Did they supply instructions with that kit? I used a Kwik Wire kit on my 64 C10. Here's the instructions. Pretty clear, with Diagrams. http://www.kwikwire.com/DocDownloads/Kwik Wire Instruction Book.pdf You'll figure it out.
Ok, theres 3 wires for tail lights. Brown= tail or running lamp, Yellow= Left/stop, Green= Right/stop. Use a test lamp to see if power is getting back there, if so it may only be a bad ground.
there is no ground at the tail lights, these are chepo trailer lights that are plastic. Ive got rear blinkers. but thats it.
If you have blinkers theres some type of ground going on. Should be from mounting bracket if its steel. Back to what you said. Could be a bad turnsignal swith or brake swtich. Test brake switch first, see if power is present, slide plug back just enough so you can touch terminal with test light. If good, then its possibly the turn switch. Is it the original and did it work ok before?
Forgot to say, push on brake pedal and see if terminal that white wire is connected to gets power out of it.
new brake sw and if i press down it gets power out of it. Turn signal switch is in a 72 van column. Im not sure of its been repalced. If i have blinkers, its good right?
your EZ kit should have two Brake wires one is orange and one is white. the orange should say brake pwr and the white should say brake light. or visa versa plug those two to your light switch and hook up your tail lights properly and everything should be ok. I use these kits at my shop and they are fairly fool proof I also have one in my 51 and one in my moms 56 handyman wagon, and for the money you can't go wrong with them
Not really, turnsignal switchs can lose any one of its functions. When the turn switch in the center position it make contact with the white from brake switch and the yellow and green to make brake lights work. This portion is none to go bad. Thats why I've asked you to test yellow and green wire when pushing on brake pedal. Sent you a PM
Another harp on the ground.....pickup trucks....ground the bed to the frame...Personally I ground the living dog piss outta everything... Mine usually go as follows, Ground from frame to cab, cab to engine, engine to frame then bed to frame and bed to cab....hey if your gonna kill it, overkill it....(never had ground problems though) Tailights....usually on a plastic type trailer light there is a ground wire....you'll have to manually wire the ground... And another personal note, I've had horrible luck with hyd. brake light switches, every one that I've used (in hot rod applications) has been a worthless bag of douch...ripped em out and replaced it with a micro switch, or a micro paddle switch actuated off of the pedal (or plunger) whichever is easier....just my preference
On my chevy c30, I also have what you would refer to as "cheap plastic trailer lights" for tail lights. They are grounded through the mounting bolts to the frame. In other words...no ground wire to the frame. They work fine.
ok, i took apart the turn signal switch and put it back together and now i have brake lights, hi and low beams, blinkers but NO RUNNING LIGHTS still. everthing is grounded everywhere also now. Also anyone have any idea how to wire up the stock gauges. they have the old circuit board on them and i have a diagram for them but even how they work makes no since at all to me. I even used a battery charger and powered everything on and it all works, but i dont know how to wire them. It needs regular gauges but its not my truck.
Doing a good job there by just reading. You surely have some understanding because most people would not have gone this far with the results you have so quickly. As far as the gauges, whats it have for charging? Amp Meter, Volt Meter or Gen "idiot light"?. A pic of the back of the panel would help.
It has turn signals and dash lights only and the only electric gauge is the fuel gauge. It does not have a volt meter yet, but i can handle that. And here is the headlight sw. The red is 12v and the onlything that get hot is the light blue "dimmer" the greyish brown to the right is the running lights and they never get hot. 1967 c10 switch
I'm going to list GM color code for the dash cluster only, because pic has some shading and glare issues that make some wires look like they have a white stripe. Top 6 should be.....Pink=Ing, Dark Green=Temp, Dark Blue=Oil, Light Green=High Beam, Gray=Inst. Lamps, Tan=Fuel (not sure on that one, it looks brown, but tan is for fuel) Lower 3 should be.....Light Blue=L.H. Turn Lamp, Dark Blue=R.H. Turn Lamp, Brown=Gen Lamp (not sure again here because of pic, but since its clustered with the front turn signal I'm assuming thats what it is)
Thanks but ive got a diagram for it but its odd how the wiring works. I would share a wire for 3 seperate things but somehow it would work differnt for them, not a common hot. IDK its very confusing.
Thats because the printed board distributes the pink to all the idiot lamps and gauges. Its the oil, temp, fuel, gen. that tells the lamp to light. Same goes for the gray for dash lamps, they branch out. If you take a moment and look at the print on the board you'll see what i'm refering to.
If your hl switch is the same as 71 c10 it has 8 terminals. It requires 2 battery feeds The left rear feeds th tail lights. you can use the same wire just go to both terminals.
So how would i make just the fuel gauge and signals work on the gauge? I have a wire going from the sending unit up to the gauge, i have singal wires and i have a ign on hot wire. Got everything else done, just the stupid gauges. Thanks a lot guys, I couold not have gotten it done this quick without the help.
Not following you very well here. Are you testing the panel out of the dash? Also is that one wire that goes staight up in the photo black? Fuel gauge needs 3 things to work.....the sender wire, ing wire and panel needs to be grounded. Thats why I asked about a black wire. If the panel is missing the ground connection the signals indicators won't work either. Hope this is what it is. Adding Info.....Just looked at a diagram for printed board dash (not your application, but it's Chevy) and it does have a black wire for grounding all lamps and gauges.
the black is ground, so i should ground it, pink goes to sending unit and whatever the other one that leads to the gauge i sould have 12v ign?
ok, electrical system looks and works as if it just came from the factory EXCEPT for when I try to start it, it cranks but a little over asecond, it slanks, stops and i can see the fan bounce back the opposite way. I started it the other day with no issues,but i must have jacked up something.
battery is good and installed correctly. I have changed nothing since i last started it. All i did was cover and zip tie the wires.
Is the distributor loose ? you may have bumped it. You said fan bumped back the other way. Timing maybe, sounds like it's advanced if it did move.
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