Oh I think Rocky has me long beat! I got rid of one of my experimental engines today. I built it a few years ago just to see. A 080 over 440 block with a 3.96 stroke. All made here cept the crank. Hemi nascar rods and hand tooled pistons (From TRW 429 Ford Forged)A fellow bought it or stole it($2500) then bought a set of INDY 440 EZs for it and an intake. I had to put it all together and button it up. I also had to make an interenal external oiling system like i make for all my over 7000 RPM big blocks. Tis a real chore now as I age and slow down but i got er done. He picked it up and brought the rest of the gold. Now i have some more room and nothing hampering me. That little bit $$ will go directly in Poly. Twas cheap for such a motor I know but an experimental is a different deal. It is a good motor though. Now i can get the poly inside and get at it. Also have a bit to do on the senior Dragster . Mrs D bought me a 6000RPM govenor kit for Christmas so out comes the trans in the /6 car. Looks like a fun year for all of us! Don
The Parrot (poly) has landed. Today we got it finally off the truck and into the shop. One thing is for sure. The 727 trans tailstock is too long! May have to switch to a 904 or find a motorhome hanging trans (fat chance!) or use a 4wd output and make a new tailstock. Don
Bought an old B&M clutch-flite several years ago for the internals. The unit had a sweet 1 pc. tailhousing and output, probably about 6-7" in length. No park though....
Just re-spline and shorten the output shaft and cast your own tailstock. You seem to have the technology.
Believe me I have thought of it! I measured it today against a 904 from my Sr Dragster. It is in realtiy only just under 5 inches longer. (4 and a bit) I sat there looking at it for awhile thinking a 63-63 has a bolt on flange that is very short. More than likely the same spline being mopar they dont reivent the wheel each time but use what works good. Since it is a rail I do not need any travel in the slip yoke. The splines are long in these trans too. Probaly 6 or 7 inches. I could easily recover the entire extra length by using a short flange from a 63-64 chopping the tail stock 4 1/2 inches and the output shaft a like amount. That would probably leave me enough spline left to slide on the early flange or something similar . I could then chop the seal boss off the cut off section of the tail stock Slide it over the outsde of the flange seal surface then slide it into the back of the trans on the chopped output shaft and tack it with my Dc welder using lincoln 43 Aluinum rod. After that just take it apart weld and make pretty , install a new seal and voila, a stubby 727. No $$ and the right length. The 904 length is about perfect for a rail or an altered with a full size person. (Which i am) Anyway I got the trans off of it today. Hopefuly i will get is all apart before next year! (aka saturday) I also had a brainwave for a piston to use in this engine off the shelf. i found a shop who will sell me one so will try that too. Engine will come out at 333 cubes. 11.3 approx compression. Gotta turn 7000 to make it work. Because of the small cubes anything around 220 CFm intake flow will be fine. Should be doable. Don
Don just about all the racing trans manufaturers used to make a shorty kit for a tourqflite . We ran a shorty clutchflite in our f.e.d. back in the seventy's there have to be hundreds of them still around and more than likely very cheap .
YEs we had one at the shop i worked in on the back of a 300 Ford six in a short rail. I will do a search for them too. WIth the 904 it gives me just enuf room to sit and put my feet without having them beside the explosive part of the trans. I like that. I should probably just do a 904 for this but the wreckers gave me the 727 . I like to run some of the output shaft because i use a gov kit and let the trans shift itself. If I shorten it all the way the gov is elimnated and I have to shift. For some dumb reason i find it difficult to driver the dragster,watch the tach and shift ebven though it is a piece of cake in a doorslammer. Why i have no idea. Could be I have had too many birthdays since i wheeled the Charger down the track I dont know but I love the auto shift. Cost is under $100 and it is self powerd, no solenoids or no gas bottle or exra wires. If I had a real shorty I need a manual shift valvebody as the govenor is gone. This way I need one of Frank Lupos good converters (bout 5100 stall) and a govenor kit . I usually machine the reaction plates and the pistons just enuf to run an extra steel and friction in both the Direct clutch and the forward clutch. I make a restrictor up in the lathe for the direct apply circuit to hold it off just enuf to eliminate 2/3 overlap. I get a gov
Hey Don, Old6rodder shortened the tail end of the trans in his HA/GR. He has pictures in his build thread... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=439013 PM him and he can tell you how he did it.
