2.0/2.3 ford

offy 4 bbl intake

 

Good info PacaRacer50

Currently I am accumulating parts to build a stroker. I already have the CP pistons, Eagle H beam rods for a Neon and my crank is offset ground. It comes out to 2.49 liters. This will be going in my daily driver, an '88 Turbocoupe I got free 6 years ago for removing it from someones yard.

To date, I have been given 3 of these cars. Usually when the abs or the turbo goes out the owners are quoted about $1500 to $2500 to fix them. If you do it yourself you can fix them for less than $200 (if it is the turbo) or less than $75 if it is abs.

Below are some links to a couple of sites with lots of info and parts.

http://www.stinger-performance.com/

This is a link to a person that has a lot of information on using the 2.3 engine. As stated above, there are differences on the 87 and 88 Turbocoupe's wiring, but stinger has an article on repinning the connector. I have done this in the past and it only took about an hour.
http://stinger-performance.proboards.com/

Her is a link to parts he sells for these cars too.

 

thanks. its been about 7 years since I messed with these little 2.3 turbo beast. I drag raced several of these here in Indy for about 12 years with the funnest being a 1986 white SVO. best time I ran was a 13.15 in the quarter and I weighed about 460lbs at that time! it was my daily driver and would run circles around anything on a twisty road, even with trashed lower ball joints.
glad to hear you are updating the connection rods. these and the stock forged pistons are the weak link in the engine. I used Crowler rods with custom forged Ross turbo pistons in all of mine even if it was a street only engine! found out the hard way one too many times.
Ford Motorsport use to offer a really good roller cam for these that was .420 lift but I can't remember the duration at .050... somewhere around 248 degrees. I would run it advanced 2 degrees with stock ranger roller flowers and the recommended valve springs. only issue I had with the stock 6250rpm limit was not high enough for this cam!
sounds like yours is going to be one fun little ride.
later,
PaceRacer50

 

Anyone? Going to look at both of these in the morning.

 

PaceRacer50, I added your info to my 2.0, 2.3, and 2.5 S.O.H.C. info thread here on the H.A.M.B.
See my signature for the link to the info thread.

 

Exeter Auto Supply has Offy intakes for he 2.0, and 2.3.
http://exeterautosupply.com/Offenhauser Catalog.html

 

does anyone know what the best fuel psi to run a 2bl holley carb on this 2.3 set up

 

I run 6 psi on mine.

 

Hey, what are you guys with carbs doing for ignition on your 2.0/2.3s? Points? Pertronix? Electronic? Nobody makes a HEI style distributor huh?

This thread is awesome.

 

Dumb question... and without going thru all the previous posts... what kind of vintage-ish dress-up items are available for the 2.3? I'm considering using one in a vintage style open wheel speedster / indy style car. Thinking it would be cool to disguise it as best possible. Other candidates include the O/T Miata, Alfa and Quad-4s. Pix of finished and detailed engines apprecated. Thanx, Gary

 

Duraspark distributor, and Duraspark box (they work well, even over 8000 rpm's ).

 

Check out my 2.0, 2.3, & 2.5 info link in my signature, some good links to people who make good parts for these motor's

 

Will do. Thanx... keep 'em coming, boys. Gary

 

i thought id give some info on this topic. maybe help, maybe not. my o/t go fast car is a 74 pinto with a turbo 2.3 and a t5. its far from stock. some good info on this thread but some isnt all correct. i did not read all pages, just the first and last few. some i may say could have been said already.

all the work ive done with these engines has been with a turbo based block. the later 2.5 crank runs a smaller main journal. there were 2 factory turbo cams. the larger is the same specs as the motorsports a-231. small cams were in all 83-85 turbo birds and cougars pre 85.5 svos. large, 231 cams, were in 86 and up turbo birds and cougars and 85.5 and 86 svos. roller cams started in 88. there were 2 grinds from the factory in roller. it changed mid 90s. the aftermarket ford turbo roller car mentioned before is the a-237. i have one sitting in the shop. a buddy has one in his 84 mustang turbo gt and runs low 11s with a shit tune. dynoed over 400 hp at the wheels. obviously other mods. that a 237 is far out of date compaired to what esslinger and boport has to offer. all exhaust manifolds 86 and later (not sure what the 85.5 runs) were the same. look for the ford casting number starting with E6. it flowed much better than the early crack prone E3s. there was an upgrade from the factory which flowed better than the E6 and also less crack prone than the E6. look for the ford part number starting with RFE6. ALL turbo 2.3 engines ran a t3 style foot turbo. ihi included. ihi and any other factory turbo 2.3 charger can be interchanged on the exhaust manifold. 83-85 ran a non water cooled turbo. 85.5 up ran water cooled turbos, both t3 and ihi. there is a tsb on non water cooled early turbos to upgrade to water cooled. i believe for oil coking issues. mine has a holset hy35 off a cummins intercooled eecs run a more aggressive timing curve due to the cooler charge air. any eec can be interchanged as long as other supporting mods are done. for example, to upgrade my 84 turbo coupes "tc" eec to an 86 svo "pe" eec, i would need to change my injectors from 30# to 35#, switch my small air meter to a large and intercool. premium fuel switches can be jumped to fool the computer to think its always on premium setting. just be sure to keep high test in it. 87-88 turbocoupes need to be repined and an act sensor added to run in other cars. 87-88 turbocoupe computers also had a faster processor. 2 fuel injectors were used in turbo 2.3s. 30# had a green top, 35# had a brown top. all run low impedance at around 2.4 ohms. the factory eec can properly control an injector up to 10% larger without needing chipped or tuned. cfi 3.8 fords run 37 or 38# low imp injectors. cfi non ho 5.0 ran 46# low imp. cfi ho 5.0 ran 52# low imp. factory bottom ends have proved them self up to 400 whp before getting shaky. cranks and rods are same as a 74 pinto. rods still stamped with D4. but, turbo motors run forged low compression pistons. turbo heads are also different than na heads. volvo head swaps are being done now with good results. the volvo head flows amazing compared to a stock 2.3. plus its dohc and aluminum.

