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Paint Qustion

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ugotpk, Jan 12, 2011.

  1. ugotpk
    Joined: Nov 3, 2008
    Posts: 503

    ugotpk
    Member

    To you color artist that know what you are talking about. I want to buy good paint. But I'm not intersted in just paying for really pricey stuff just to have a name on it. Is PPG a really good product. Want to paint color and clear coat. Want yellow from a 60s GM Butternut. Suggestions please.
    UGOTPK
     
  2. I'm biased because I've used PPG for over 30 years, but I'll go ahead and say it---you can't buy a much better product ;)
    For butternut, honestly.....I'd skip the clear and use PPG Concept urethane. Sanded and polished, it will look a lot like lacquer, can be touched up easily, and is about as durable as anything on the market.
     
  3. hawkerdriver
    Joined: Feb 26, 2006
    Posts: 381

    hawkerdriver
    Member

    I second using Concept. Once it flashes its hard as nails and looks great for years.
     
  4. ham-boned-ford
    Joined: Mar 24, 2005
    Posts: 225

    ham-boned-ford
    Member

    My advice is pay for the good clearcoat. No matter the brand you pick use their better clear. All of the UV protection is in theclear and the cheaper brands and the lower lines from all the big manufactures have clears that are low in UV Additive. I work for one of the big paint companies so I know this to be true through tests performed in lab. Aim for the upper end but not the top of the clears offered thats where the sweet spot is price wise. Expect to pay about $200 to $300 for a gallon of clear with the hardener. You can buy clear for less but it will fade much quicker if its exposed to sun and weather.
     

  5. ugotpk
    Joined: Nov 3, 2008
    Posts: 503

    ugotpk
    Member

    What should I be paying for that per gal. Is this a single stage you are suggesting. Last question for the moment. Sand with what grit. Polish with what? I do thank you for your answers. UGOTPK
     
  6. Master of None
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,279

    Master of None
    Member

    Concept is a great product,I use it a lot on my customer vehicles,for all the above stated reasons. Plus if you use a hardener like DCX61 you can sand the color and then clear it with PPG DCU2021 and make it look really great. Don't try to do that with a metallic paint unless you shoot another coat of color before you clear.
     
  7. 57choptop
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 31

    57choptop
    Member

    I'v used ppg, Dupont and others but found that for the price sherwin williams is a great product.
     
  8. Master of None
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,279

    Master of None
    Member

    Sorry to say DCC concept is like most of today's paints and are dependent on the color. A quart of DCC black in my area is $88 and some change.A friend just got a quart of red for his project $225. Anything with red in it is going to cost you.
     
  9. hawkerdriver
    Joined: Feb 26, 2006
    Posts: 381

    hawkerdriver
    Member

    The other reason why I love Concept is its easy to work with. Take that into consideration too. Many other, more expensive paints are very hard to shoot. Some will react horribly if the temp, mix, flow/fan isn't perfect. And if that happens, you have a real expensive mess on your hands.
     
  10. Pir8Darryl
    Joined: Jan 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,487

    Pir8Darryl
    Member

    I havn't done auto-body or paint work in 20 years, so take my [out-dated] comments for what they're worth...

    A great deal of the quality is in the prep work. I've seen people use expensive stuff and the paint job didn't last 2 years because the prep wasn't worth crap. And I've also seen spray jobs that were done with the stuff sold down at the discount club for $20 a gallon that looks great to this day because they took the time to lay a good foundation and do it right.
     
  11. 57choptop
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 31

    57choptop
    Member

    The single stage route is the cheaper way to go .About half the price .
    I do single stage unless im doing metallics or two tones!
     
  12. ham-boned-ford
    Joined: Mar 24, 2005
    Posts: 225

    ham-boned-ford
    Member

    I would agree that single stage is a good way to go. I should have suggested this in my earlier post. I do all white, red and black cars that way as they tend to look better in my opinion. Yellow will look good also. Probably cost you about $350 at a paint store for a quality system.
     
  13. hawkerdriver
    Joined: Feb 26, 2006
    Posts: 381

    hawkerdriver
    Member


    What he just said.
     
  14. overspray
    Joined: Jan 14, 2003
    Posts: 1,417

    overspray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A lot of yellow colors can tend to be poor "hiders" or poor covering colors due to the translucent pigments used to make up the formula. Check with your paint supplier to see if it will cover good and consider a compatible primer sealer in a similar color before painting.

    Concept single stage color is a good system that can be used with or without clearcoat giving you extra options to achieve the result you want.

    Here's a "TECH POST" TomH and I did for a garage paintjob on Tom's Track T, using PPG concept. You might find some good info in the Tech article, and the job turned out very well.

