Hot Rods Modified Murray - Race to the road! Progress in Review!

Thanks Scooter!

I'm dead serious too!!

 

Thanks Dave!! Yeah, I just couldn't leave that pillar alone. I had to make a few slices and dices to get it to all line up, but I'm happy with it. Was worth the effort for sure!

The garnish moldings were the easiest part. Just have to make sure that the holes line up with the chopped portion of the door. Then a little fine tuning to get the cuts lined up and tacked. I have a little more work to do at the front of the garnish because of the way the "winged" portion lines up with the holes. Still thinking that part through...

 

Surely you can't be serious!

 

Looks great buddy.

Tell me more about hw to checked to ensure the butterflies on the "secondary" carbs sealed properly? I have to amke sure that my carbs seal on my 3x2 prior to intalling it.

 

He is but don't call him Shirley.

 

awesome build!!!!! very inspired scooter.

 

Paul,

Hold your base up to the light and check to see if there is a light gap. If you have a gap, loosen the butterflies (may require drilling the screws out and replacing them), tilt them into their correct position and check in the light again before tightening them back up. If that works, tighten them back up and set the back end of the screws so they don't back out. I use a center punch, then a flathead screwdriver to cross set them.

If all that fails, you may have to do a little work to the bores of the base or replace the butterflies.

Mine have a tiny little gap at the pivot points. Hoping that doesn't create too much of a vacuum issue on the secondaries.

 

Thanks Scooter. You would have thought I would have been smart enough to figure that out if I had thought about it. Or maybe you wouldn't have thought that. I dont want to make any assumptions here.

 

Well I didn't think anything of it, till you brought it up!! HAHA! Naw, there are plenty of different ways of doing it.

 

so on some of the threads about 3x2's i see people saying you need thicker butterflies, their point was that thin stock ones were not designed to ever close tight and they would stick shut, maybe thats not really necessary?

 

Not sure?? Never heard that before. In fact, I didn't know they were available. Maybe someone can elaborate.

 

My Rochester 2 Gs have thicker plates on the secondaries and no idle screws. The car looks fantastic by the way. That engine is obscene it's so sexy!

 

Thanks man!

Do people use thicker plates on 94's?? Is there a thread out there on the subject??

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=271

Try here maybe?

 

Yep! Beat ya' to it! Question is up...

 

once again, This is just an awesome build

 

Scoot,
The pictures from today are eye candy! I would be very excited too, if I were you!
Tony

 

I've been following this build for sometime. Looks awesome! Can't wait to see more.

 

Looks fantastic.
Looking forward to updates...

 

Okay, updates...

Last weekend was busy outside the shop, so I didn't get a whole lot done, but I did drop in on a couple HAMBers...

Mr. Casny had a granite flat stone for me that he wasn't using, so I picked that up from him and he was also generous enough to take me for a drive in the coupe. AWESOME! He did such a good job on that coupe!





(the Burbank Pirate)



We stopped by Sandy's place to check out his coupe build. Coming along nicely! Dude has some great details going into this car, so keep an eye out!




That Saturday was INCREDIBLY nice out! Spring fever, kind of day! Was difficult to drive back to the shop and get started... But, I did... Got a little bit done. Mostly just worked on getting some of the bolt-on stuff back together that needed to be placed to finish other things. Steering, pedals, etc...

Headlight buckets, glass, and rings in place...



Then hand and foot controls...



Throttle pedal is basically just clamped in place because I have to figure out how I'm going to make the connection between the 6x2 linkage and the pedal itself. There's a distributor RIGHT where I want to go through the firewall for the linkage. ERR!! May have to use a cable for that but would rather not.




This weekend I got some serious time in the shop, though! Finished the passenger side A-pillar, pulled the hinge pins and removed the door so I could finish the jambs and replace the pins, but the majority of the weekend was REALLY spent just getting the door to fit and close correctly with the door gaps being correct.

The door gaps on the rear were WAY too tight and it was keeping the door from closing correctly as well as screwing up the alignment.



Before tackling that rear door gap, I really needed to finish the A-pillar and get the pins pulled so the door is hanging correctly to begin with. The body is already shimmed how it's supposed to be, so the rest is all up to the pins and the jambs.

Bought the hinge pin puller from Bratton's (may have been cheaper from Bob Drakes, not sure). I will never do a hinge pin without this thing! AWESOME tool to have in the box!!



