So its cold and snowy up here in the northeast and I am finding myself staring at my roadster with its 1937 21 stud flathead truck motor (dual slinger crank). I want to do a quick refresh on it this winter, probably not a complete rebuild because it really doesnt need it. My question is about aluminum heads... Does anybody make a finned head new for this motor? and if they do, do I have to take out a large loan?? Also, If I was to find "stock" aluminum heads for a 21 stud in good condition, what modifications would I need to do to use them (if any), and will any 21 stud (center water inlet) set of heads fit this block?? Thanks for any input, guys, and we all love pictures!
I'm not sure who still makes new 21 Stud heads (with a center outlet), but you might try Don Orosco - I think he is making Eddie Meyer heads, though I don't know the water outlet configurations he can supply. If you find a nice set of center outlet heads -- aluminum or anything else, they should work. Just make sure they are not rotted out or have been milled too many times. You can just look at the size of the piston dome cutout and see if it is about the same as your heads. One thing to note: Make sure that whatever 21 stud heads you select, that they have the correct piston dome styles to match your engine. My guess is that you have domed pistons . . . though I've seen flattops in some engines. And yes - any set of new 21 stud aluminum heads are going to cost yah One thing to think about: If you start wanting to put real money into that engine - like new heads, etc . . . and are going to rebuild it, I'd "upgrade" to a later 24 stud variety. You can reuse a lot of the bolt-on parts (water pumps, intake, distributor, etc) - and it will be a lot cheaper in the long run!
Yaaa, my ultimate goal is to have a higher power, later model flathead to go in the roadster, but for now maybe a few hop-ups without breaking the bank on what I know is a great motor!
Then maybe just mill the heads a bit and put a cam, headers and ignition in it. Without a lot of work, you can add another 25 horsepower and have a bit more fun as well. I can't tell if you have a 2-carb intake -- if not, add that to the mix!
As far as I can tell you can still buy most of the mainstream stuff made brand new. You can start with Edelbrock and work out from there.
**I'm not sure who still makes new 21 Stud heads (with a center outlet),** (Quote) Baron-Tattersfield. They've been available for 15 years: John ----- (can't remember his last name!) reproduces them. They are cast in San Jose, then shipped to John in South San Francisco: Early Times members know John. My friend Bill Franks is his neighbor. I'll see if I can find out for you. Not cheap, though...
Hi slick willy, steve from the cape.Do u ever make it to the cape cod canal on tuesdays for cruise night at the tech school?They have good turnouts .THere was 854 cars on dashplaque night not to shabby .
hi steve! I used to get there quite a bit but not so much this past summer, hopefully more this summer! Anybody got the facts on the aluminum (canadian?) heads?
I'll be there with the trk got it last may got it on road in oct. Missedthe summer but will be there soon hope to meet ya! Have you been to that hotrod shop in plymouth exit 5 i think they had some cool stuff they were building?
Ive seen their work but I havent been to their shop..come on over to the mass hambers user group for more local goings on!
Like BS said, if it were mine and I didn't want to spend a bunch of cash, I'd mill the heads, install headers, cam, ignition upgrade and drive it! Like any engine hop up, it's not the one big thing you do, it's the twenty little things that really add up to seat-of-the-pants difference. I just installed adjustable lifters in my roadster <finally!> and working on that engine has got my juices flowing. Time to start another flathead project!
20? How about three! I get the overall idea of it, right now Im just measuring time vs money vs springtimes arrival...knowing me as well as I do I will probably leave it be and just drive it the way it is. I love the look of my motor, so I dont really want to put on an electronic ignition or headers or an electric fuel pump for more carbs.... at this point I may save pennies for a done up 8ba or 59ab. If I were to go with a mild cam and aluminum heads what would i be looking at for performance gain?
Buddy and I worked on his duece with a 38 flatty, and it had the 3 C's Cam,Carb,and Compression, ran sweet. But from what i,ve learned since I,ve been on the HAMB. I would first attack your ignition, which means professional distributor rebuild, or purchase new. The rest would be compression, carb and tuning. You will need to investigate on each upgrade. It will definitely respond.
I'm not 100% sure, but I think CYCLONE and EVANS had 37/38 style finned heads in their product line back then. I sold a set of pre war french Matford heads to a guy in England while ago thru the HAMB.
A lot of the questions you are asking, with a lot of the answers you are getting, is why I decided to forgo my 21 stud for a 24 stud. In the end I guess it didn't matter as I am running non finned aluminum heads anyway, but I am happier with the '38 that I ended up with, and saved the '37 for the restored car.
Ya, ive been waiting for the "put a small block in it" comments... I was able to locate and procure two n.o.s aluminum heads (non-canadian). Once I get all the parts and pieces lined up Ill tear into it and see what I can do... worse case scenario, I put it right back the way it was and keep driving it!
With a 21 stud motor you are only really limited on head choice over an earlier 24 stud block. A sound 21 stud in good tune will run rings around a ropey 8BA with expensive bits bolted on. Be different and stick with it. It will run a whole lot better with that second carb opened up for starters. Rich
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