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14597&showall=1
     
  15. CR1193
    Joined: Nov 6, 2010
    Posts: 91

    CR1193
    Member
    from Tennessee

    "For butternut, honestly.....I'd skip the clear and use PPG Concept urethane. Sanded and polished, it will look a lot like lacquer, can be touched up easily, and is about as durable as anything on the market."

    X-2, I've used it on a couple times, GM Butternut yellow or Cameo Beige, depending on the year or brand (chev,pont,buick) and it works out great.
    Gives a good "nice old paint" look, not too glossy like most b/c stuff.

    But I don't like the glossy look, so opinion figures in it for me too.....
     
  16. Noland
    Joined: Oct 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,235

    Noland
    Member

    I feel This way also, If using single stage I use Limco Direct to Metal good product Very affordable. It sprays awesome, good uv protection, can be cut and buffed and looks like glass for a good price. My dad just bought a gallon of red for 175. That is really cheap. They say you can go directly over metal but I wouldnt try my luck I use it like regular urethane single stage. But if you must go bc/cc Then If you want top of the line I would use ppg or RM base then use ppg concept 2021 clear. The clear is big bucks but it does work really nice, flows out really well. If you want to save alittle money and use a middle of the road clear. I would use U pol 4-1 clear. I really like the way it works and its actually affordable compared to 2021. It also flows out really nice, has good uv protection. Thats the clear I used on my model A.
     
  17. Gman0046
    Joined: Jul 24, 2005
    Posts: 6,256

    Gman0046
    Member

    Yeah, go with the GM Butternut. It's my favorite 60's color.
     
  18. 50chevydan
    Joined: Feb 25, 2005
    Posts: 33

    50chevydan
    Member
    from Fenton,MO

    Any paint you use, prep it how the company tells you. Don't go too cheap and take your time, you don't want too have to do it over.
     
  19. as said the prep is the important thing. what type of use is the vehicle going to see? if it is only going out on nice days once a week you don't need a top of the line [expensive] paint. a lot of the paint brands sell a cheaper line of paint, some are pretty good and save money.
     
  20. I pulled up butternut yellow, 67 Chevrolet code YY PPG code 81500......Concept(DCC) one gal, $303.23
    mixes with DCX61 catalyst, $97.20 QT
    Reducer(DT860/870/885--depends on air temp) $47.55 gal.

    You*can* use DFX11($256.05/gal--I don't know the qt price, sorry) as a catalyst instead of DCX61---it mixes 1:1 with the color, but it's meant for quick dry/panel refinish. I use it on all-over jobs :eek:---never have a problem.....I just don't dawdle around. Paint pros always stressed to me "get in and get out". I took it to heart ;)
    Like overspray said, yellows tend to be poor hiders. You can prepare for that by sealing everything with PPG epoxy---DPLF. It's available in white(DP48LF....which covers poorly, but...) A quart of that runs $49.45. It activates with DP 401 or DP402(I prefer) in a 2:1 ratio at a cost of $47.55/qt

    You can jockey around with a calculator and nickel it to death---should you use 1/2 gal color with DFX11 which yields 1 gal, or should you use a gallon with 61, should you seal it or just spray over gray primer....blah blah blah

    You're still gonna spend HUNDREDS.....dollars and hours...... on a paint job----do you want it to last? I think yes, so I don't scrimp :) And believe it or not, people (who CAN'T even paint) will judge your skills by the result. Fact.

    Last question--sand with what/polish with what? Ask 50 guys, you'll get 72 answers :eek: "me".....I cut 800 dry on a DA when I can (not for beginners!:eek:), or 1000 wet on a block, follow with 1000/1200 wet, wash/dry then 1500 wet. Buff with 3M 606 and a wool pad, wash, then polish with 3M 39009 on a black waffle foam pad. By no means the BEST process, but it works for me, I'm comfortable with it, and know what my results are gonna be.
     
  21. coopsdaddy
    Joined: Mar 7, 2007
    Posts: 883

    coopsdaddy
    Member
    from oklahoma

    what about black,want it to look like a lacquer job?
     
  22. Master of None
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,279

    Master of None
    Member




    Take your time block sanding your panels.When you think your close,sand them one more time... I usually spay the black let it sit overnight, then sand the color with 800 wet. Then come back and re-spray the whole project with one coat of black then I shoot it with 3 coats of DCU2021. I cut and buff with 1000-1500-2000 and then 3m compounds.
     
  23. designs that work
    Joined: Aug 29, 2005
    Posts: 411

    designs that work
    Member

    Only one person commented on the color of the primer. Light yellows will turn greenish with certain primers. What do the painters here have to say?
     
  24. Man, I've heard that 'primer color affects the final finish' stuff for years---even from paint reps re: factory colors. Must be some truth to it, right? BUT....I've never run into it with even lighter colors. I believe you can reach full opacity(is that a word?:eek:) with enough coats. Just for time sake, and to avoid material buildup, I use a sealer that's *close* or in the same family as the topcoat....but that's just me
     

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