Lexan is a Sabic (formerly GE) trade name for Polycarbonate. Plexiglass is acrylic. They are not the same family and have very different intended use.
We use alot of polycarbonate sheet in my industry...and we do some pretty cool stuff with it. Here's my $.02 worth: I'd echo; for long term use in a car that you drive regularly...it sucks! Here are some other reasons I'd offer for your consideration: 1. While it is incredibly break and puncture resistant...even a typical paper towel will scratch it (use a microfibre towel, it's your only hope). 2. It should not be "locked" in position (I mean screwed, riveted, or forced in a fixed position with clamps, clips and/or non flexible adhesives) as it expands and contracts to the extreme (with temperature change). It has to be somewhat "free" to do so or it can break fasteners and/or itself as it swells and shrinks. 3. Don't even think about exposing it to any petroleum distillate...hell, even heavy fumes of gasoline, laquer thinner, etc will fog polycarbonate. But, if you insist on using it and you wanna really nice edge...make a jig/pattern out of plywood and use it as a router guide...or call a local sign shop with a cnc router to help you...it'll leave a factory-like edge. I would offer one more piece of advice if you're gonna use polycarbonate in place of auto glass: Install it so that it can be changed easily and frequently...'cause you're gonna want to! Hope this helps... at least a little.
When drilling Lexan do you have to change the cutting angle of your drill bit like you do for plexi or will a drill bit for steel or wood do the trick without chipping?
Ok, if Lexan expans and contracts.Can a person make a rear sliding truck window(none made for my Ranchero and the metal trim might look out of place). The proper glue for making runners would be? Any Ideas.Thanks Ken N.
man, i never knew that this stuff was so complex, i'm thinking plexiglass.... but i really appreciate the responce and as usual learned a lot BT
I assume it's a flat piece of glass for the car in your aviatar. Why not just get a piece of laminate GLASS cut at a local glass shop and do it correctly? The cost is very minimal if you furnish a cardboard pattern ($20-30). Stu
I've even used a table saw or a circular saw for straight cuts. Someone mentioned a fine blade, and tape the back side. I tape both sides if I'm making a window it just keeps it from chipping. Its pretty easy to cut, nothing like glass.
Not only can it be bent and cut by the various methods mentioned, it can be nailed without pre-drilling, close to it's edge without cracking.
This has been mentioned a few times " blade flipped over backwards " I know I'm a bit slow but what does this mean ? I assume put the blade in upside down ?
I use a table saw with a carbide blade, I set the blade height at material thickness + 1/8" more. Carbide doesn't heat up like steel so I've never had a problem with it heating up and melting. Regular band saws work well too. Bob
We cut this stuff every day on a table saw, use a combination blade as the deep gullets will clear the waste more effectively .Too fine of a blade will not have a chance to clear the waste and cause gumming up/ heat/gumming up.We cut 1/16 to 1 1/4 and even punch louvers in the thinner stuff . Some of the lads have taken samples to the range and blasted the thicker stuff with rifles and hand guns...great product..in the right application
You don't have to FLIP a blade;just go down to the hardware store(or wherever you buy your stuff)and get a blade that is made specifically to cut LAMINATES.The teeth cut in the opposite direction from the normal wood cutting blades.They are inexpensive;the last ones I bought were 2 for $1.99.I use them in a hand-held sabre saw using the higher of the two speeds available and do not use a hard or fast feed.I use tape on one side to draw the cut lines and I have a piece of duct tape on the bottom of my sabre saw to minimize the surface scratching. Using this procedure the blade does not clog and the material does not re-fuse.The edges are reasonably smooth but if you want a polished edge,use either sandpaper(I start with 150 grit and finish with 320 wet-or-dry)or a small propane torch.
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