How to expose original paint? lacquer/fiberglass

My '56 Corvette is an original all black car. It was painted red over the original black in the late 50's and the side coves were left black. Then in 1964/65 it was painted in red again, this time side coves included. I believe both red paint jobs are in lacquer, as is of course the original black paint.

I wish to remove the red and expose the original black paint. Short of going over every square inch with a rag and carb/brake cleaner, what would be the best way to go about doing this?

I know the original black paint won't be great, I'm actually hoping for a hot rod/rat rod type of look anyway. I'm sure there will be spots where I went to far through the original black and spots where I couldn't remove all of the red. I'm fine with this. Once I get it the best I can back down to the original black I plan on trying to preserve it the best I can and leaving the car like that for years to come while I drive and enjoy it.

What would be the best way to remove the repaints and do as little damage as possible to the original black underneath?

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You've got a 56 Vette and you want a rat rod look??? You shouldn't be here. That's sad!

 

Just because I want the look of the old original black paint

 

+1 don't do it. Restore it to original, its the right thing to do.

 

Exposing the original black paint IS restoring it back to original! It's only original once! You can't "restore" something to original!

Tough crowd...

Anyway, the car is all original, why would I want a new paint job on it? It would throw the whole thing off. I couldn't afford a new paint job anyway and I sure as hell don't want to strip down to bare fiberglass just to have to reseal it and then paint it satin black, however that is my 2nd...distant...option....

 

IMHO, I think that's carrying the "original" bit too far...I'm not sure you're going to like the look of the original paint IF you get it all cleaned off. But hey, it's your car and your time...

R-

 

My father had to come to the same conclusion with is original 69 427 (o.t) Corvette. Yes it is only original once, and you cant restore it to orginal. But you can restore the paint to like original. If you media blast the body you can take it down to only the gel coat, and then repaint it with "dreaded new paint". Or if your lucky, find someone that restores Corvettes and paints it with lacquer. I personally haven't seen a satin black Corvette that looks good. I love the small body styled Vette's, please consider a repaint,and not a satin job. Sorry for coming across as a jerk.

 

are you sure the original paint is still under the old? what about colision repairs??

if I were going to try what you want to do I would get a longboard and some 1000 grit wet or dry and go to town.

 

I am sure and there are no repairs, I have spoken with all the owners and know it's complete history.

Sand it huh?

 

You don't come off that wat at all. Understand though that I can't afford anything like that. Best I could do is chemically stripping it and satin black. Besides, new paint would make the rest of the origina car look terrible and I don't want to have to worry about scratches and chips etc. why I drive and enjoy it.

 

If the car was repainted red correctly, and you were able to remove all of the red without damaging the black, there will be MANY spots where it has been sanded through and no doubt, many primered areas that have been repaired in the process.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
Have you ever seen a car that was prepared for paint that could be buffed back to original?<o></o>
It would be easier to strip and refinish it correctly then to do what you suggest. The original paint is gone for good!<o></o>
Signed, painter, with 50 years experience.

 

Except these were to VERY sloppy earl scheib type jobs, even the masking is horrible. I really doubt they did do it correctly. It looks almost brushed on in some parts lol.

I have gone through in a couple areas already and it looks good so far underneath.

 

AIrcraft stripper makes a fiberglass safe paint remover. There is no way you can remove "layers" in a time worthy or 100% safe way without just taking it all off. Your best bet is soda blasted ( or remove by hand) and get it repainted cheap.

 

another Chumlee!

 

Its is your car, and it sounds like your willing to work. Its worth a shot to try the sanding method. I'd try 1500 wet first, then if that isn't cutting well enough go to 1000.Then get a nice high grade rubbing compound,not the stuff you get a wal-mart, and rub to your hearts content. I just hope the paint underneath isn't too alligator skinned, or checked.

 

Your last post makes me think it was enamel repaints.

I don't have any advice on how to remove the repaints, but I do understand why you want to try.

I've seen people removing layers on collectible antiques. I just think the factory finish would have been very thin to start with, and not much room for error with solvents.

