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Model A door latches... what to use?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by GaryC., Nov 20, 2010.

  1. GaryC.
    Joined: Mar 24, 2007
    Posts: 1,557

    GaryC.

    I'm about to replace the stock door latches on my 1929 Ford.
    What have you guys used?
     
  2. slddnmatt
    Joined: Mar 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,685

    slddnmatt
    Member

    small bearclaws work well
     
  3. banginona40
    Joined: Mar 5, 2007
    Posts: 773

    banginona40
    Member

    I used Volkswagon bug on my coupe. Latches and window winders.
     
  4. GaryC.
    Joined: Mar 24, 2007
    Posts: 1,557

    GaryC.

    Thanks guys!
    I would have never thought about VW stuff.
     

  5. mobile chicane
    Joined: Apr 17, 2006
    Posts: 160

    mobile chicane
    Member

    I am working with Carolina Custom's bearclaw stuff. I am making a bell crank and bracket in the bottom of the door to transfer the motion under the window.
     
  6. Canuck
    Joined: Jan 4, 2002
    Posts: 1,104

    Canuck
    Member

    Using a small DUAL arm bear claw. The dual arms allow a link for the outside door handle and a seperate link for the inside handle. The outside handle is a modified Model A latch with the bolt section removed but the lock for the drivers door retained. The pivot in the original latch has a arm BRAZED on for the new linkage (cast so it does't like being welded). The inside door release is a 48 Chevy one that matches the splines on the window mechanism that I am using and has a slot so the release of the latch occurs near the end of the handle travel. Pivot below the window track handles the change in motion using a bracket welded to the doors frame and a removable pin. Bell crank has a pre lubed bushing for easy operation and has a slot so the release of the latch occurs near the end of the outside handle travel. Linkage is retained by spring clips on all ends except one with a Heim style end to allow some adjustment. Springs in the original model a latch (rebuilt) and the Chevy remote seem to be adequate. The latch has to be on the inside of the window track and protrudes about 1/2 inch into the car.

    For window mechanism I am using the racka nd pinion system out of t Jeep Cherokee. Smooth and secure and cheep.

    Also check for a posting by AHotRod titled "Safety Door Latches in Model A with operating Windows". That was my inspiration for my build with a different aproach but similar results.

    Hope this is of some help.

    Canuck
     

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  7. GaryC.
    Joined: Mar 24, 2007
    Posts: 1,557

    GaryC.

    Thanks again guys.
    Canuck... that was extremely helpful.
    Do you recall what year Cherokee that was... or are they all the same?
     
  8. Canuck
    Joined: Jan 4, 2002
    Posts: 1,104

    Canuck
    Member

  9. GaryC.
    Joined: Mar 24, 2007
    Posts: 1,557

    GaryC.

    Canuck... thanks one more time.
    The how-to on the window mechanisms was fantastic.
    I will probably "wind up" doing this!
     
  10. HRod 50
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 760

    HRod 50
    Member

    http://www.haganauto.com/bear_claw_latches_s/98.htm these guys "supposedly" make the best on the market.. I just had them installed on my car and they work great, smooth as hell, and according to my builder one of the best he's ever seen.. Good Luck...
     
  11. Same industrial latches that everybody sells as far as I can see:rolleyes:
     
  12. fordcragar
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 3,198

    fordcragar
    Member
    from Yakima WA.

    I've used VW bug latches and window regulators on several cars, they work well. Bug parts are usually fairly cheap, so you might be able to find a couple of doors at a swap meet and get the striker off of a quarter panel for the latch.
     
  13. Canuck
    Joined: Jan 4, 2002
    Posts: 1,104

    Canuck
    Member

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