Projects Toymaker's Twin Engine Dragster Build

Get a fuel pressure regulator that has a port for a return line, it will let a electric fuel pump last alot longer. (PS stay away from any Barry Grant fuel pump, and or regulator)

 

I understand the idea which is a great one, I just don't understand how a reg. such as a Holley will work. Guess I need to take one part to undertand it OK I found this exploded drawing of a Holley regulator and now understand It was too simple for me
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10367.pdf

 

"PN 12-804 is a 0-4 psi reg....which looks just like the more common one, but works great for 97's, and other low psi carbs."
Bought two. Works great is not what i would say. Works occasionally. Sometimes 3 # sometimes 4# sometimes 6 #s which = drip drip drip.
One on supply upstream and one on bypass might be the answer though.
Don

 

with the regulator installed in the return line you control the pressure at the carb by letting more or less fuel return to the tank but doesn't imped the flow a poppet valve will do the same job. You need two lines a feed and a return just like fuel injection
the holley regulator passage is small and the the flow through it is reduced the more you lower the pressure.

 

Today was a full day of progress, I made a temporary sand blast cabinet to clean the outside of my carbs then changed over to Baking Soda to clean the insides...............Don't Laugh


I'm satisfied with the results (you can see the difference when looking at earlier pics) and proceeded to straighten the tops and check all passeges for blockage. It's time to contact Uncle Max for parts now.

While I was doing this Lee went ahead and started Tig'n the intakes together , no warpage and they still fit

This week I'll get the material for the lifter galley and distributor boss.

 

When you soda blast do you just switch the material or do you have to use water with the soda? I'm amazed at each post how much progress you make.

 

I have to agree with you on that!

 

You need a light in that blast cabinet.

 

jeppers,brings back memory's of tommy ivo and the 4 buicks in a rail.

 

You blast with Baking Soda Dry so I just switched the material in my gravity feed pot. I've been watching your build Glenn and it's awesome, a "Swiss Watch" compared to my "Sundial"

Your right Wally as the reflection was a problem but I finished and it's off to the recycler
Thanks guys for the words of encourgement!

 

How the Hell do you come up with this stuff? LOL
Well, you made a believer out of me. Great built!!

 

Would have been a great for tech week.

 

That Lee is also a talented lad. Looks great!
Don

 

Thanks Don, I'm very proud of Lee and his skills. I have been blessed with two very talented sons!

 

Nice weld!!

 

I'm really going to be in the need of a "Direct Drive" shaft here pretty soon, also known to some as a "Candle Stick". This shaft connects the Clutch to the rear end accepting a slip yoke or coupler, any leads would be appreciated. Rocky

 

heres a crazy idea for yu.

 

wowjust read this whole thread, what a job just awsome ,, how is the trans gonna be set up?

 

How the hell have I missed this thread all this time?

One thing I saw in a car stereo mag was a guy making fiberglass kick panels. He was gonna' put speakers in 'em, so he taped some wood rings onto the orig panels, which made the area he could put the speakers in. Then, he took some tee-shirt cloth, soaked it in fiberglass resin, and held it over the whole mess. When the tee shirt cured, he had something he could put another layer of glass or two over, and then upholster.

Yeah, chrome is $$$. Engine turning might look really cool, and fit the budget.

Keep up the bitchin' work!

-Bill

 

This is just what I need to see. Another idea in my head. great build

 

Lookin good Roc, makes my heart feel good seeing the progress Lee's da man......
(Im doing good Carl)

 

Good to hear Carl.

That's good info thanks Bill.

The engines will be hooked to the rearend thru the RH engine which turns normal rotation. At this point the goal is to smoke the tires at Eagle Field using a direct drive shaft directly from the clutch to the rear end (high gear only). Eagle Field Runway Drags does not have the traction of any of todays Race Tracks so fingers crossed should not be a problem.

 

I called Lenco today and they still have the Direct Drive shafts for $300. They are 15" long with an 1 1/8" 10 spline for the clutch.

 

Hi Toymaker....Progress is really looking good. The one and only time I drove the FH/J twin was on a clutch test day, at Sacramento. The clutch man said that we couldn't make enough power with Flatheads, to hurt his single disc clutch. Needless to say I drove through that clutch, and to make sure, I kept my foot in it till half track, I didn't want to actually blow pieces of clutch all over the place, and hurt the new car (or ME). But I did make a statement to him. I wanted a twin disc Sintered Bronze flywheel & Hat, steel floater, & Iron discs. Be careful, even if you just want to smoke the tires, you WILL need a good twin disc clutch. You may call Brenden Murry, Performance Motorsports, San Jose, 408/266-3324, pager 408/977-5533, who may have an old Schaffer twin disc (1-floater) for a chevy. Be safe, you are gonna make a helluva lot of power. One injured spectator, would end this super fun way to play with our hot-rods. Brenden, will probably have a used hi-gear shaft, and coupler to connect to your 9" for not much money. He is not a crook, and easy to work with. He is also a long time Nostalgia racer. Tony Lloyd

 

Thanks Tony, I was planning on talking to Brenden at Turlock if he still goes. The car will have Blowproof Bellhousings with SFI Steel Flywheels and I'm pretty sure that an 11" clutch cover with a Ceramic disc should hold it and I'll test it before the event. Eagle Field has the traction of a parking lot, something I have no plans of changing.

 

I have done this on an o/t truck (quite a bit larger than kick panels, though) and it works very well for strength. i would hesitate to use this method for anything exposed to the elements, as whatever material you use for a base has the tendancy to wick water into the structure, possibly causing failure. if you can address this problem, you should be good to go, though. i have always wanted to try carving foam to the desired shape, and using it as a buck of sorts. i suspect the resin may eat foam, though,

 

For a mold I am using sign board the stuff large temp sign's are made from, I waited until a local election and got half a dozen 4ft x 10ft signs that people had tied to there fence's.they are a vinyl material with a corrugation in the center so they will form a curve easy and resin does not eat it up !.This on top of a wooden frame shaped as you need.

 

That's a great idea, I'm not looking forward to the glass work and will be the last part of the project
I spoke with Brenden Murry and although he did not have what I needed he was very helpful, thanks Tony!

 

When I built the Ghost I spent alot of time on the phone with clutch people. NONE of them wanted to, or could do the old school 2 disc floater plate, long style clutch deal.


The most helpful was a Crower tech guy.

Everyone wanted to sell me a billett piece for like $2300. WRONG

Finally called McCloed. I already had a billett steel flywheel. So sent them my flywheel and they machined it to accept their floater stands, Bolts etc. This is the old way, long style clutch pressure plate. With sintered iron discs. Mine is set up as a lock up clutch. It is the ONLY SFI sticker on my whole car. But in my opinion the most important.

 

That's good info King, I've been talking to Elmer Snyder who ran Top Gas back in the day, he ran as quick as 7.60 with a single disc Ceramic material clutch. I have been cosidering using a very short Ford 3 speed box I have that would eliminate the cost of a "Candlestick" and give me some gear options and reverse but I dunno yet.