Projects Cut open a new chrome windshield frame and what did I find?

Rust is not exactly what I wanted to see.

 

pour some POR15 in it!! I wouldn't have thought they'd laid around long enough to rust??

 

its just over a month old.

thinking about the por thing. this thing sux and I dont wanna do another one for it in a couple years.

 

por15 may work...I'd be more inclined to use fishoilene...will creep into the seams where you need it a bit better than por15.. either way may make it a bitch to reweld

 

yeah we are trying to get by without welding on it,,

I should also mention that the reason I had to cut it was it was 1/4" wider than a stock windshield frame and didn't fit in the hole.

It was nap time....

I'm gonna try and make up a stainless cover for the top seam, really really not wanting to rechrome this thing.

 

I've seen similar stuff inside chrome parts before.always assumed that if it was virgin metal,something about the chemicals used in plating made the unplated parts rust.One example is chrome bike frames often are rusty inside.I guess the chemicals will migrate all through the part,but the chrome won't.
Or your windshield frame started life as rusty steel,and they only cared about the visible pieces.

 

I've heard cat piss will rust anything......

 

good to see the cats resting after their labors. i had three who helped w/ my coupe in my profile. they have been memorialized by etching in each qtr win and name on gas tank! they were a nusiance and company!

 

Spray some WD-40 in it.

 

It's definitely to do with the chroming process - the bath it goes into has some corrosive chemicals in it.

 

I wouldn't have expected anything other than what you found.

 

Maybe you could soak a cloth in some 'rust converter' stuff and pull it through with a wire.

 

POR is not a good idea because it won't creep into all the barnacles of loose rust. It will make it rust more IMO. Like was said, some sort of oil product or maybe wax based stuff.

 

Do you plan on leaving the car sitting outside in the weather, unused, for a few decades? if not, then don't worry about it.

 

stop worrying about shit Jay-O... it'll be just fine. personally, looking at the thickness of the steel, i'd say it would take 50 years to rust through that steel. make a center clip molding like you said, then when you're ready to re-assemble, use some urethane sealer just like the stuff for glass on it. that will keep the weather out of the inside.

larry wont let it sit out in the weather anyhow, other that at an event or just out in the rain

T

 

Mousemilk it.
Its used to free up turbos on aircraft,, it will stop that rust in its tracks.
Ive used it on bare steel and come back to it months later with out it continuing on.
probably trapped in a frame with no real way for moisture to get to it once sealed up..you'll never have to worry in your life time
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/mousemilkoil.php

 

Well Lookie there, you must have found your password.

It's good to see you back Bud, I for one have missed your wit and knowledge.

Welcome back (Traves) Fiddy Four.

BB

 

My cats are just as much help..

 

Use WAXOYL.....

 

must have been that fishoilene.

 

It's because the steel they use for repop stuff is no good, I have had orig ford steel bare in my shop for a year and it doesn't rust, my 32 frame wAsent a week old and it looks like it was dunked in the ocean, the shot they use has no alloys in it,

 

Yep, it'll last ME a lifetime!!! BUT, da tinman won't let it slide, that's just the way he is.

Another issue is two stock frames (with Henry tolerances) both fit in the hole, but the USA-made repop is ¼" off.... they must use chinese rulers!

 

My cats have never lied to me, stole from me, given me any shit (outside their box) or given me grief, unlike some "friends", family and co-workers.

 

Is it made in China? It's very humid there and they will leave stuff laying outside on a dock or in a parking lot in the rain unless you make them do otherwise. They will always take the shortest, most cost effective route. Also, if there is not a drain hole somewhere the chroming process will leave funky residue that corrodes like that.

 

With the cleaning process before chroming you use some very caustic cleaners, that stuff gets everywhere. I have had some parts chromed that were hollow but welded completely shut and the chrome shop told me to pick where I wanted the hole drilled so that everything can drain out. Just passing on what I was told.

 

yea, i know it. thats one of the reasons he's just so damn lovable.

he was telling a couple of us about it, said it was off by WAY too much, least 1/4" is kinda too much in my opinion

 

Quit goffin around!

 

I don't know if this helps but it would be worth a shot maybe?

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=501717&highlight=vinegar

 

I hate you... LOL

I came up with this to cover the seam in the center, it'll get chromed to match the rest.













Hopefully get the top drilled and tapped tomorrow so I can make it all one piece. Then I can get it polished to the right shape, still gonna knock the edges off so its more like the lower corners.

Not sure about the rust, it would probably be ok, but I dont like the idea of it being there this fast.

 

same here, i was expecting to see pitcure of money or cocaine ina baggey or something. this is 2011.not 1957 lol