OK, the frame on my Peterbilt tractor has been cut and lengthened leaving many bolt holes "empty". The frame is 3/8" thick and has a 3/16" liner making the "holes" blind which I think is good. I'd like to fill the 5/8" bolt holes with plugs made from rod cut to the 3/8" length then MIG them in and sand flush to get a smooth look. 3 industrial frame guys are adamantly against welding. Next option I could think of was "glue" the plugs with JB weld, drill two divots in the seam, spot with the mig, sand flush. Although this is a working truck I'd like the frame paint to look good (gloss black). and be durable. I'll get the frame clean as possible and a good bit will be sandblasted. Prime and paint, some type of single coating? Thanks
no welding on truck frame.......usually a manufacturers tag right on saying no welding........been through the nightmare before.........not sure a good way to deal with the problem....put can tell you, you won`t find a professional that will weld that frame, uness he wants liability.....it sucks.....and not sure of your other plan, someone might try to shift blame if that was in some sort of accident......just saying.....
if the frame was cut & welded already, how much more damage can you do? truck body companies cut & weld them every day!
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I used to work for peterbilt. I have shortened wheel bases by cutting sections out of the frame. You can weld on the frame, but like stated earlier many people wont touch it for liability issues. I dont think it would hurt to weld the holes up. you could rivet them with flush rivets and use some mud to cover it up. The frames are painted with Dupont imron.
if ya look closely you won`t find much if any frame welding on a truck like his, just 2 channel rails bolted togther with crossmembers......i think no welds......not that i have ever seen, i would weld them, but i am a professional welder and i do understamd why they don`t want you to.....liability..........
you wanna do it just for looks, clean the paint out of the holes, put a peice of duct tape behind the holes, fill with body filler, sand smooth and paint.....will be easy and look good and should last.......
The frame should be something like 3x10 channel, as long as you dont weld on the 3" section or on the radius you will be fine.
But they know what they are doing and use the proper materials and procedures. .02 No tax necessary ,I know how much my info is worth.
you wont cause any problems by sandblasting then using short fiber filler and finishing with lightweight to a finish we used to splice trucks a lot but that was close to 40 years ago and noone got hurt and some are high tensil now days so for cosmetic purposes just camaflage the holes with mud and be happy and paint
Yep, 3 x 10 formed "c" channel and heat treated. The flanges are strickly off limits as indicated by the "do not weld/drill flanges" sticker. Thanks for the input guys, keep it coming.
ur welcome........and ya need all them chicken lights to see your trucker clock......can`t tell i know/ work around a bunch of truckers.....
Made me laugh again, I looked up "Trucker Clock", hilarious! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Wqc__mHkpI Now,, back to my frame dilemma. Dammit, I'm still laughing. I like Hamb, Hamb is good!
i didn`t know if you`d get the trucker clock one, think a califiornia thing....funny as hell though....i think on your holes, like i said before, nice and safe and pretty easy, cover the back of the hole with something sticky, fill the hole with a bondo like substance, sand smooth and paint, remove the tape.....easy, cheap......no worry about welding on the frame.....merry christmas, enjoy your chicken lights and trucker clock.....i`m not gay, just respect the way you handle your rig.......roflmao...
You have empty holes on the frame of your Peterbilt and theres not a chrome piece that's "supposed" to go there???? I'd a never thunkt it... Seriously, I'd probably just put in chrome acorn head nuts, you'd probably be the only one who'd know that they are just there for looks...
I'd look for a good sheetmetal shop that could bend up some sheetmetal with a radius that would match the outer rail and bolt that on through some existing holes. No welding and it would be as smooth as the cab and fenders. If the shop was real good they could bend up stainless, and you could have it buffed.
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