Still no rollbar so I moved to plan b. Should have one this week. After watching McTims build and running of the Ford Y block FED, today (with a little help from him i might add )I decided this rail is getting a 318 Poly. Might be a mild one at first (Yeah i know I always say that and even I know it will at least be "alive" ) Actually there is a truck or industrial engine that is a 324 but otherwise identical and I know where a NOS block assmbly was up till a year ago. I think i will keep the Jag for an Austin Bantam project . First thing though is to get this FED up on four wheels. I will be on that tomorrow. Don
Worked on the rear axle today.Cutthe axle stubs aff thechopped sections right at the weld and started machining the stubs. I cut the inside out about 1/2 inch in so they slide right over the tube just like whae it was first made . It helps huge with the alignment of the stubs. I would like to get the axle shortened and mounted by friday. We shall seee how that goes. Still looking for a 318 or 313 Poly or as they call it around here wideblock. Don
I got the axle stubs or ends(where the Wheel bearing goes) welded on today. I tacked them in place but I wll not finish weld them till I have the shortened axles. Just to be sure. We also went on a 318 Poly hunt but our favourite supplier of old mopar schtuff was not home. Maybe tomorrow. Don
But I am enjoying life . More so then ever . Actually it isnt that bad. I worked on the diff yesterday morning. We were having coffee on the porch when the idea for the new blast foundry furnace came to me. 1/2 hour later it was done and we were on the road searching for a 318 poly. On the way home we got a bag of wood pellets and tried it out. Vern went home. My wife was away till later so i whipped up the Cement and put the "sort of refractory" lining on the new furnace. Didnt probably actually work 4 hours. Don
This morning we went back to the yard where we were yesterday. couldnt find the guy but the closed sign was down so we went back in the yard looking for him Didnt find him but I stopped by a 66 plymouth with a hood off something else covering the engine. "Sure nuf Leroy" twas a 318 Poly. Looked a bit the worse for wear but as long as it isnt cracked it doesnt matter. I left the guy a note saying I wanted it and some folding pictures of the Queen. ($$$$ bills) for a down so he knows I am serious. He is ok ,otherwise I would not do that. So technically at least IVE GOT ONE! Don
How did I miss this!, would have liked for you to keep the jag though, I hope to be running mine soon
Thanks Vern . Looks good! re jag If mine was the same vintage as yours I would be a lot more inclined . I wanted a Hemi Jag but instead I got a pentroof 24 valver. I am keeping it anyway so fear not but this Poly engine thing has been on my mind ever since i saw McTims build with a 312 Ford. I started with a 318 poly. I have always liked them and have raced 2 and driven probably 1/2 dozen. The rail will take either since I try to keep mounting non permanet. . Keep pluggin away. Very cool build you are doing. Don
As you may have noticed in the previous fotos on this thread there is a big rusty hole to the outside of these motorcycle wheels. It is where the brakes out normlly go, Using the reverse of the pattern i made to cast the Wheel bearing holders in my other project i used it to make a mold so i can pour a set of Hubcap to cover that section of these wheel. I discovered a fellow making telescope parts in open molds. He makes the molds quite wet then lets them sit for several days to dry out before pouring into them.. I am trying that here. I made a pair of molds and will let them sit at least the weekend to see if they dry out enough to pour them. It certainly as he suggests allows you to make a better mold. We shall see how they turn out. The aluminum one in the pics is the wheelbearing adapter I cast and machined to put these wheels on a Chev Handivan axle but the appearance is identical as they are made from the same pattern. A normal chrome trailer centre cap will occupy the hole giving access to the nut and cotter key. Don
I finished tack welding the bearing stubs on the diff housing. Saturdays is idea day here at the ranch and I had an idea to try whats in the photos for a long time. Very easy to do. I was shocked. 1/2 hour to spline it 1/2 way around. I did this down axle from where it will be eventually cut and will finish the whole spline just for pratice. Axle needs to be shimed up .015" in the main big vice. I am not going to say too much as I dont want the flak but somehow I am thinking I am done paying for axle resplining. Don OH YEAH! the Wrecker guy phoned. I can have the 318 poly and the auto trans for $200. I said yes of course. I already left him $30 the other day. Don Axle is indexed by the side gear in the old posi unit clamped in the other vise. (2nd picture)I have thought about trying this for years. Spline first, cut later. First time I had a chance to try it. Works perfectly.
So you're extending the splines so the axle can be shortened?? Never thought about indexing using a stationary side gear. Did you grind your own tool?
Don.....I was hoping that you you going to keep the Jag, I found one in the Bowmanville area, I was going give you a run for your money.
Don do you have any lighter pics of the splining job? and setup? neat Idea how about using a spool??????
