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T5 Conversion clutch problem 56 chevy truck

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by cal1320, Nov 14, 2010.

  1. cal1320
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 71

    cal1320
    Member
    from Florida

    I swapped the SM420 for a T5. When I started it the clutch wouldn't disengage. When the pedal is depressed the disc moves at least 1/16'' away from the flywheel but its locked solidly to the pressure plate.
    My thoughts were: If the throwout bearing collar was too long it would be stuck to the flywheel. So it must be OK.
    Flywheel and pressure plate are 56 Chevy, disc is s10
    What would cause the disc to move back with the pressure plate?
    Calvin
     
  2. Article in the SRodder are RC about the install and the things to make it happen.
     
  3. cal1320
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 71

    cal1320
    Member
    from Florida

    I dont subscribe to SR anymore.
     
  4. I don't know if this is your problem, but when I was mating my t-5 to my 283 I had to re-shorten the input shaft and also extend the splines to allow the disk to slide enough to disengage without binding.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2010

  5. cal1320
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 71

    cal1320
    Member
    from Florida

    I shortend the input 1/2''and the bearing collar 1''. The problem is the disc won't stay forward and float between the flywheel and the pressure plate. It stays locked to the pressure pate as it moves back from the flywheel.
     
  6. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Did you put the disc in the right way?
     
  7. cal1320
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 71

    cal1320
    Member
    from Florida

    The raised side of the disc it towards the pressure plate.
     
  8. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    How long did it sit after you put it together? You hear the ocean?
     
  9. cal1320
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 71

    cal1320
    Member
    from Florida

    Less than 24 hrs.
    Ocean? The only waves I hear is the tranny waving me back under the truck.
     
  10. did the imput shaft fit in the pilot bushing? maybe it's stuck.
     
  11. cal1320
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 71

    cal1320
    Member
    from Florida

    Yea, the pilot fit OK. I removed the bottom shield and from under the truck and you can't seperate the disc from the plate when the pedal is pushed. Tomorrow I'll pull the trans off the bell, have someone push the clutch pedal and see if I can knock it loose.
    I guess if this shit was always easy everyone would have a hot rod.
     
  12. rat seeker
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 377

    rat seeker
    Member

    I had this same issue. I had to get a new clutch disc that the hub on the disc actually protrudes towards the engine not the transmission. I went to my local clutch shop and they ordered me one. Fixed the problem
     
  13. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    Doesn't that sound like there is something hitting between the disc and flywheel? Just saying like if it had some wrong disc hub, and the flywheel bolt heads were hitting?

    I don't know what type of linkage you have but:
    How about backing the trans bolts out maybe 1/4 to 3/8" and jamb a wood wedge to keep the trans back and level...then see if the disc will spin with clutch depressed?


    EDIT: rat seeker answered while I was typing. Sounds like your problem.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2010
  14. i think i would just plan to pull the tranny and clutch. from the time you posted till now it could have been out and back in. i know it stinks to do it again but i would want to know what was going on in there.
     
  15. joe_padavano
    Joined: Jan 18, 2010
    Posts: 263

    joe_padavano
    Member

    Check the length of the bearing retainer on the T5. In the SR article, they needed to shorten the retainer to allow enough throw of the clutch disk on the splines.
     
  16. If you can find a Diesel S-10 (rare, but probably not as rare as they should be) with the T-5, they have a 3/8" thick aluminum spacer between the trans and bellhousing that, along with shortening the end of the input shaft where it goes into the pilot bushing about 1/2" and cutting the throwout bearing snout/bearing retainer to the same length as the one on the old 3 speed, will solve your problem. If you can't find that spacer from the diesel S-10, make one out of 3/8" flat aluminum or steel plate.
     
  17. Snarl
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,639

    Snarl
    Member

    If you try to make a spacer from something that thick you will loose the registry that the bearing retainer provides.

    I have an 11ga. steel shim available which is usually enough to solve this issue and won't cause you to loose registry.

