Iam thinking of running 1936 axles with the wide five setup anyone running that setup? Post some pics if you got em, and any hurdels i well have to overcome
If you want to use hydraulic brakes, 36 front drums are not a bolt on. They sit back deeper on the spindles and will run into the juice brake plates before you can get the outer bearing and nut on. 37-39's are ok to use. Please disregard if you are going to use the 36 mechanical brakes.
axles will work fine. but front spindles and drums/brakes are pretty much worthless. the rear drums MIGHT still work i cant remember. i think the 36 is spring in front also so the axle will be set back from the spring, and in order to run split wishbone you need to get a spring on top.
Like johnny says, I'd go with 37 and up spindles and 37-39 front drums if you want to go hydraulic. Will make the switch much easier. In the rear I think all of the 36-9 drums will work with hydraulic plates. In the front you may have to go with a new set of perch pins or original Model a or 32-4 to run the spring on top of the axle or mount to the bones if splitting. In the rear, you will have to weld mount on the tubes for spring above, or change the frame length to keep a stock wheelbase as the 36 spring mounts behind the rear off of the wishbone.
Here's my heap with wide 5's... In the rear I am running a 36 rearend with 46 brakes and 36-39 drums. The front end is a dropped 33-36 axle, 32 spindles, 41 Lincoln brakes and 37-39 drums. Front wheels are 37-39 V8-60 16x3-1/2 and rear wheels are 39-42 3/4-ton 16x5...all with 36-37 Lincoln Zephyr hubcaps. Hope that helps. Neal
Neal - that is one sweet truck. Here is my '29 with wide fives (and those same Zephyr caps!), although not detailed as nicely. The '37-'39 drums are different than the '36's from what I remember. The later style work with juice brakes. Early's do not. I am using '46-'48 style backing plates with the '37-'39 wide five drums and 4" wide - wide five wheels.
Like said, if you keep the spring-in front stock frontend it will move the wheels back. * also you can use the stock spring and it can actually carry a heavier than model A motor * it allows the frontend to be lower than a spring-on -top * it allows you to move the radiator back and then lower, behind the crossmember. * if you swap the rear axle bells for a spring-in-front configuration it will actually stretch the wheelbase * you will shorten the frame a scotch also if you pie-cut to zee the frame lowering the middle * this will allow a nice gap when the rear crossmember is on the rear axle and un-riveted from the frame to build a dog-leg section to get the correct rear height * also with the "Z" in the frame the wishbone mount in the front can be at the bottom of the frame to get the proper caster and not hanging down on a extension plate. The spring in front with split wishbones means the tie rod ends will be carrying a side load unlike the spring-over-axle * you also can use the '36 center X member and not end up with a ladder frame *also stock cross stewering & shocks can be used The stock front crossmember spring pocket was widened to the rear to hold the wider '37 frontspring. Link to some pics: http://s845.photobucket.com/albums/ab12/barrylm/
4" dropped axle 37' spindles 39'-48 brakes. 39-48 backing plates will fit on the stock 36' rear. What look are you going for with this car? Jim Ford
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