Every (almost) thread I read about cam break-in says to have the timing set before you start the engine so it will start right away. How is this done with a newly rebuilt engine? Even if you drop the distributor in the correct cam gear tooth there's no guarantee it's turned in the exact number of degrees until you time it with the light. What am I missing?
roll teh motor over till #1 is top dead center with both valves closed,, then rotate crank till you have the pointer on your static timing mark. Drop in dizzy, and turn on ignition, rotate dizzy till you get a spark from the #1 cyl. lock it down. its ready to run. This will get you close enough to do the initial run in on your cam and check for leaks.
O.K., now I understand my confusion. The last sentence in your explanation is the key for me. I have done this in the past but find I always have to nail it with the light which I do as soon as the engine starts. Guess I'm too particular to run the rpm's up til it's perfect. This is my forth engine rebuild and the first with a performance cam. Thanks Tinman
From your other post today. Guess my explaination was too confusing for someone who has rebuilt 4 engines. Roll it up on TDC then move your engine until the timming mark lines up with about 10 degrees. Drop your dizzy in so that the rotor lines up with the #1 spark terminal on the cap. Wire it and fire it. Once your cam is broken in you can worry about getting your timming and tune exact.
A circuit test light works for me. Ignition on, hook the clip to the hot wire and stab the distributor post with the pointy bit. Turn the dist. the opposite direction that the rotor turns.When the light goes out, that's when it fires.
Uh I have done that. Also hung onto the ground for an old jeep mag while my cousin spun it with a drill. You know what they say stupidity should hurt.
Da Tinman<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_6114065", true); </SCRIPT> & porknbeaner Now that is Funny as FUCK !
porknbeaner After all i'ved read from your writing on this board , And ALL the things you have been through, you Sir can be anyone you want to be.
Now porknbeaner, there's no need to get sarcastic. The last of the other three rebuilds was over twenty five years ago, and I ain't as sharp as I once was. I never read your other reply til just now. I'm just glad there's a place like this forum where savy guys are glad to help an old fart get answers he should already know but maybe they're getting a little fuzzy. Thanks to all of you.
You are correct, I am forever learning something I didn't remember from a young fella that I should be teaching. Don't take the sarcasm personal, you were just available. Quick question for ya. The cam break-in lube that came with the cam wasn't a paste? If you are worried about the cam send me your addy I'll send you some good stuff to smear on the bottoms of your lifters before you light it off. Serious this time.
Ha! GOTCHA!!! Thanks for the offer, might take ya up on it. The stuff Melling sent with the cam is dark gray and the consistancy of tooth paste.
Well its about time someone did. If garland wasn't so far I'd just come down there and make you buy me a burger.
AFA as the cam break in. Get some Zinc additive. This will reduce the chance of cam lobe failure. Rotella T is also a good oil to use during break in. They left the Zinc in that oil unlike the others.
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