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1929 Ford AV8 F1 box question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by INLAW MODEL A, Nov 21, 2010.

  1. I have a project and I am going to use the F1 box with the oem flange on it. I am just grinding the flange down to fit inside the frame. It seems to be ok and has 1/8" clearance to the exhaust. I assume 1/8" is ok if the mounts are all new?
    Also, do I need to cut down the column tube or do I use it as is? It seem a little tall inside the cab. What does everyone else do?

    Is there a reason for welding on the model a box housing end on a F1 box? Does it give more clearance?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Rich Wright
    Joined: Jan 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,922

    Rich Wright

    Get a copy of Mike Bishop and Vern Tardels book "How to build a traditional hot rod", and Vern Tardels tech book (very cheap) on ford steering boxes and how to install them in hot rod chassis. All of your questions are covered and answered in these two books.

    Both books are invaluable, regardless of how many builds are under a guys belt.:)
     
  3. I have the How to build a traditional hot rod book, it is detailed and yet a little vague.
     
  4. I am using an F1 steering box in an AV8, I did the model A flange conversion and lowered my steering box in the frame to clear the exhaust manifold by about 3/4. My F1 steering shaft is also shortened by about 2" or so just to get a little extra room in the cab (rpu) also when the steering shaft was shortened we added an earlier Ford, splined end to accommodate a 40 Ford steering wheel. There are a few photo's in my album if you click on my username. J...
     

  5. BRYANSAYER
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 78

    BRYANSAYER
    Member

    I cut my f100 flange to resemble a model a flange to clear the frame it made alot more sense than to reweld a flange .the original casting is stronger than a weld.
     
  6. stevens2@htva.net
    Joined: Jul 26, 2008
    Posts: 59

    [email protected]
    Member
    from 14883

    My AV8 has a forty dash so it needed to be a little longer . The steering shaft had been cut so I just welded it back with a sleeve, it's been fine. Remember to check the position of the key if you are using an older box so the wheel will end up were you want it.
     
  7. jetmek
    Joined: Jan 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,847

    jetmek
    Member

    if your column drop is near stock location, you need to move the box closer to frame rail so the column is lined up with normal seating position and wont interfere with the pedals. i also shorten them for better wheel placement
     
  8. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 7,092

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    I really wouldn't be comfortable with only 1/8" clearance. That box is gonna be smackin your exhaust over every big bump and cooking you gear oil too.

    The main purpose, like Jetmek said, is to position the wheel and column where it needs to be. F1 framerails are parallel, model a's are tapered, and deuce rails even moreso. I shorten them as well, using a reinforcing sleeve over the joint in the shaft.

    Welding on the new flange really is less work than it sounds like, if you get all the grease baked out of the box, it actually welds quite nicely. I've done three of them like this now and never had one break yet.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I've got about 3/4" between this header tube and my box.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. cool! Thanks for the help. I will go cut apart my box now.:D
     
  10. George G
    Joined: Jun 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,274

    George G
    Member


    I agree. Just grind the stock flange to fit. I cut mine and welded on the A flange. I'm not happy with it.
     

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