They are 5 windows but every time someone says that to me I laugh in my head because like has been stated they all were at least 5 windows or more by design and were not 3 windows. 1932 was the first production year for Ford to manufacture a 3 window coupe for the general public. There has been a story told to me that Edsel actually had a few 3 window Model A(s) made coachbuilt style to show Henry and Henry baulked at them and had them destroyed. Well story goes one supposedly survived and resurfaced out here on the west coast many moons ago and was in the Bay area. IDK if its true or pulp fiction but this was told to me by a very reputable model a restorer. The 3 window model A did exist but not in a general sense that we can say 5 window Model A to destinguish it from a 3 Window like we do post 1931. It just informs me someone who knows little about model A(s) is talking to me when I hear someone say 5 window Model A like that means something special. I would suggest buying a frame from a reputable company for what you want to build honestly, you will be money and time ahead. That is unless you really want to "build a hotrod" from the ground up from original parts and spend the time it takes in research and fabrication.-Weeks
I didn't read the whole post.(too many words) I like pictures. Customers coupes..all on my frame.. Some examples..
I assume you're posting that to support Weeks46's comment that the factory did experiment with a 3 window style, but did not produce one.
My 5 window is using a original frame Z'ed 7'' in the front and back , fish plated on the inside , boxed , and gusseted . 265 & muncie . Coop is channeled 4'' .
There she is, myth-busted lol. Now where the Hell is the 1 survivor supposedly out here on the West Coast? Thanks Bill. Glad they waited till 32 to build a general consumption 3 window. Think a 32 3 window is expensive..... how much would this darling fetch?-Weeks
It means a frame designed and pretty much made to bolt everything you purchase for it together to accomodate a Model A body with minimal fabrication in comparison with a ground-up build from a bare Model A frame. Speedway sells perimeter frames. Get some catalogs from the main parts suppliers and do some reading and research before you spend your$$$$. BTW I hate Speedway so this is no ad for Bill's stolen/copied patented product lines. Many reputable chassis builders here also on the Hamb to choose from.-Weeks
I prefer to recycle when possible. My coupe has an original A frame that I boxed, stepped 4" in the rear built a center tubular cross member and then added the side rails.
A perimeter frame ( aftermarket) is just a simple rectangular box with front and rear cross members ( maybe a center) and no brackets, mounting holes, etc. and is going to run you 900 to 1200 bucks- you don't need one. A "complete" frame with brackets, tranny mount, motor mounts, shock mounts, etc. can run up to 2 or 3 grand ( and is usually set up for a small block Chevy with an automatic tranny ( snore). You don't need that either. Find yourself a solid stock "A" frame, and build it the way you want to. Boxing plates, in my humble opinion, should be a minimum of 3/16 " plate. You can hang a flathead in an "A" frame without boxing it; the center crossmember can even be modified to accept a later tranny. Some bracing is a good idea- the stock frames twist ( by design) and it's good to stiffen it up by simply welding the joints ( which are riveted together). These are ALL Model A frames; stock Banger, boxed for a SBF/ 4 spd. , boxed flattie/ 5 spd, stock ( waiting for a motor). You can do it!
I think its waiting on me to retire. I'm kind of easing into it, filed to retire from North Carolina to celebrate my 60th birthday this month! Bit by bit. K6
I personally wouldn't cut out really nice subrails to channel a model A. I would keep the body sitting on top of the A frame, or mount it on a 32 frame. If I had to channel an A, I would choose a body that had really bad subrails. Hacking up a mint 85 year old car seems like the wrong thing to do! Hacking up a roach and reconfiguring it to channel it, while repairing it, seems like it makes a lot more sense.
My frame was semi boxed with a small block for 5 years. It was boxed near the motor mounts,trans mounts,rear kickup bit now I recently boxed it all. The frame in the center has a brake bar,and stock cross member.I cut thatnout and put in a cross member that's not as low and added a 'k' that goes towards the back.you can deff use a stock frame.
As far as mounting the engine,it really matters what your going for and what engine.I have a stock length wheelbase,so my engine is pulled back,and my firewall is recessed a lot.as for height of the engine,that's going to matter on how low the car will be and where the rear end will be.a low engine will have bad drive shaft angles if its got a big kickup in the rear.I jsut recently raised my engine and trans to get the angle a bit better
The Jalopy Journal