I just Pm ed him after I read the whole thread. I see he also runs 1/4 eliphtic front ends and a slant six. He also understands the slant needs a very different cam timing than normal. Good thing he lives far away. Neither of us would be getting anything done if we lived nearby. Is he a displaced Canuck? I see he uses our Canadian expression "eh" from time to time. That is a very cool and unusual car! Don
My pal Bob stopped by and we spent the afternoon disassembling the short block. Pistons were seized. I did give it a brake fluid spash but it still was pretty bad. I got four pistons to move. Took two out and then put it in the reverse electrolating tank. I ran it on the truck for awhile but now haveit on my battery charger with a battery also hooked up. I will hook it up for the weekend, Even a 1/2 hour on the trucks battery (truck running)already produced a good thick coating of rust and crude on the iron bar. I filmed it and as soon as it is ready I will post the electric cleaning tank in action. Don
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1s9btdwEEKw&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL if you have ever wondered how this works or even if you never heard of it. Here is my 318 Poly short block in my reverse electrolysis tank bubbling away. My mike I used for the voice over isnt the best but it is all that is here right now. I apologise for that. This engine had sat for years with the hood off and no distributor or carb. The guy tried to keep it covered but wasnt always successfull. I soaked it with brake fluid and was able to get two pistons out relatively easy. Fighting the rust is the big problem as getting them to move after the soaking wasnt too bad. I had removed the crank right away. I decided to see how much this would improve things. I will leave it on the battery and charger all weekend and we shall see. If you havent tried this it does work well , costs little and smells good. (Like fresh washed clothes at first. )
You too? I thought it was something I ate! let me check. Cant get the video to show up but it is up there on u-tbe/ Here is a direct link, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1s9btdwEEKw&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL Don I dont know why I cant get it here. It always worked before.
This process is begging to be run with a solar panel. I am drawing about 30 watts , just under ,as the charger reads 1.8 amps and is at about 15 volts output. A 30 watt panel would run it well i think. That and a wind powered air compressor and i would be enjoying the good life. (Again!) Don
Ah Thanks Rocky. I was just out there wth a camera . Lot of crud on the bar now. I will pull it out tomorrow. (Sunday work here ist verbotten) The mix? Arm and Hammer WASHING SODA which my wife says is an old fashioned washing mix. She knew exactly where to find it in the Grocery store so she got me a box ($6.95). I used the instructions to mix it with water. You put the neg lead on the part and the positive lead on the iron or steel bar. It will work at 12 volts off a battery alone but its pretty slow. If you add a charger to the deal it perks right up. I have used it on cly heads with remarkable success. This is the first block I have had in the tank though . I will know in the morning but from the accumulated residue it looks promising. The heads I have done worked real well just a quick rinse and wipe and they were just like hot tanked without the caustic crap. One can also do aluminum, Even pistons with it. I learned this from the Nova Scotia antique tractor club websitie. I found it by accident. Don
I have it out of the tank. I have no water in the garage in winter so all I could do was dump a couple of buckets of hot water on it and wipe it off. Hardly a fair test as a pressure washer and a couple of minutes would have cleaned it to the bone. Never the less I was able to within an hour remove all eight pistons. The rust had vanished and anything left on the block can be wiped off with a rag without hard rubbing. Is it as perfect as a hot tank? No but it is darn good for a rusty block . After a hot tank I doubt I would have got it apart. Pics in a few minutes. Just got inside. Hard working in the doorway below freezing. Here. Where did the rust in the cylinders go? Well here. I had wire brushed this bar before using it this time. This all came on this soak. Don Oh yeah, Dont tell McTim but it looks like I will be using Ford pistons or pistons designed for a Ford. . I have one coming to see if it will work.
Looks Good! Don't worry Don, use whatever works. I've used 318 pistons in one of my Ys before (3.910") nice oversize for a 3 3/4" std. bore. I've also used 283 and 307 chebbie pistons too. The temp engine in my FED is running std 307 (3 7/8") on a stroked 292 crank with Honda (1.888") rod journals. Whatever you can make fit.
Ah a man after my own heart. Well the Sr Dragster has 194 Chevy pistons in it. Twas a huge overbore but it was thick enuf or at least that 62 block was. I looks like there is a possibilty the 351 M piston will work on the Poly. Tis a 4 inch bore and that has been done lots on these motors. It will give me 333 cubes (any V8 with a 4 inch bore cubes is stroke X100 +2) and high 11.something compression. I need to run a lot of duration (276@ 050")to get the RPM where i want it so that will allow it if i can get the squeeze rght. It is also a similar style head design. I am hoping it is close as to valve relief. I found a single piston for sale and ordered it to see. Gotta send the block out for the punch. Wish I still had my 944 bar. It is already +030". I do a bit of work for this guy still. Cutting pistons and such on my lathe when he needs it so maybe we can flog a deal. I promised an adversary (AKA former customer turned instant expert) I would wave when I drove around his RED . I like to keep my promises. I gotta make this thing cook! I am hoping for 480 to 490 HP. Everything though will have to be right on to do it and even then it may be a stretch. Don
Twill be but half a beast. But 490 hp is nothing to sneeze at. Best of luck, subscribing to this thread so I can follow the updates. You're doing some of the most interesting work on the HAMB, and that is saying a mouthful.
Didnt hurt a bit. -----yet! Yes 490 will not be a walk in the park. Nothing can go wrong to get it and maybe that is unrealistic. I am gonna give it my best shot though. Don
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