the turbo 2.3 has proved itself to be a nasty little engine. john hubers 79 mustang crushed the compatition in hot rods power tour 2 years ago. averaging faster than na and power adder small blocks. as well as na and power adder big blocks. all while averaging high teens for fuel economy. though his is HIGHLY modified. still, fast time of 8.93 in a full interior street car getting 18ish mpgs is impressive.

kenneth, i did not go to your site yet, but ill include some venders/info sources i have used.

www.merkurencyclopedia.com

www.bo-port.com

www.esslingeracing.com

www.racerwalsh.zoovy.com

www.turboford.net

 

great inforamation

click this here is my 2.3 running for the 1st time in my 29 coupester thanks to kenneth S
http://v7.tinypic.com/player.swf?file=34smiyu&s=7

 

thank you guys for all the great info... I am going to look at a 2.3 turbo tomorrow.... its a 1987 complete with all engine .,.turbo wiring .. computers the good ones I have been told... and its hooked to a t5 with clutch flywheel and pressure plate starter.... the works... and he wants $1000 for it all..... sounds like a good deal if its all ok...with gas prices reaching $1.30 a liter here... about $5 a us gallon..... it could be the way to go.. hope to have more soon....

 

I have a "built" 2.3 w/ t3/t4 turbo, t-5 tranny, tube header, dirt track roller cam, etc., etc. headed towards my '53 chevy pickup. less cyls, less lbs and more power than stock. Base engine from '88 turbo t-bird.

 

drill holes and polish/chrome t-bird mounts, they are real cool.

 

I purchased the 2.3 and t5 today... got a great deal and are very excited about putting it in my truck... I noticed it has the Merkur motor mounts.... they look like they may work ok with a mount with biscuits off the frame.... Ill look into that some more.... I think its going to be a fun project...

 

nice make sure you post up the progress

 

cool thread!!!

 

Frank . . yes an T-5 in a Mustang is World Class from 1985-on. However, WC means the design. It doesn't mean the torque capacity. A V8 and 4 cyl T5 use the same gears, yep the same. However, the input shaft is different, along with the corresponding counter gear cluster. This changes the gear ratios tremendously, whereas the ratios are not good for a torquey V8, but great for a small engine. However, this change is what is responsible for a 4 cyl T5 not have the torque rating that a V8 has. I have rebuild 4 cyl T5s into V8 versions be replacing the input and cluster, thats all there is to it. It increaces the torque rating ( stronger ) a lot.

 

here is my 2.3 / t-5 powerd sport coupester this things flys the car is so light and the gearing is so high i only need 3 gears 4th and 5th are over drive ..lol
click here enjoy
YouTube - round 2

 

so what is the bottom line on mating a T5 to a Pinto 2.0 ?? Bellhousing?

 

Here is an NOS Mickey Thompson valve cover for a Pinto engine.

 

Here is my 2.3 I run in my derby cars It's not done in this picture. Very simple engines tons of aftermarket parts and flat out tough engines. One day I hope to have a one built up to put in a driver.

 

Hey skiprip,
We didn't get the pictures. Try posting it again. I'm sure everyone would like to see them. Have a great day!

 

I use filter adapters from ford vans with V8's, turns the filter 90 degrees.

 

I "swisscheesed" mounts from a '93 ranger and used doughnut mounts at frame end.

 

Ford had an issue with high wear in valve train components linked to cold engine/oil flow and recommended a very low (5W20) rating oil for many engines, I get the Motorcraft oil at Wal-Mart.