    The problem is most likely that you put the disc in backwards, or the disc is binding on the shaft splines. If the later, either grind some off the backend of the disc hub, use a THIN spacer, or grind the splines longer.
    If the flywheel has been surfaced too much, the clutch hub could hit the flywheel bolts. Make sure the flywheel bolts are correct type.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2010
  18. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have seen that too.:eek: Kwalatee kontrol!:mad:
     
  19. kdorfner
    Joined: Feb 28, 2010
    Posts: 90

    kdorfner
    Member

    I have a t5 in my '50 chevy with a '54 235". I encounter this problem just about
    every time I remove the clutch and trans for whatever reason. One time I shimmed
    the ball in the bellhousing that the fork rides on with a body shim, worked. Just
    bought a clutch kit from Rockauto.com for an s10 with a v8 swap, nice kit. Would
    not disengage. Just ordered the throwout bearing for the '50 Chevy, it's longer and
    should solve the problem, I hope. When this happens it seems there is not enough
    throw in the peddle and the clutch is just dragging and if I could get just a little
    more peddle it would disengage.
     
  20. cal1320
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 71

    cal1320
    Member
    from Florida

    It's fixed!!!!!!
    Pulled the trans today. It must have just been jammed somehow. Push the pedal and disc floats between flywheel and pressure plate as it should. Thanks for the suggestions though.
    Calvin
     
  21. trad27
    Joined: Apr 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,197

    trad27
    Member

    It might have been anwsered here but this thread confused me more than anything. I have a '63 283 in my A with the bellhousing, flywheel, PP, clutch fork, and throwout bearing from the same chevy truck with a '88 camero WC T5 and a 11" clutch from a astro van. It is in mock up now with no flywheel or clutch junk, my question is I already cut the 1/2" off the input shaft for it to fit correctly but all the threads I see some say cut the coller and others dont mention it. I would like to put it together once after paint the right way the first time ,I know like that will happen, so should I also cut the coller? how much? Does it depend on the throwout bearing and clutch style? Thanks in advance
     
  22. Snarl
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,639

    Snarl
    Member

    Some don't mention it because they don't know how to give a complete answer to anything...


    Most Camaro T5's don't require shortening, but some do depending on application...


    And one more time...
    If you have a T5 that does need to be shortened, then you take about 3/8" off the tip of the input shaft, and about 1" off the bearing retainer. If you don't do this, the retainer will run into the back of the clutch disc.
    You also need to check that the disc will disengage from the flywheel by mocking up the trans and disc without the pressure plate in place. If you find that the disc binds, then you can either grind some off the back end of the disc, lengthen the splines on the shaft, or use an 1/8" thick spacer between the trans and bellhousing. Don't go thicker than that, or you will loose the centering of the bearing retainer to bellhousing.
    There is also a company out there that makes a $150 spacer which will allow you to use the longer input T5 without modifications.

    Also, run a 1/2" drill bit through the 4 trans mounting holes.
     
  23. Snarl
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,639

    Snarl
    Member

    Are you using the stock '50 bellhousing and clutch linkage, or something else?
     
  24. trad27
    Joined: Apr 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,197

    trad27
    Member

    So I guess my next xtep is too mock up the flywheel with the clutch disk but no pressure plate. One more question, I have seen the hydraulic throwout bearings for the T5. I would like to use one to free up some valuable pedal/steering room, any thoughts about them? will it work with the '63 pressure plate? If I use a standard throwout bearing which one would I use, T5 or '63 chevy and what fork? Thanks again
     
  25. Snarl
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,639

    Snarl
    Member

    Using master and slave cylinders would be much preferable to a hydro throwout bearing. It can usually be done for less money, less likely to fail and leak, and doesn't require pulling the trans to service if it does go bad....

    The trans has nothing to do with throwout bearing length selection. That would be determined by the space you have to work with, which is determined by what fork, bellhousing, and pressure plate you use. If most of it is from a '63, then use a '63 throwout bearing. Most forks are interchangeable, as far as function within the bellhousing goes. Which one to try would depend more on how you intend to activate it.
     

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