Anyone build a homemade 4 link

Has anyone built a homemade 4 link here?

 

Seriously?

Did you een think about a search? Oh well. Don't bother. I'll spill the beans.

We all go to the 4-link store and buy them ready made. You can get em for any car. Even race cars and hotrods with homemade frames. They have one for anything!

 

Use the bushed ends like from Pete and Jake. There are weld on and threaded types. Thread your 1" tubing 3/4 16. 3/16ths for your brackets.

 

We do both, go to the "4 link store", usually Chassis Eng. or build em ourselves. I have a "homebuilt" triangulated 4 link under Pat's 49/50/51 shoebox.

M.

 

You can do it yourself...but with the cost of a kit from competition engineering or one of the others...its almost not worth it. I've done both...but it just depends on what I'm doing

 

Thanks guys. I did a search earlier but couldn't find specifics. I know a lot of people bought theirs from http://www.suicidedoors.com/. Good to find other online stores also.

Thanks guys

 

Here is the best I can tell you when putting

 

Sorry, Must have bumped the button..here goes again;

Here is the best I can tell you when putting tegether a triangulated 4 link. Im actually building one for my 64 "PSYCLONE" Project very soon as well.Here goes;

Here are a few basics to keep in mind as you do your reading

Roll Center Height: If you have one pair of angled links, the roll center height will be located at the virtual intersection of the two angled links. From a practical standpoint, with this design, you want to get this as low as possible. The Morrison designs put the upper, angled links at the height of the axle housing, which is better than most such designs which put brackets on top of the housing (unacceptable, IMO). Even better, as suggested by Herb Adams, is to make the lower links the angled pair, but this is more difficult to pull off from a structural and packaging standpoint.

Side View Swing Arm and Roll Steer: Viewing the suspension from the side, imagine extending the upper and lower links until they intersect in space. The line from this point to the center of the axle is the SVSA. The angle that this SVSA forms with the roll axis is important, because it determines whether you will have roll understeer, oversteer, neutral steer. If the SVSA is angled upward toward the front, you will have roll oversteer, which will make your car unpredictable and twitchy on turn-in. Some amount of roll understeer is generally considered desireable, but there are tradeoffs between achieving this and keeping the instant center higher to get more anti-squat. Also, keep in mind that the shorter the SVSA is, the more likely you are to suffer from brake hop.

Instant Center and Anti-Squat: The intersection of the upper and lower links in the side view, as described above, is the instant center. Draw a line from the point of the rear contact patch through this instant center, and find the intersection point with a horizontal line at the height of the center of gravity of the car. If this intersection point occurs forward of the front contact patch, you have less than 100% anti-squat, if it occurs between the contact patches, you have more than 100% anti-squat. Some amount of anti-squat is desirable, to help the car hook up on acceleration out of the corners. Just how much you want is debated, but if you can get close to 100% AS while still having roll understeer, you're doing pretty well.

Link Length: The shorter the links are, the more all of these parameters will change as the suspension moves, and the greater the chance that the suspension will start to bind up to a significant degree. From a practical standpoint, it's hard to have links that are too long.

Getting the optimum balance of all these parameters - even knowing what the optimum balance is, and what it feels like to the driver - is what makes suspension design hard. Build some adjustability in, for sure.

Thanks; Total Perf-

 

You mean like this one? Nope I doubt anyone ever has.

 

Back in 1979 when I built my Model A pickup truck I looked at the Pete & Jake catalog and saw the 4 bars and having no money i built my own using Impala sway bars and cut one end of each to the P&J specification.

I then threaded the cut end and picked up 4 female rod ends from Speedway and fabricated the brackets for attaching to the frame and rear axle,,I had a lotta time and no money ,,finished product was about 60 bucks as I recall. HRP

 

And what ifn your 4-bars, front and rear, are parallel? Gary

 

if he did you would not have anything to bitch about... so be thankful....

 

4 link store .com

 

www.4linkstore.com

there fixed it for ya.

 

I am doing it with some old 35 bones callin it triangulated 4 bones on the 27 T project

 

Sounds cool, post pics.