Looking forward to carrying this one along over the next few months.
     

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