I am wiring up the 34 and made a diagram and key to go by. It uses early 60's ford colors mostly, except for wipers (MG) and main power(GM). I just like doing electrical stuff myself is why I'm making mine instead of going with Rebel or Painless. Just like the satisfaction of creating as much of my stuff myself. If you are the same way Rhode Island Wire as previously mentioned on the H.A.M.B. is good source for special colored wires and other oem type supplies. Has no heater, electric gauges, A/C, power windows or locks it is bare bones. Not perfect because I don't create diagrams for a living but should be a good start for wiring your hot rod yourself. GY/B – Gray/Black 12ga – Accessories From Ign Switch to Fuse Block G – Green 16ga – Brake Light Switch Out to Turn Signal LG/R – Light Green/Red 16ga -Brake Light Power BL/O – Black/Orange 10ga - Ignition from Ign Switch to Fuse Block R/BL – Red/Blue 14ga – Crank Ign switch to Solenoid R/G – Red/Green 16ga – Fuse block to coil B+ Y/B – Yellow/Black 14ga – A Post Reg to A post Gen B/Y – Black/Yellow 12ga - B+ Main Bus Junction (Power Block) W – White 14ga – F post Reg to F post Gen (Field) B/R – Black/Red 14ga – G post Reg to G post Gen (ground?) B/O – Black/Orange 12ga – Headlight circuit breaker to Headlight switch main input LB/R – Light Blue/Red 14ga – Headlight switch to Dash lights R/Y – Red/Yellow 14ga – Headlight switch to head light relay B – Black 16ga – Headlight Switch to taillights/taglight LG/Y – Light Green Yellow 18ga – Fuse Block to Headlight Switch Courtesy input B/Y – Black/Yellow 18ga – Headlight switch to front park lights G/B – Green/Black 18 ga – Dimmer switch to high beam indicator R – Red 10ga – Headlight circuit breaker to headlight relay B/BL – Black/Blue 16ga - Headlight Switch to dome. G/B – Green Black 14ga – Dimmer Switch to High beam lights R/B – Red/Black 14ga – Dimmer Switch to Low beam lights Y/G – Yellow/Green 16ga – Horn relay to horn B/R – Black/ Red 14ga - Horn Switch to Horn relay Y – Yellow 12ga – Fuse box to Horn relay LB – Light Blue 16ga – Flasher to turn signal switch LG/R – Light Green/Red 16ga – Fuse block to Fuel gauge Y – Yellow 16ga – Fuel gauge to sending unit P – Pink 8ga – Solenoid B+ to Main Bus Junction and Fusible link G/O – Green/Orange 14ga – Turn signal switch to left turn O/BL – Orange/Blue 14ga – Turn signal switch to left turn W/B – White/Blue 18ga – Turn Signal switch to right turn indicator G/W – Green/White 18ga – Turn signal switch to left turn indicator W/R – White/Red 14ga – Fuse block to turn signal flasher L/B – Light Blue 12ga – Fuse block to Wiper motor Y – Yellow 12ga – Wiper Switch to wiper motor LG – Light Green – Ground Block to Wiper Switch G – Green 16ga – Tach to coil B/R – Black/Red – Fuse Block to tach G/W – Green/White 16ga – Left front turn signal W/B – White/Blue 16ga – Right front turn signal W – White 16ga – Ignition Bypass from starter solenoid to output dide of resistor
Great plan. Do you have the individual pieces so that you can run from terminal/source out to the furthest point without splice ie: the pins and assemblies to make a lamp pigtail? Did you get taht from Rhode Island Wire?
Whoops, I think you left out the ignition resistor bypass wire during cranking..... Runs between the coil and starter solenoid, othewise, great job. This way you have the choice of the wire you are using, instead of what is supplied in the kits. Of course I just got done wiring my hot rod and could have used this. Thanks for posting.
Thats the way I'm doing it. Rhode Island has them, yes. I also have terminals and crimpers for plugs (headlight, wipers, etc.) All loop and slide terminals will be soldered and heatshrinked. Everything externally will be wrapped in asphalt cloth loom. Used to wire up crash trucks for company i worked for that did frame ups for the military. One of my favorite jobs I had. Very challenging at first. had a 3 1/2 diameter wire bundle that went to the rear and a 2 foot by 8in fuse box. Made boards to layout harnesses, after that got sort of montinous.
Fixed it and reposted. I am running Ignitor with 1.5 coil. Pertronix said it doesn't need a resistor with 1.5 ohm coil so i will omit the resistor entirely on mine.
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