Pins came right out, even though they were bent and rusted, the tool and a little heat with a MAP gas torch, got them right out...



Crazy seeing the door off!! YIKES!!





Sure made life easier, though...

Tackled the lower patch panel gap first. Just made a filler piece out of 18 gauge.

 

Then on to the A-pillar. Had to finish the chop seem and of COURSE the post was tapered on ALL FOUR SIDES, so that meant some pie cuts had to happen to get it all lined up.





Now to take care of the inside taper...



Got uglier before it got prettier...





Lined everything back up and finished the welds.

This part of the post will get covered with it's own piece of garnish molding (which will also get chopped down) so none of this will get seen. Just the same, going to clean it up the best I can. SUPER hard to get in this area with die grinders and right angle grinders. A lot of tight spots. Turned out pretty decent though...





Now that all that stuff was done, it was time to work on how the door fits. Oh GEESH! What a MESS this was!!!! A ridiculous amount of work!

Basically, I had to cut out the rear jamb along the B-pillar from the bottom almost all the way to the top.



Tacked a filler piece in place and checked the door gaps again...



Getting better!



Unfortunately I ran out of welding wire, cutting wheels, and pretty much every other abrasive I use all in one day, so it's not perfect yet, but it's pretty darn close at the end of the day. Still a little tight higher up on the post, but that's an easy fix... Sort of. Gotta' have the supplies to finish it though. HAHA!



So that's about all I got done. Welded up the top door jam too, but forgot to take pictures. Not much to see anyway. Was a PAIN welding upside down as well as taking down the welds and blending it upside down. Had to be done though!

That's all I have for this week...

 

Looking great scooter!

 

Awesome car!!

.

 

For your throttle linkage maybe you could do something similar to mine. I used 2 heim joints and a piece of tubing for the pivot. You could extend the tubing as far as you wanted and pull of the far right side of the carbs. Here's the best pic I have here at work.

 

Thanks Dave! And YES! These flush doors are "fun"! And thanks for noticing the belt line! HAHA!

The belt line is killing me. The misalignment all dates back to shortening the car. I've been fighting and fighting with it and figured out that pretty much the only way it's going to get fixed is to section that part of the body to line it up. I'm trying to decide if I'm sick in the head enough to actually section it all in the name of about 3/32""... I might be. We'll see.

No worries on the windshield frame! Just when you get a chance! Plenty to do in the mean time.

If I was mounting it on the fire wall, that's exactly what I would do. Unfortunately, I'm mounting it forward of the firewall about 4 or 5 inches. I could do a transition bell-crank that would be similar to yours, but it's a lot of extra do-dads and it's also getting pretty close to where the wiring will be mounted. ERR! Just gotta' think about it some more. Cable might be the simplest thing, at this point. I don't really like cables very much, though...

 

Nice work, Scott! See you at the GNRS this weekend!

 

Nice work Scootie Tang!!! This car is going to be finished in no time at all and your attention to detail is incredible!

I'm really digging this pic of Chris. It's just a really cool shot....



And judging from this pics I am going to be drooling a lot when I see Sandy's car in person. Looks like a early drag coupe in the making with that roll bar and white paint!!!

 

Looks good Scott. Not to pile on the questions about your door work and it just may be the pictures but your door gaps look pretty tight. I remeber another build thread where someone was tightening up the gaps on their build and all the painters warned them not to let them get too small. Most seemed to recommend at least 3/16".

 

3/16"?! Wow! That's REALLY big! If that's what they should be, then I'm going to be in a world of hurt... Maybe I'll be doing some more cutting... and welding. Crap...

Maybe I didn't think this through quite enough. Was thinking about the paint thickness and maybe not taking into effect any additional movement of the body. It's a super rigid body, but not perfectly rigid... Hmmph...

Oh well! It's only cutting, welding, and time. Maybe I can fix the belt line while I'm at it.

I should have thought that out better.

 

Nick! See you there!

It's all just work... Right? HAHA!

Yeah, bending the hinges will create some other problems that I can't fix without major surgery to either the door top (again) or the top and lower door jamb (again). I'm sort of toying with the idea of making an adjustment to the belt line on the door AND the body, so that it's not so drastic. I don't know... Gotta' stare some more.