First engine build: 8ba Ford Flathead

I have everything you need to take the valves out and valve guides.I will pm you and when you are ready give me a call .I am doing the same thing. Got my zip loc bags. I am right up the road. I saw on one post of a machine shop up in Waco I am going to give them a call about doing my machine work.Alot of good help here wealth of knowledge. And yes I got the Flat head fever.Good Luck

 

I pull the valve keepers out and then remove the valves. I take a pry bar and get the spring out of the way, sometimes over to the other side of the shop. Then pound the guides down into the valley.

I use a spring compressor tool that looks like a big c-clamp. Need some kind of tool to compress the springs so you can get the keepers out.

I use the pickle fork in reassembly.

For flathead information, check out www.flatheadv8.org. The forum area also is very informative. Read rumbleseat's writings. Better information than you will find in your books and the price is right.

Neal

 

Today I spent most of my time driving around looking for a set of stamps for the caps. The best I found was a ratty box of them in the clearance section at Harbor Freight. I chose to find some elsewhere so I'm taking a break for a few days and order them. I'll be out for a few days after a surgery tomorrow, but I'll be back on it soon.

If I die, someone please offer my family a good deal on my stuff.

 

Hahahaha!! Will do.

 

All the best for your surgery!
Hope you'll be back on it soon!

 

Back in the day we used a center punch and numbered them. One dot for one, two dots for two, etc. Numbered stamps were never heard of for those of us on the cheap. Besides, you can usually find a center punch, I am not sure where my stamps may be.

Neal

 

I forgot I had bought a larger breaker bar today while I was searching for the stamps. I tried it out just now:
(Testing video links, hope I hold my mouth right...)

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<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Rxazcq5TifU?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" height="385" width="640"></object>

I didn't go all the way around with it because it's still pretty corroded at the top of that cylinder. Cool stuff.

 

I think that's what I may end up doing.

 

the pistons are all numbered on the rods. both the rod and the rod cap. they also have an arrow that points to the front on the top of the piston(pretty obvious) as for that one crusty cylinder, you would be surprised what a little wire wheel action will do.

 

Nevala,

You had asked about babbit bearing removal. Didn't see anyone reply about that. But your block should not have babbit bearings. (those apparently would contaminate machine shops chemicals) Your block seems to be a 8ba, since it has a removable bellhousing. Do you have 8ba heads or 59a heads?

I am new to flatties too, I bought one (which is froze) and I have yet to get into it. Can't wait, just need to get some time.

 

in for this one. goodluck! I am not far behind buidling my own

 

Great project I'm jealous!!! I agree for the machine work that you find a shop that is experienced in flatheads, I also agree that your water problem more than likely is from the open intake valve, a magna flux job will tell all... I hope you get lucky on that one,.... but all is not lost if it's the worst.... these cracks are for the most part very repairable (there are exceptions) and this is where a experienced flathead shop can guide and advise you. I also recommend you install a full flow oil filter system while it's apart your machine shop can assist you here also. As far as the dip stick leaks this is what works for me,.... drill the rivets out and make sure there are no cracks between the holes (repair if so) and enlarge to just over 1/4" with the dipstick boss as a template, it is best to drill one hole and drop a bolt in then drill #2 hole and bolt etc. for perfect alignment, bolt every thing up with neversieze before welding to prevent seizeing of the bolt to nut when you weld the nuts.. use good hard 1/4" nuts and tig weld these inside the pan on 3 sides of the nut with good heavy spot welds so they won't come off, if you don't have the welding equipment or skills or a buddy that does, pay someone... now you can attach the boss from the outside without a back up wrench using the blue oil resistant hi-temp silicon for a gasket. Use good hard 1/4" bolts and make sure the bolts are just long enough to fill the nut flush when tight with a lock washer... you want to keep any excess bolt length to a minimum inside the pan. It works very well..and when it starts to leak in the future you can pull it with ease say during an oil change and reseal it. I also use it on the screen clean out access on the bottom of the pan with no leak problems for quite some time before I have to reseal it. If I can help in any way shoot me a note and good luck with the surgery my friend.... May God Bless You

 

Very interesting , looks like your on the right track to me...as for the dipstick..check out Flathead Jacks..he has 2 replacements one with an oil return for a positive filter system...along with many other parts...
All the best to you..

 

for a machine shop, I'll recommend Texas Engine Machine in Llano. Quality work, but I don't know if they have ever done a flathead.

 

your engine has an oil return on it, just above the oil pan on the drivers side.

 

finally a flathead build. And in a A frame with a T on it! Very good project Nevala. i like your attiude and approach.

All the best with your trip to Doc!

 

Well, not so good news from the doctor. Nice quintuple bypass heart operation coming up a week from Thursday. I'm banned from the garage for a couple days until I heal up what I have now. I should be back on it on Friday.

Folks, take your medicine as the Doctor prescribes.

 

Great post!
Good luck in surgery.

 

Man sorry to hear about that last surgery update!! Good luck with it all

 

All the best, man!
I'll try to get some work on my flatty done until you're back,
but I've still a long ways to go, to make it to where you are right now...

 

Is a 8ba better than other flatheads? I know nothing about them and have a chance to pick one up.

 

Take care of yourself and don't push it! Good luck with your procedure.

 

Don't rush it, its going to take awhile anyway.

 

The earlier 59A was the choice for everyone in the day. Later on, the longer (and uglier in the opinion of most) 8BA and Merc 8CM got popular because of wider availabity, less years of age, 'handy' position of distributor, insert type rod bearings, and as in the earlier ones, the ease of installing the 4" Merc crank. Removable bell housings make use of transmissions from '32 to '60 possible, a big plus. (top loader Ford trannys can be used and converted to floorshifts with Jeep top cover towers and sticks)
All things considered, the 8BA is much more practical from a rebuilder's standpoint for these reasons.
Most machinists don't want to machine rod big ends and crank pins to micro fit full floating bearings (simple operation for most machinists) so the insert bearings in 8Bas are merely fit like late Chevy, Ford, etc.
If you want a practical flat V8 engine to build, there is none better.

 

Great post, Take care of yourself first.
The sooner your health is back the sooner
you can get back to the flattie.
Get well, I'll be waiting to here from ya,

 

I plan on following this with much interest, good luck and a speedy recovery.

 

Hope all goes better than planned on the surgury. Am defenitly subscribing to this thread, Love flatheads and have had several over the years.

Michael

 

Had open heart surgery three years ago to repair my mitral valve. Got the valve job and I'm good for another 100,000 miles. Sending good thoughts and prayers your way. Be sure to follow the doctors orders on recovery...you won't be able to lift much for a while, 'cause you sure don't want to tear your chest open after they put it back together.

My surgery slowed down our HA/GR build a bit, but we're still building. Here's our build.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=189651

 

Hi everyone! I'm not exactly ready physically to get out in the garage, but I'm home from the hospital and my mind is constantly thinking about getting back out there. I don't want to be torquing something and have my heart fall into the lifter gallery right now.

Anyways, operation went good and I'm in good spirits and anxious to get back to the project!

 

Glad to hear you're doing better.
Take your time, the flatty is gonna wait for you!