Hey guys, Anyone know who makes a nice Model A frame and is good to deal with? I have an original frame, but honestly I don't want to go thru the hassle of extending it & boxing the rails. And I don't want to run '32 rails, just a simple stock-looking frame for my roadster. I'm in Colorado and have heard horror stories about Riley Auto & Last Refuge. What do you guys think? Thanks for the help dukes
A or '32-style Frame? I can get either for you from SO-CAL at the best price. OOPs, missed the one line about '32 frame.
Why not just buy 2 peices of tubing and reuse the dimensions and crossmembers you have ,That is the same shape 2 x ,You would need 1/8 inch minimum .And graft front horns in .......Cost 80 bucks and labor .I hope you can weld ....
Why do you need to box the "A" frame?? Why don't you just put a "K" member in it for the tranny and a "X" frame in front of the rearend for added strength. Use what you have and save some money for other things.
Talk to your DMV about registration. Using a stock frame with an original number might make your life easier. Charlie Stephens
What about a AA frame? Tall like a '32 frame. Long as heck so you can cut it off at the back where you need it. They are much thicker/stronger than a '32 or A frame. And they are relatively cheap.
Give Thunder Road Rod & Custom a call. We can do you a frame anyway you like. Our Model A's are all lazer cut out of one piece of material (front horns are not added on) They come with all body mounts and nuts welded on. Thunder Road Rod & Custom 419-522-4712 www.thunder-rods.com
funny...I didnt lengthen mine any kick your firewall back in a few inches usually when they are "made longer" they end up looking all wrong, proportions get off.. not too many guys can pull that off too well
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=535708 or if you have a straight frame..box it and X member it and have at it..its not that hard.
I've seen a few frames in the classifieds, not stock frames... there was a Bleed Swept frame and another box tubing A frame not too long ago.
These threads are funny. Everyone's got an opinion, and no matter how good it is, they'll all be overlooked. It's at least worth a call to this guy: www.bolingbrothers.com
I started out with an A frame. Then got to looking at the amount of factory holes that need filled, boxing ect and decided to go a different way. I had a couple broken junk A frames and used the rear sections, welded the horns on and built everything from the toe boards back from tubing. The rear sections have the same taper and way fewer holes to fill. So now the part that shows is stock looking A frame with a lot less work and I only had to box the front section.
If you have a Lincoln "juke-box" welder or better, get (3) 10' lengths of 2x4x3/16th in steel tube and build it! Just copy the A dimens. Idiot stick rod (7018 & 7024) and you'll be done in three days. Lay the front crossmember tube down,(or cut and use the stock front X-member) and at the side rail mid point, cut the ~three sawblades thick vee's and bend the tube outward, use this weld joint as the centered mount location for the center X-member or tube, then use trimmed "ears" of the rear member tube to cap the side rails at the ends. [the image is from '73, scanned] Frame horns are formed by cutting a curved wedge out of inner and outer faces of the side rail (forward end) and hammering down the top face...weld the seams and cap the remaining 1-1/2".
Eric at Riley Automotive is a good guy. If you are close go by and see what he can do for you. I don't recall ever seeing a post on this forum knocking one of the chassis he has built. Eric has a lot of satisfied customers. I'm one of them.
I'd go the make your own route, you can get the dimentions here; http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/FrameDiagram1928-31.pdf There was an article in Street Rodder years ago. Can't remember the exact issue, but it was an intro to TCI and they showed how they make them from 2X4" 1/8 wall tubing. Very simple. Here is mine. It would be simple to add a couple inches to the original length.
not to high-jack fellas but do you guys think a stock A frame not fully boxed but is boxed in the motor mounts, and alot were the tranny crosmember bolts in and has a large supportd welded above the tranny strong enough for a weak small block? its just a driver. i havnt seen to much info on what is enough or not.
if you're going to take all that time, just box the whole thing. Take ya about twenty minutes longer.
haha i hear ya rjp. well im not realy able to get the body all the way off now. i was hoping it was enough strength with what i got. it seems solid, but it doesnt hurt to ask the experts forgot to mention its also boxed were my wishbone mounts hang in the front and back. im just worried about this 'x' member iv been seing alot of now
Lots of guys have got by without boxing. I have never actually seen an unboxed frame fail, although I'm sure they have. I think you could get by fine with just the front boxed on a mild street engine. RJP, 20 minutes to box the back half of the frame? Well, maybe if you had the rails clean, laid out and factory store bought boxing plates so all it took was a few extra welds.
Here are some pics of a Thunder Road Rod & Custom base perimeter. Thunder Road Rod & Custom 811 Park Ave. East Suite D Mansfield, OH 44905 419-522-4712 www.thunder-rods.com
We do custom type hot rod frames for A's (rolling chassis' too) Gladly answer questions via PM's I'll attach some pic's,customers cars looks like most guys channel the body...(you don't need to)
Yeh you're also banned from the HAMB for life Eric for ripping people off including myself and Bob Wilson so I reckon you should set us straight before taking anyone elses money eh! Ed
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