Never heat your coils. It weakens them, unlike cutting them which just shortens them and makes them a little stiffer. You can also buy an aftermarket rear leaf setup like the one offered by Chassis Engineering. For 3-4 hundred you can bolt in a new lower rear and that accepts a 10 bolt or a 9 inch axle. All bolt-in using your stock spring perch holes. I run one with a 2" block and 2 leafs pulled and my car is really low. So low I had to notch the frame. The springs are newer-style 2.5" and I don't get any spring wrap even with a .60 over 350/350 to a 10 bolt.
Speedway Motors. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2155,323_Universal-Lowering-Block-Kits.html?itemNo=lowering%20blocks
I have Jamco 3" coils and Buffalo 2" uprights in the front....Jamco 4" springs with a 1" steel block tied to the spring pack with the center bolt...4 new Monroe Sensa-Trac shocks shorter to match,uncut rubber bumpers with about 1" travel before contacting the rubber,rides great even with 5 people,trans x-member hits on speed bumps unless you crawl,tailpipes are getting kinda flat though...looks cool without cutting the frame
national chevy or chevs of the 40s should have blocks, but any trailer shop will have cheap square u-bolts and then you just need a bit of steel. with the stock rear, you don't need as much block to get to the frame, due to the pivot "raising" the rear off the spring. With an open rear on stock springs, you need blocks just to get back to stock.
I got mine from chevy of the 40s but not 4" they only have up to 3" comes with u bolts. I think i paid 60 bucks.
Contact Alex at Gambino Kustoms, if you're an Alliance Member he can hook you up with dropped uprights from Fat Man Fabrications for a good price. If you're not a member here's a good excuse to cough up the $50... I have 3" dropped uprights and 3" dropped coils going in my '52... the coils are from JAMCO (www.jamcosuspension.com) I just checked, it looks like JAMCO has dropped uprights as well.... still give your money to Alex though, he's good people. As far as what this thread is specifically about, you can order Chevy lowering blocks from Night Prowlers (I believe). I think they top out at 3" and that's what I have in my ride... looks nice and low and doesn't hit anywhere. And to reiterate, you cannot use "universal" lowering or lift kits on old Chevys.... they have skinnier(1 3/4") leaf springs than all the other makes. Why did I mention lift kits? It's an upside down lowering kit and can be used as such ns
mooneyes has 3" ones for $29.00 https://www.mooneyesusa.com/Store/p...d=141&osCsid=b1bbadd847a7051ecc96cd7b68658905
I never bottomed out my rear end with 4" blocks, and I live in PA of all places. Then again, I don't drive like an a$$hole either.
How far can you lower a '49-54 Chevy without having to raise the driveshaft tunnel?? Seems several of you guys (and ladies) are running up to 4" drop in the back w/ no mention of any sheet metal work on the tunnel. Just curious - I'm set up w/ the Chassis Engr leafs in the back and 2" blocks, but have yet to get the car on the road. Don't feel like c-notching or driveshaft tunnel mod's on phase I unless I have to.... Also, any comments on the largest wheel / tire combo you can run?? I don't care too much about having a wide tire, but curious about height, etc......
I just lowered my '51 wagon, chevs of th'40s were out of stock for the last month... went to the local steel fab shop, got 2x2 and 2x4 1/4 wall square tube, drilled them welded a 1/2'' pin in them, then had u-bolts made up and installed them, 4" ones were past the scrub line, 2'' weren't low enuf for me so i found some 1'' solid stock,drilled it ,pinned it and welded it to the 2'' block...i had to grind a little off the side to get the bolts to slide over them and i was suprised how much better it rides...new shocks might of helped too! as far as tire size i'm running 6x70-15 bias-ply ...i'll change it all when i go to open driveline;lowered leafs etc,
here's mine. 3" blocks, and front coil heated up. I'm still thinking about lowering the front a little more so its level with the rear.. but I do like the look of the rear a little lower then the front:
There was a post somewhere about a kit with springs and blocks and shocks for around 500 bucks. Said that with their springs and the 2 inch blocks that it dropped the car 5 inches? I believe the company started with a "W" Anyone?? Thanks.
I had 4inch blocks in the 51 Ford. It was a nightmare to drive. Every little ripple or bump in the road would be a big "Kabang!" I took them out and replaced them with 3 inch blocks. What a difference one inch can make. I say if you're going lower than 3 inches, do it with a combo of blocks and lowered spring so you still have some suspension travel.
depending on your budget... I'd go with the posie super slide springs and 2" blocks... I have used this method on 3 cars and it works great... no floor mods. Yes it will bottom out on big bumps but thats a lower rider/ lowered car. jason
Don't forget to change the "Pinion" angle.You will have to cut the stock spring perch loose, set pinion angle and reweld the perches. If you don't do that it MAY cause problems !!!!!!
Cut coils and home made blocks. Rides like shit but $1000 set of bags and a weekend will put an end to that. <dl><dt style="width: 720px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://claspics.com/445/624062/1295044631-746.jpg.php"><img src="http://img3.claspics.com/445/624062/1295044631-746.jpg_m.jpg" border="0" /></a></dt></dl>
The Jalopy Journal
