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Need advice on turbo 350 leak

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by GARY T., Feb 25, 2011.

  1. GARY T.
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,985

    GARY T.
    Member
    from S.W. Pa

    I have a leak,first thought it was pan gasket--changed it,put new o-rings on fill tube and kickdown cable. Still have the leak,found out it is intermediate clutch accumulator area that is leaking (probably a bad o-ring??) However I have a frame brace that is very close to that area and don't have room to work there,and don't really want to pull tranny. I have a drain plug on my pan,if I drain the fluid and clean the area where its leaking real good with brake cleaner or acetone is there anykind of sealant that I could put there (maybe an epoxy or something) to stop the leak? Is there any pressure in that area when running?
    Thanks
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,071

    squirrel
    Member

    if you remove the rear mount and driveshaft, can you drop the back of the trans down to work on it?

    You need to remove the cover and replace the O ring.
     
  3. GARY T.
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,985

    GARY T.
    Member
    from S.W. Pa

    Never did that before--is much involved?--not the tranny drop-down---I mean replacing the O-ring
     
  4. kcl
    Joined: Nov 10, 2010
    Posts: 12

    kcl
    Member
    from maryland

    Gary

    Not that much problem to replace the o-ring. There is a hole in the case at the accumlator bore you can stick a small punch in there and get the snap ring started out then pry it out the rest of the way with a screwdriver.
    Pop the cover out and get the spring out also. Most likely the spring is broke
    which caused the leak in the first place.If the spring is broken replace it along
    with the o-ring. STP makes a good lube. Use a large screwdriver and a socketand push the cover back in, if you have help have them hold the screwdriver
    while you put the snap ring back in. If you cut or fold the o-ring while going
    in it will let you know a soon as the tranny goes to second gear. best to change the o-ring instead of trying to seal it from the outside because the pressure in the bore will just cause it to leak again.

    Hope this helps

    kcl
     

  5. Couple things to remember .... yes, you can remove the trans x-member (if yours is removable) and just lower the trans while leaving the engine sitting in its mounts, but (assuming Chev engine) you probably need to remove the dist (don't want it to hit the firewall) and also be careful that your fan (assuming engine driven) doesn't hit the rad. Also a good idea to unbolt the headers at the collector (or exhaust manifolds). Might need to remove/unbolt your shifter too.
     
  6. maniac
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 539

    maniac
    Member

    I usually put a little trans fluid on the new o-ring before I put it in, otherwise all good advice so far.
     
  7. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,538

    badshifter
    Member

    Speaking from first hand experience, fix it right the first time. The time it takes to MAYBE patch it, or prolong it would be time better spent fixing it right.
     
  8. GARY T.
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,985

    GARY T.
    Member
    from S.W. Pa

    Well the spring was OK,just needed O-ring---Tranny shop guy lent me a tool to install it with---looks homade,but he said not. just hook the little dog under the pan lip push everything in ,tighen the thumb screw go have a beer and then put the snapring in----really cool tool!
    Thanks for all the help & advice
    Gary
     

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  9. kcl
    Joined: Nov 10, 2010
    Posts: 12

    kcl
    Member
    from maryland

    Glad it was an easy fix for you

    kcl
     
  10. GARY T.
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,985

    GARY T.
    Member
    from S.W. Pa

    Won't know if it leaks for a month or so---have other stuff tore apart:eek:
     

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