 

If the paint job that was done to it is as you say, try Oven cleaner on the surface. (the one in the yellow can not the blue one). It may loosen the enamel and can be wiped off with a wet rag. Do small areas at a time to control the progress. Water will stop any action right away and you will have to completly dry it to continue.
I have removed painted lettering from surfaces with no damage whatso ever. In fact sometimes the letters fall on the floor in one piece!

 

Wow, cool advice!

Maybe it is enamel, I'm not really sure how to test...

 

Just save your money until you can get a nice paintjob. It can't look any worse than what you want to do. You are right. It's only original once and it isn't any more!!!

 

I guess but I really don't want a new shiny paint job because then ther rest of the car will look horrible by comparison.

Damn I hate the red, I wish it had never been painted over the black

 

I respect what you're trying to do but I have no words of wisdom. Because of the age of the additional top coats and the question of whether they are enamel or acrylic enamel, I haven't used anything that would remove the upper layers and leave the original. I'm not old enough to know what kind of paint was on a 56 GM product. When you get into the 60's I can be of some help. I would suggest trying a corvette restores forum or something similar for info. Good luck with your project and be patient.

 

To test for lacquer, rub it with lacquer thinner with a clean rag. If the paint softens and comes off on the rag, its lacquer.

 

I get it.You want it to look as close as possible to worn,original paint.You'll learn quickly around here to stay away from the r#& rod term.What you are describing is not one of those anyway.As mentioned above ,1000-1500 grit sandpaper is the way to go.Get a good selection of sanding blocks and do all you can with those,then finish with 2000 grit with the D.A.,then rubbing compound.If it has a shitty repaint,you're not going to hurt it any,no matter what you turn up.Just please don't flat black the car! Edit,that oven cleaner deal sounds worth a try,I've never tried that but if it works would be a time saver.

 

If the top coat of paint is cracked, it may be acrilic enaman as the original finish is lacquer and the sun heats it and it moves under the top coat and cracks it.

 

Block sanding is not the best advice, the original surface is to uneven and you will cut through the high areas.

 

I was looking for 1955 air to put in the tires of my 1955 Chevrolet.

 

Ya gotta start somewhere. A decent paint job won't make the whole car look bad, even if the chrome isn't super nice or the seats are cracked. By your logic you might as well throw a sledge hammer trough the grill so the paint looks nicer, by comparison. If it already has several "earl shieb" jobs on it the save up $400 bones and go get em to spray it black again.

 

I have seen a 55 F100 sanded to original paint and, though it took a long time to do it, the result was good. It takes time and a very light touch, as you can go through the black in a heartbeat, thus ruining the entire thing. Lots of water, wet sanding slowly, buffing when it gets thin to prevent cutting too much. There is no clear over the black, and you will have to buff it when done to remove the sanding scratches, so be prepared to spend lots of time and effort.

 

Hey,

I get your idea 'bout wanting an original finish over a reshoot, and it sounds like you've got more time on your hands than money-that being said here's how I go about it: Oh,kay, there's a reason the oem black was shot over. Perhaps it was toast in '64-'65. This would be a pre acrylic lacquer job, and the nitro lacquers weren't very durable to begin with. To prep for the red, they may have sanded well into the black leaving you with little to hope for-jus' so ya know this out front!
I'd start off with some cheap lacquer thinner and some rags, and rub a few areas to see if, in fact, it's a lacquer job. Next, I'd try some sanding with some 400 wet & dry and alot of water over the surface. Use a large sanding block or a block of balsa wood, but do not just use your hand over a folded piece of paper. Study how fast the red comes off, and again use alot of water. You may try softening the red with acetone for quicker removal, but unless you're on your game, you may kill the black beneith as well! Forget about aircraft stripper, or carb spray unless you wanna see gel coat, big time! If the 400 works well you may wannajump up to some 500-600 to pull up some scratches out, and perhaps try some medium cutting compound on a foam pad to pull up a shine. If ya do come up with anything you can live with, I'd cover it all in a straight carnuba wax, and plan on waxing it often.

Rotsa ruck!

" All great truths begin as blasphemies "

 

I have tried.But it should be half straight for the new paint after the 100 hours of sanding