'46 Chevrolet truck with MII front and '55 Chevy car rear, 283/4-speed If I install rear discs (S10/Malibu front discs), can I use the brake side of a 60-66 Chevy truck M/C to operate all four corners? I know I'll need a proportioning valve, but....will it wwork properly? Thanks for positive input!
I don't think it will move the volume needed, at the pressure needed, for 4 wheel disc. Most use a 1 1/8" bore and if I'm remembering, the brake side of that master is 7/8"
There's not much "traditional" about a M11 IFS, and discs front and rear, so why would you NOT want to use a properly sized dual master cylinder?
That Chevy PU MC has a 1&1/8 bore. It will work with a Prop. valve to work your setup. Be prepared for the usual shit storm about the single/dual MC deal. Only you can make the decision on whether or not you should use one.
Beware also that with 4 wheel disks, you need to check the fluid level every now and then...the reservoir isn't real big, and as the pads wear, fluid moves from the m/c to the calipers. And you'll have all 4 calipers fed from one reservior. That's why normal disk/drum dual cylinders have a big reservoir for the front (disk) brakes
have photo of my rear brake system works fine from one side of chevy truck master.........will use other side master[operated from the one pedal] for front brakes when added.... found out that the autozone REBUILT masters use sleeves> thinking i could change size bore if needed........has good pedal as is tho....
Using one side for the front and the other for the rear won't work! I'm using the clutch side for just that...a clutch! I know MII discs are OT, as are rear discs, but the M/C I want to use IS traditional. So when I lift the hood side (if I run them at all) to let them eyeball my 6-deuce setup, the M/C will look the part! I was just wondering if it WOULD work! Not if it worked back in the day! Some things can be sacrificed, especially in the name of safety! Have you seen the drivers around here?!?!?!? Jeeeesh!
It moved more volume with the truck drums, so that's not an issue, pressure will be plenty, so yes, it'll work good. Wheter it needs proportioning valve depend on if area of rear piston is different than front. I would choose rear discs with less piston area then the fronts, might luck out and not need prop valve.
V8 Bob : Not so on the reservoir being to small if you have enough brains to check the fluid level more than every few years. Check it at every oil change and it won't be a problem. Removing the check will not hurt anything with disks on both ends. And how do you expect him to skip the hydraulic clutch ? Run a automatic? Sheesh !!
If you have enough brains you would not use a master cylinder that you have to monitor because of known shortfalls. Another "brakes take a back seat" because of ignorance. As far as the clutch, hydraulic is nice, but not necessary. Its not difficult to build a mechanical setup, and much cheaper. Sheesh! "Anyone else have an opinion on the question?" What, so you are going to build the brake system based on votes, and not sound safe enginnering? Good luck, and hope you are always in front of me on the road!
Use it. The reservoir capacity don't need to be enough that you never have to check it as the pads wear down. Check it at oil change, who don't anyhow?, you'll be fine.
OK I want to say ti won't work or how dangerous it is. But it appears that the only thing you have to worry about is keeping you reservoir full. I can think of a solution or two so that you can use the original and use one side for the front the other for the rear but that isn't what you want to know and it would probably be a pain anyway. As for unsafe I run douals and singles just depends on what I have available and how interested in adapting something that I wouldn't need to adapt otherwise. All brake systems can fail, period. Probably should make sure you have a functioning E Brake. I always try to do that, I guess it makes me a sissy. But no one could call me that if I wasn't still alive, if you catch my drift. But back to it sounds like you can use what you have. Keep safe
Damn...piss...piss ...pisss.....Since when did folks not check their master cylinders...? This thread is laughable...of course it will work. Just check your fluid. Geez....
That was funny....I pulled into a Churches Fried Chicken in Dallas to go to work about 1974 The emergency brake came in handy...The M/C failed as I pulled in....I bumped the building and my boss came outside and said...Bob, what the hell you doin'....I said well, I used the building to stop ....sorry, I haven't checked my EBrake in a while...He says, Bob don't do that again. I say, well I need to take a look at my M/C.....Took a look and it needed fluid...LOL
I pulled into the local community college about 6 years ago in my Galaxie. I was running a little late for a class so I was still cruising about 25 in a 5 MPH parking lot. When I was aimed at the parking spot I mashed the peddle all the way to the floor. Took a stab at the E brake and discovered that reverse was my last and only option. Damn Ford builds a tough slush box. I was going to adjust the E brake the following day. E brakes have saved my hyde more than once. I've had brakes fail on cars that I knew for a fact they were up to par.
What porknbeaner said; Brake failure ain't a safety issue unless the driver has his head up his ass. Don't tail-gate, pay attention, etc. In over 55 years of drivin' I have never had a brake malfunction that went immediately from (working good) to (no brakes at all). Failure comes gradually, even with a busted line. Master cylinders failure is progressive. Recognize the symptoms of impending problems, CHECK THE FLUID LEVEL once a year, etc. When the pedal goes to the floor, don't shut your eyes and pray, pump the fukker and latch onto the E-brake. No E-brake? I can make a long list of other things some people do that are just plain stupid. I'm goin' out to the garage and play.
Busted spring from rebuild kit...can hurt in hurry...not really having head stuck anywhere in particular...but a springs break...excuse the pun...
You didn't say if it was power brakes but without a booster you will need lots of leg to get four wheel disks to stop. Better reinforce the steering column 'cause you will be pulling up on the wheel for leverage.
I got a warning when my rear line failed, unfortunately the 500 modern cars driving all around me don't give a fuck if my brakes are about to go out, they still cut you off to be first at a red light. I had to jump up onto the sidewalk to avoid a collision. If you open your hood, I can see the mustang II control arms, and the subterfuge is over anyway. I just don't understand why looking the part is more important than using the best part for the job. But I don't grease my hair, play in a band or pose for photos.
I'm not into "looking the part" and forsaking safety. If I was, I would not have asked the question. Also, you would have to really get your head into the engine bay to see the control arms. The M/C is sticking out at you from 30 feet away with the hood sides off or the hood raised. BTW, I'll be running radials, too. I intend to drive it alot and I don't like ill handling or flat spots. Project #2......that's another story!
Now that's funny I'm going to run bias plys on my parts hauler and radials on my hot rod. But I did have to greas my hair for an interview just the other day. It wasn't by choice my hair looked like an explosion in a steel wool factory.
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