I've searched quite a while and if there is one listed somewhere, I can't find it. I'm needed a diagram from shop manual for a shoebox Ford. I have a '49 coupe and I'm in the process of yanking the master cylinder out and doing a full brake job. This was my first time doing this on a shoebox and have found out the hard way that this clutch/brake pedal shaft through the master cylinder, assembly mess that they used in these cars is kind of a pain. I took it apart but now I'm not sure if I can rember the way for it to all go back. (I do this type of thing on occasion). Anyone have detailed pics of their brake pedal assembly in their shoebox or a scan of the shop manual that shows all this going back together?? Thanks as usual!
I did find this report I did, after I changed mine.. See if this helps while I'm digging... R&R master Cylinder on my 49 Ford Tudor Sedan Bear with me, I’m trying to visualize what I did… This is just the order I did it in, not the rule!!! Tools needed: open\ box end wrenches handy, ½” up to 7/8” ( I think) Brake line wrenches. Grease, 2 sm cans brake fluid. I had a ballpeen hammer, but I don’t recall using it. Rags up the whowho… Couple sm stright screw drivers along with a large one, To help with the springs and removing the clutch peddle. 2 jack stands. Quart Lamp or shop light. Flashlight Floor jack or strong scissors jack. Music of choice, Beverage, I only drank water,,,(until I was done) Block of wood to stick under the rear wheel. Remember safety, I also had my wife come out and make sure I was still cussing, I feel one person, semi-mech inclined can do this, the only special tool would be the brake line wrenches.. I just used the basic tools. 1. Purchase Parts : I got 1- New Master, 1-Rubber Boot and 2-Bushings for the Brake Peddle, along with 2- 12” Brake Lines (For Bench Bleeding) 2- small cans of Brake Fluid. 2. I removed the Carpet, exposing the Brake Access Hole in the Drivers Floor. 3. I jacked the car up just aft of the LF Wheel, about 18-24” high (that s all my jack could push… Then secured with a jack stand front and back. I also but a block under the rear wheel. 4. I used a quart lap on the floor and had a flashlight ready for the few times I needed. 5. Crawl underneath, have your open\ box end wrenches handy, ½” up to 7/8” 6. Remove the Clutch spring. 7. Remove the nut and bolt that holds the clutch peddle to the equalizer shaft (located on the outside of the frame). 8. Remove the big bolt on the bellhousing, holding the pivot to the equalizer rod. There are 2 washers and a felt grease washer here. (look at where the steel washers are in relation to the felt washer… 9. Remove the Brake spring. 10. Notice or mark, where the clutch adjustment rod is, then back off the 2 nuts, 2-3 in. 11. I removed the 2 bolts holding the Master to the frame. 12. At this time I tagged the brake light switch wires and removed them from the brake light switch on the rear of the Master. 13. Removing the 2 master cyl bolts allows you to take the equalizer shaft , up a bit and towards the inside of the car, to remove the clutch peddle (pull the peddle off the shaft first) Then the rectangular part of the eq should drop off along with the return rod. Then you should have clearance to pull the eq shaft out. It will take some wiggling. (NOTE: I have headers and duals on my flatty) 14. You should now have room to carefully loosen the 2 brake lines attached to the back of the Master. Don’t break these bad boys. 15. There is a “C” clip on the outside of the brake rod, where it pivots on the end of the master., that will take some creative screwdriver work to remove, be careful not to bend it too bad, I could not find a listing for a new one. You should now be able to remove the brake peddle arm. 16. If I recall, that’s about all there was…from the time I put the car in the garage, till removing the master, was about 1 hr, including fiddiling with not having all my wrenches handy.. 17. I then used a craftsmen workbench that clamps, to hold the new master. 18. I put the 2 - 12” brake lines on, and bent them in a position to stick into a almost full can of fresh brake fluid. I then filled the master, put the cap on, and was able to pump the master enough to force the air out. I did this several time, and kept checking the fluid level in the master. When no more bubbles showed up in the can, I removed the brake lines. 19. I had bought 2 new bushings, and they seems loose, but I slobbered them up with grease, put them in. 20. Then crawl your butt back under the car, take the master with you… 21. I hooked up the brake lines, because of space. Then started by reinstalling the clutch eq shaft back through, and just sliding on the clutch peddle. Then reinstalling the rectangular eq brackets with washers and felt washer. Don’t forget the clutch adj rod too. 22. Then reassemble, hook the springs up, don’t forget that “C” clip on the brake piviot. 23. Hook up the brake lights…throw away any parts you could not figure where they went, (JUST KIDDING!!!) 24. Make sure your adjust the clutch before you crawl out. 25. Top off the brake fluid. 26. Before you drop it down, check to see if the peddle is nice and hard, and that you also have brake lights. 27. Do the happy dance if all went well. 28. Curse me if it did not… Keep in mind, this is just how I remember I did it, I did not write it down, so I could be off..And also remember, I have headers and duals too. Like I said in my eairler post, 4 hrs start to test drive. Including a 30 min trip to pep boys for the brake lines.
I scaned the Pic on page 139 PM me, I'll email mail it to you, it's 1.6 mg file, maybe you can enlarge it.
Hold down on the control key while using the scroll on the mouse and you can enlarge the photos. I am in the process of doing this to my 50. Just finished rebuilding my master cylinder last night.
Tierod...Thanks a million for everything!! I just got it all replaced!! I appreciate your help!! Now I could do one of these in about 1/4 of the time. It actually all went together pretty easily. Again...thank you for the help!!!
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