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Advice Needed On Lowering My Suburban

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by blown240, Jan 9, 2011.

  1. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    I want to lower my 66 Suburban 2 inches in the front and 5 in the rear.(the rear sits 3 inches higher than the front) I have leaf springs in the rear. The front is easy. I can just get drop springs for it, or cut the ones I have.

    The rear is giving me problems though. Right now there is just under 7 inches between the top of the axle and the frame. I was going to flip the axle onto to top of the spring, but there is only 3 1/2 inches between the top of the leaf and the frame. So basically if I flip the axle, I will have NO travel. Sure I could notch the frame, but even with a 2 inch notch I would only have 2 inches travel. Plus I REALLY dont want to notch the frame.

    My other option, and really maybe my only option is to remove some of the leaves. Right now there are 10 leaves and the pack is just under 3 inches thick. I was thinking of tacking enough out to drop it about 4-5 inches. Sure it isnt as much as I want, but then I would still have about 2-3 inches of travel without cutting the frame.

    So what do you guys think? And how many leaves would I need to take out? Which ones? And is this going to cause other problems I havent considered?

    THANKS!!
     
  2. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    TTT. Does anyone have any experience with something like this?
     
  3. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    So how many leaves can be removed from a 10 spring pack before it ruins the handling? And what is considered enough suspension travel? 3"?
     
  4. The Brudwich
    Joined: Oct 3, 2005
    Posts: 788

    The Brudwich
    Member

    What about converting to monoleafs in the rear?
     

  5. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    Ya, thats an option too, I just dont have alot of $$$. Removing leaves is free, and I have a set of air shocks for it.
     
  6. gwarren007
    Joined: Apr 3, 2010
    Posts: 381

    gwarren007
    Member

  7. davidwilson
    Joined: Oct 8, 2008
    Posts: 595

    davidwilson
    Member
    from Tennessee

    torch the rear spring eyes & reverse them
     
  8. The Brudwich
    Joined: Oct 3, 2005
    Posts: 788

    The Brudwich
    Member

    Keep the torch away from the springs! It will will turn them into scrap metal. Take them to a spring shop and have them dearched and reversed.
     
  9. Da Tinman
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,222

    Da Tinman
    Member

    Here,, let me translate what you asked into plain non pc english..

    I wanna lower my truck, I dont want to do it correctly so what the best wrong way to do it.........

    flip the axle to the top, notch it and drive on.

    removing enough springs to drop it 5 inches will leave you with a sloppy over soft rear susp that wont have any travel anyway.
     
  10. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    I did ask there. There is 1 guy with 5 leaves out, but other than that there isnt much info.
     
  11. 64cheb
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 74

    64cheb
    Member

    I took out 10 leaves from the spring pack of my one ton 64, that only took out 3 inches. Granted I had 16 in total, a few as overload. I would suggest a more professional approach, instead of limiting travel. Possibly convert to coil springs and arms the 60-66 trucks had
     
  12. 76cam
    Joined: Sep 30, 2010
    Posts: 643

    76cam
    Member

    You might look and see if you can relocate the sring shackles or reverse them to the top of the frame some how.
     
  13. Wtf!

    "The rear is giving me problems though. Right now there is just under 7 inches between the top of the axle and the frame. "

    There is no way possible until the laws of physics and basic arithmetic are changed that you will be able to lower this 5" and have any more than 2" of suspension travel. 7-5=2

    Your going to have to leave it alone or cut a notch.
     
  14. sir
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 467

    sir
    Member

    ..Is your suburban a chevy or gmc??
     
  15. robleticia
    Joined: Oct 15, 2007
    Posts: 2,496

    robleticia
    Member

    try this....
     

    Attached Files:

  16. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Deaver Spring, in Santa Ana, can do anything you want to those springs and do it correctly. They reversed my Model A spring for $80. They've been doing this forever...
     
  17. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    Thanks guys, its a GMC Suburban. I realize that if I lower it 5 inches that I will only have 2 inches of travel. I also realize that if I am going to drop it that far I will need to notch it. But I REALLY dont want to do anything too permamante. SO, I probably wont be able to go 5 inches.

    Thats why I asked what a reasable amount of suspension travel is.
     
  18. Troostr
    Joined: Oct 25, 2009
    Posts: 59

    Troostr
    Member
    from Artesia NM

    you can buy an inxepensive bolt in notch kit (throw a weld down if you dont trust the bolts) that will give you 2 extra inches- so If you go down 5 you still have 4" travel- combined with your air shocks for overload that should work ok- don't put the fat kids in the back seat and make sure to use the shorty poly bumpstops for when you do hit bottom, or wear a mouth gaurd. Also it may cost a few cents more, but go with drop SPINDLES -IMHO- you will keep a better ride (to compensate for the rear) and you can add disc brakes easy.(73-87 truck) and about removing springs- start with every other one -you will stay as close to the original ride as possible -IMO.
     