Carl. my camera is crap and it is dark in the shop. My wife has a decent one so i will try an photo tomorrow with it. I am practicing at this stage but it is looking good. I also thought if one had already chopped the axle a old wheel centre with a stub machined up to hold a splined stub from the chopped part would work just as well I do not clamp the vice hilding the posi or spool. It sit there be gravity so it dose not affect the clamping of my axle. maybe that isnt good but it seemed to work better. Vern tried cutting a spline on it today. No trouble. cut it like a pro. Anyway I will do what I can to get you a decent pic. Don
Hubcaps for my cycle front wheels . I made a baked mold and was doing a melt today so i cast me some hubcaps for the open area of my motorcycle wheels. First you will see the mold with a split steel sleeve with some sand in it for a core. Then the pour is made. After it cools you squeeze the split steel core wth a pair of pliers and it comes right out leaving a nicely shaped hole you can work off of. A few minutes in the lathe and a quick buff with a flap wheel netted this. A normal automotive Dust cap from the trailer supply place will be popped in the hole to cover the nut and outer wheelbearing. I may weld the hubcap on or fasten it with countersunk screws I dont know yet. These hubcaps started life this morning as a Chevy TBI manifold. Don
These splines appear to be 90 Degrees angle set in the middle at 45. I have looked at them several times with my glasses as I was surprised but I have a jewelers loup I will check it with before I do the final cut in the right place.I used a damaged end mill (chipped tooth in one flute) just to see if it would work. (I didnt want to ruin a good one if it was too hard.) I think I would grind a cutter from a 1 inch tap I have . Good steel got at least one tooth to work from and it will clamp in my collet. I was quite surprised how well this worked. My eyesight which was in my younger days spectacular is barely serviceable now so I have to check check and recheck. It is why I dont do motors for a living anymore. Wanted to quit before i messed up. Of course my own stuff I just take my time and if have to I ask somebody. IE "What number is stamped on the rod?" Sorry about setting the Jag aside. This was my first type of engine though. First one I ever built too. Always been soft on the old Poly 318s. I hope you can forgive me. Don
Hot damn Vern and Don, thanx for the pics now I get what you have done, looks like I will try my hand at home splines vs shop, makes sense.......Carl
NOw if you all sitting down I will tell you something else I tried a couple of three years ago before I had found and set up this big mill. I wondered for years if a carbide tipped saw blade would cut into an axle spline. I was retiring the blade in my sawblade anyway so I took a mopar axle stub and tried it and it will. I figured a carbide should handle it. I never went any farther with the spline cutting idea till this but there are all kinds of possibilities for someone with patience and imagination a good drill press locked on position and these side gear indexing idea and some careful set up. The reason this is a big deal to me anyway os I am paying almost the same or within to get an axle resplined as to buy a new hi strength one. If I can repline for nothing i can use these as I am not making enuf power with my "fun for an old guy" motors to worry about axle strength. Beside a 8 3/4 axle is really strong to begin with. If I have to pay for replining I would just order the aftermarkets. Some of you would go that way anyway and I have no trouble with that plan. Now my one supplier has a set of hi strength mopar axles with green bearings he took in exchange for something else. If I get comfy with this resplining I may buy them and shorten and repline the if I can get them for a song. Don
I finished cutting all the way today. As i said this is just a tryzee to see if it works. I left the first cut half length and then on the other end of the job finish cut it. Followed the same path exactly so that is good. (I think) Let me say right here while I am trained as an automotive machinist but not a general machinist so I have sort of self learned this stuff.We didnt even have machine shop at our high school. If I say something stupid it is simply because I probably dont know. (yet) I got my loup out and a square piece of hardened steel and checked the spline angle. It is not 90 (or 45 deg per side.) More than likely 30 per or 60 deg. I will figure that out before I get brave and do the real cut. I also have to reduce the axle diameter. Just a bit for one axle but quite a bit for the other. (On a FEDs or Altered to centre the pinion in the chassis you wind up with two different lengths of axles. In a normal width car it is not really a big deal but in a narrow car it is. ) I cant get these axles in any of my lathes so I will have to "phone a friend" so to speak. I think I know who will do it for me quick with no hassles. (Und fuer nur kleingeld) (little $s). I find this whole deal very interesting. It takes about 1 1/4 hours for me to do the full circle. I will practice till I feel confident then give it my best shot. I would like to make a real fixture to hold a side gear rather then using it as I am in the photos although it worked perfect so maybe I am being silly about that. Sometimes improvements dont work out that way. I am sure many of you know what I mean by that. I am also sourcing a cam core and cam profile for my poly engine I know what profile I would like but getting it is not always easy. Don
I really miss good eyesight. I am having a hard time making a good cutter mostly because I simply cant see well enough. Years ago I bought a surplus bin of WWII aircraft making tools. There were reamers and taps. The taps were for the most part over 1 inch and I have still maybe 30 left. I am sacrificing them to this project. As many as it takes to make a good cutter.
I made two cutters and left an extra tooth on both just in case I mess one up but they willl not tighten in my colets. They are just snug and no more. Not tight enugh for cutting. I will have to get creative in the morning.
The Jalopy Journal
