Yes and No. Not very good if you want to put it into a '65 Mustang. Excellent in a '36 Ford. There were two engines made throughout 1936. One had insert bearings and the other did not (babbit). The one with inserts is a good choice for the 1932 to 1935 Fords since all of the earlier equipment will bolt on. Excellent for a "era correct" speedster. Most of the ones with inserts had "LB" stamped into the surface where the intake manifold mounted but some did not. Also some people "added" the stamp to increase the value when they sold it (right before they left town). The speed equipment is harder to find and more expensive than the same equipment for the later 24 stud engines. What is the background for your question, are you considering putting it into your Model A? I have a '37 Ford with a stock engine which is basically the same engine with the water pumps relocated to the block. I had a shop that built racing engines balance it and it is the smoothest engine I have ever owned. Charlie Stephens
Everything you ever wanted to know about the Ford flathead... http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_home.htm
1936 21 stud flathead LB. It runs good. It's proved to be pretty reliable this past summer as I put about 4000 miles on it in less than two months. Several multi-day trips. Your welcome to whatever info you need from me.
I take all my meals with H.A.M.B. The next question would be finding a solid block and what would one have to pay for a mint one.
bought it from one of the guys that works at the hot rod garage. it's an early block letter edlebrock. i'm going to try a bunch of different combinations on it. next is an original pm7 thickstun. the edlebrock has 81's on it right now but i've got several 97's that i'm going to try.
Now get a cam in that dang thing if you don't already! As a matter of fact, if you're actually WILLING and serious about putting a period dang correct cam in it, let me know - might even have a 'spare' laying around that could use a good home. I love the car - wish I had a early one like it! What can you tell me about the ride? Dale
And with a cam an aluminum flywheel, the heavy stocker will soak up some (or all) of the lumpy. My '37 has a weber cam & flywheel, super port & plolish matching the intake.. someone loved it a lot before I got it. I have a fresh rebuild 36 LB with same parts and this one will take a rest for rebuild. When looking at heads, there are flat top & dome top pistons, and heads have to be correct for the application. That is why the overhauled motor will have iron heads, dome top aluminum heads aren't as common, & I had dome top pistons... It doesn't matter except I like the Aluminum look. Just one of the quirks that you will find, but Ford parts interchange a lot IMO.
Kustom36, what intake are you using there? Very handsome. And are those heads polished? What process did you use? Thanks, really nice looking.
Don't rule out babbitt engines. I have thrashed my 33 motor for over 2 years now. Drags, rod runs, day to day driving etc. Gone from running 20 second quarters down to a best of 17.8 with the new heads and inlet.
Hi, I love my 37 flattie. It's ballanced and revs smooth as hell. It lumps nice, not outrageous, with a 3/4 Mach1 cam. Sometime I will try a light flywheel, the stock one picks up from idle a bit slow, but it has good low end power. I paid 500$ for a complete used engine couple years ago. I can't stop looking at the thing yet. Let alone hear it run hard. Uncle Max is the stromberg guy. (1-801-583-6169)Taught me how to rebuild them right, has all the parts. It was worth it, the old carbs just roar! Have fun,Bruce
well i got it 1936 flattie with a 1939 top loader and rear end all running but mabey a stuck valve. where did you find the finned heads? or mabey polish up the stock ones that looks sweet.
Don't rule out using a '37-'38 21 stud with block off plates where the water pumps go. These block off plates are a Ford item used when they installed the later engine in an early car. You can run the regular 21 stud heads with water pumps in the heads. These engines will probably be a little cheaper and have insert bearings (as did some of the '36 production). My guess (rough) for a good '37/'38 block you would pay about $500. Charlie Stephens
I agree with the posts about the 37-38 motors....not a bad way to go for sure. I gave 1200 for mine out of another sbc'd 32 roadster. I know the owner and the car pretty well. I thought a slight miss might be an easy fix with timing adjustment or carb adjustment....turned out to be bad cam AND burnt valves....so I gave too much but after I got the valves and seats reground and a 400jr with adjustable lifters in it.....i'm all smiles! I picked up a used weber aluminum flywheel the other day for 150 bucks and will have a friend cnc a steel insert for it and then bolt on a centerforce clutch and pressure plate. Then it's some Eddie Meyers heads.....and just maybe some educated port work to make it all come together and who knows.....actually after the port work would come a custom cam to match....man where does it end?
One more thing to remember.... In a world of 24 stud 239 ci and bigger flatties....stu hillborn set a record of 150.?? mph as the first car to ever hit 150mph at an scta event.....it was a 21 stud flathead!!! I think that was in 1946....given that the 24 stud flathead came out in 39 and most racers were running 24 stud motors....i always thought that was pretty cool!!!