Customs 35 Ford 3-window build

I dont know for sure how long it sat there. Tom do you have any idea how long Bill had it up there?

I wish the guy hadn't put another car there so I could get an after shot.

 

Lol thanks Jaws ...thats the only way I will get one...bought an e-wheel recently to start practising ...I am trying to pick up any 35-6 bits when I find them and can afford them I will have a reasonable facsimile of a 3 window SOMEDAY !

 

I put my front end together today. I had to take my spindles to work so that I could ream the bushings. It all went together fairly well and I am happy with it.

 

Can I just take a moment to say how much I hate you for having that car! Glad to see it's getting treated so well.

 

Not sure, must have been at least 15-20 years. FYI this is a staged seen....... the former owner set the two cars and the outhouse on a hill on the back side of his property so every time he stepped out the back door of his house he would see them. He also has a 5 window setting as yard art when you turn off the main road and enter his driveway.

BTW Kellan we can drag the Buick out of the way that he put in the place of your coupe to take an after pic.

 

I was thinking it had to be around 20 years also. If we move that Buick I'm afraid it may fall apart as rough as it is, but it would still be worth it.

 

intrested to see the rear end setup, I pancacked the rear crossmember in my 40, not as much as yours cos i didn't have enough space on the frame rail without C ing it. I've got about 3 inches up travel with a half inch bump stop using a stock spring/axle. What does yours look like. This is what I like about the HAMB, a chance to see how other people have got around your problems..cool build.

 

Today I worked on the mount for my johnny joint. I started with one of the nuts and welded a piece of pipe onto it. I then made a washer with a hole saw. I then got a piece of pipe that fit over the nut and welded the washer to it. Next I welded the nut with the pipe to the frame. I then welded the larger pipe over the top. I have to thank my teacher for helping me with ideas. I think it turned out good.

 

Your johnny joint turned out great. It even looks better in person...

 

Thanks Curt. your frame is working great too

 

Keep it all Ford, looks great

 

today I bent the wishbones to match the angles of the johnny joint and the rear spring then I set the rearend in place

 

Your work is excellent! Keep up the good work!

I just have one FNG question here, how the term "Johnny joint" get coined?

 

I have no idea why they call it a johnny joint.

 

So, I'll ask again... Do you have plans for wheels/bolt pattern? Hard to tell if you have 4.5" or 5.5" bolt pattern right now (car or truck). Just asking to see what you plan to do if you are going to 5.5" pattern....

 

FoMoCoKid, Looking forward to continues progress on your '35. Did I hear that a chop is part of your plan ? That rear crossmember should give you a tail dragger stance. I am doing a '41 Fordor with a Y-Block adapted to a '39 Merc trans and '41 rear axle. Was considering a lowered croosmember like that. Keep up the great work.

 

I'm guessing, but I bet it has to do with one of the Currie's sons, John. Maybe he coined the name or it was coined after him? The name is registered to Currie Enterprises.

Also... I gotta say, I really dig this project.

 

Sorry I was going to answer your question before but somehow when I was posting I forgot. Being 18, in college and trying to build a car makes for a tight budget. That being said I got the rearend as a graduation gift. It is a '57 Ford car rearend. I have to use what I have, so in this situation even though I don't really want to I will probably end up using wheel adapters to go to the bigger bolt pattern. You wont see much of the rear wheels anyway due to fender skirts. Once again sorry for forgeting to reply to you.

 

Who let the cat out of the bag?! Yes there is a plan for a chop. I was originally thinking 3" but I have started to think less and less chop. Now I am thinking 1.75" to 2". I really want it to be subtle.

If you flaten out the crossmember like I did really plan your cuts well. If that crossmember is like mine it has a slight jog back so it will want to come back as it goes up.

 

Today I made a patern for the brackets that hold the rearend to the wishbones. I then cut them out of 3/8" steel. I still have to cut the piece that wraps over the top of the axle.

 

Cool... thanks for the response.
I'm going through this right now, also using a '57 car rear. A machinist friend is going to weld a ring around the axle flange, machine it flat, and drill the 5.5" pattern. The stock flange size puts the holes/lugs right at the outer edge if you try to go to 5.5".

 

Is there enough meat on the brake drum to do this and still have a flat mounting surface?

 

It looks real close on the drums, also. I ordered a pair of (5.5") drums for a '64 F100 and will let you know how everything works out...

 

Last monday I finished making the top of the rear wishbone brackets and then I tacked them on. I have been working on the drivers side door every once in awhile after work. it is starting to look better. Over Thanksgiving I took my transmission adapter out of my pickup. So now I can put the engine and trans in and then set my pinion angle before welding everything up.

 

I cut the mount off of the transmission and smoothed it out. I made 2 bungs out of some tube and some nuts. I bolted the bungs to the original trans mounts on the frame and then I made some brackets that bolt to the tailshaft. I then welded the brackets to the bungs. The mount is isolated on top and bottom of the bolt with 1" thick rubber. I also got started on the panhard bar, I just have to finish welding up the bracket.

 

I have it set up right now without any load on the spring with 4.5 inches clearance between the frame and rearend. I am hoping that with load on it it will settle down to haveing a 3 inch up travel.

 

Nice work on the trans mount and the axle, Fomocokid.

The 39 bones are not strong enough on their own to locate the rear axle. Will you be adding some sort of triangulation or torque rod to help??
Mart.

 

The rear mount looks good, but that drivers door still looks like shit. If I remember you were doing the inner structure and than going to reskin the outside, and of course you have new bottom patch panels

 

This is more motivation now all i have to do is drive to Montana and pick up my 3 window....

 

They are '35 bones and yes I plan on adding a third link, but I'm not sure how I want to do it yet.