  19. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    Thanks. I assume the frame is the same as a truck of the same year. I doubt that GM made a seperate frame for the suburbans. If I can get a notch for the same year truck that would work I think.

    Now I need to decide to lower it as much as I want, or to not cut it.
     
  20. Don't remove any of the longer leafs. Start with the smallest ones and work your way up. Keep in mind,it will settle in about two weeks or so. Just cause you get the height you want doesn't mean it won't bottom out. Removing leafs will soften up the spring rate so it will travel more. Flip kits are cheap,but it will lower it at least 4". I'd just take a few of the smaller leafs out first.
     
  21. You can get a peice of 4" or 6" steel pipe,cut it 1/2" wider than your frame,then cut in half and weld it in.
     
  22. Troostr
    Joined: Oct 25, 2009
    Posts: 59

    Troostr
    Member
    from Artesia NM

    "what's the matter McFly.. you CHICKEN?" just cut it! BUT when you do, before you cut, make sure the frame is fully supported in front of where you cut- and behind- you can't support it enough! Other wise you'll end up with a stinl bug or a droopy rear- and no one like a droopy rear- plus its a pain to level back out later. Remember when every one was notching their 88-98 chevy trucks- and now you see the ones that look like they are going to break in half- they were poorly supported when cut and the cut either opened or closed (depending on how it was supported or not) and now they look like crap. Take your time, set it up on stands, measure floor to frame before and after cuts to be sure before you drill holes or weld (tip -if you bolt in- tack the notch in place and use it as a guide to drill) or just bag the whole thing!
    DSC01788.JPG

    Some day I want a burb to match my pickup.
     
  23. Troostr
    Joined: Oct 25, 2009
    Posts: 59

    Troostr
    Member
    from Artesia NM

    the frame tapers right over the axle, so an outer reinforcing plate is sort of a pain to bend- and you need to get the angle right on the pipe as well- If your not looking to hit the floor like with air bags- the store boughts are cheap and easy- I just finished re-doing the "pipe notch" mess that someone hacked into mine- it was ugly- not saying that it can't be done right and nice. I ended up overlaying a mirror section from another frame over mine- giving me a 4.5 inch notch ( - bumpstop) and helped get my frame back to correct level cuz the same guy didn't support it right when he cut it and it drooped pretty bad- in the end I wish I would have done it myself the first time.
     
  24. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    You have a 4.5 inch notch? I am assuming that you did more of a step notch than a C notch.

    I think about 2 1/2 would be the most I would want to go. The frame is only 4 1/2 inches thick. Then I would want to use a 1/4 inch reinforcing plate.

    Is the truck frame the same as a Suburban?
     
  25. Troostr
    Joined: Oct 25, 2009
    Posts: 59

    Troostr
    Member
    from Artesia NM

    I would guess they are the same- except wheel base- mines a shorty. My 4 1/2 came from overlaying the second frame section, then cutting the notch up to the top rail of the original frame, I will try to snap a few pics later today, cuz I havent put the raised bed floor in yet-
     
  26. I was unaware of the frame angle. I was just explaining a common way to c-notch the frame. If there's a kit available,then i'd use it.....
     
  27. Troostr
    Joined: Oct 25, 2009
    Posts: 59

    Troostr
    Member
    from Artesia NM

    Here Ya go, not as pretty as a fab'd c notch but wicked strong- I can't wait to pull my Sanger Flatty with it now!
    more toys 032.jpg

    more toys 033.jpg
     
  28. peter schmidt
    Joined: Aug 26, 2007
    Posts: 660

    peter schmidt
    Member
    from maryland

    Don't know if you have lowered your suburban yet but I have a set off bolt on rear notches if you deside to flip it. 70 bucks and there yours
     
  29. KoolKat-57
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 3,073

    KoolKat-57
    Member
    from Dublin, OH

    take my brother inlaw with you, that will get the passenger side down at least 6"
     
  30. choptvan
    Joined: Mar 19, 2010
    Posts: 2,161

    choptvan
    Member


    WTF are air shocks going to do? Those are for camaros. A suburban? With air shocks? NO WAY! They may as well not even be there! Why the worry about something permanent? People like us would still buy it IF it is done right. My 67 3/4 ton 4x2 suburban ( GMC smart asses ha ha! ) has 5 inches of travel with a notch. I did an axle over and I had about 3 inches of travel. I did the notch ONLY cuz I was going to be hauling a trailer. I never once hit the frame prior to that in the year it was my daily driver prior to that. And I hauled a full sized family of 7 in it so she did have a load to. And with a spring pack as thick as you are saying it is, should be fine. but removing leaves on something so heavy, is the wrong way for sure.

    Just realized the dates. My apologies....
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2011

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