I've only painted 1 car in my life and it didn't turn out too good. I want to paint my car with Lacquer being you can sand out runs and imperfections (correct me if I'm wrong) I'm going to sand blast the whole car before doing the body repair. I need to get primer on right after the sand blast. Is there primer compatible with lacquer that comes in a rattle can? I don't have a paint gun yet.
Rattle can primer won't give you the results you want.Buy yourself a spray gun and if you don't have a compressor you can rent one. After going through all of the work of stripping and prepping the body don't spoil it with spray cans.
1st off dont sand blast car .You can warp the panels very easily .Paint stripper and da And then metal prep .Dont ever use rattle can primer ,The paint can sometimes lift .I admire your desire ,Here is what you need to do .Buy a one horsepower compressor and a real good spray gun ,A long board of the manual type .Thats the way I started out .If you can afford a bigger compressor go for it ,,,,,,
I have I nice big 80 gal 2 stage compressor, there is no paint on the car (see avatar) its basically covers with rust. I'll invest in a spray gun, any suggestions? I cant afford 1 of those high dollar units being on a budget, is there anything worth buying under $100?
There are a number of knock offs of Binks and Devilbiss on the internet that are under 100.00. Shop around and check the reviews.I have one that I use for primer that works really well.
I would never rattle can primer again, did it to a 61 Falcon in Phoenix then took it to Oklahoma, didnt look to perty after a while.
sandblasting is a must. have it done by someone with experience. then use epoxy primer. use a new mask and proper ventilation. local parts store or home depot type store sell cheap paint guns that would work fine.
Why use Lacquer? Use Base/Clear Coat. If you get runs you can also sand them out. "Don't SANDBLAST" unless you want to spend hrs laying bondo & blocking. Take time & sand the car. I use 80 grit with a DA. I use a 2k primer & a cheep gun (for the primer) from Harbor Freight about 25 bucks. For a good gun plan on spending $100 or more, or borrow one from a friend. Remember 3 things when doing body work & paint 1: take your time, 2: Don't buy cheep (like rattle can paint) 3: If you screw up don't give up, try again & learn from your mistake. Rattle can paint is good for 1 thing only that is using it as a guide coat when you are blocking.
what you need to do is have the body professionally media blasted. Then shoot in some good epoxy primer or etching primer. You can buy a mid grade quality gun that will get you buy. Your trusted local paint jobber can run you through the process of painting your car. i wouldnt use lacquer paint its very time consuming and takes some work to do. use base coat clear coat for best results.
A "sub-question" for this thread. Maybe some of you with experience can answer this. My son was telling me that our local paint store will mix 2 part primers and put them in spray cans. Good for smaller jobs. What sez you'all?
I've had enamel car paint put in spray cans before, and it worked very well (one time used it to paint a firewall to match the body of a car, another time to paint a motorcycle.) I don't know about two part primer - maybe it would work if you used it right away, but otherwise wouldn't it harden in the can?
Good used paint guns can be found on craigslist for reasonable money, I've seen Iwata's for 150 bones, they retail at about $450. If thats still too high dollar for you the old Binks No. 7's can be found for $10-40. They spray reasonably well if you're not going to be spraying metalics. I have one I use for upholstery glue and on the odd occasion primer.
Supposedly, you have a month or so because of the lack of air. But that is why I'm asking for anyone with experience.
lacquer is fine but around here its more$ than b/c.also its thin and MANY coats are needed to be able to make it look as good.then dont forget it dulls quick,which means rubbing it out alot to keep it shinny.i have used cheep-exp.guns.to me there isnt much difference.if i were you just get one of the cheep kits from HF,lowes,depot and play around with the primer.def.use some 2k primer if your trying to make it look nice,and fill in the imperfections.i dont use a da except to strip cars.for me its too easy to {dig}i use blocks and paint stir-sticks.yes it takes awile but you can watch what you are doing IMO.good luck.
When you put laquer on, do you need to buff up a shine before clearcoating or do you buff the clearcoat for the shine?
If you do a search, there's lots of info, AND contoroversy about the merits of lacquer vs enemel and modern paints. Also a lot of hints, and tips on using it. If you are going to lacquer the car, why use spray cans to primer it? You're going to need a spray gun eventually anyway! I picked up a brand new Finishline HVLP from smartshoppersinc.com for under a hundred. You can get a tip set for primer and a set for paint, too. Use good paints all the way through. Even if you use lacquer primer (Yuck!). Just getting runs out of your finish is not a good enough reason to use lacquer. AND there are different brands, and quality lacquers as well. Do more research before making such an important decision.
I always thought the laquer paint was good foe screw ups, thats why i wanted to go that way, being a novice I know Im gonna get some run or flat spot etc. The First car I painted was enamel with hardener in it and I was told it was easyest to paint but I still has some bad spots. I'll do a little more reaearch on the paint. as far as the guns go, I see there are 2 major types: the standard quart cup under the gun and the newer HVLP with the cup on top. as a novice and for all purpose what would be better? I found a few on Craigslist here http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/tls/2006854666.html http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/tls/1997126810.html http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/tls/1994514707.html http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/tls/1962317760.html http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/tls/1955880770.html http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/tls/1955500014.html http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/tls/1955493175.html http://stcloud.craigslist.org/tls/2021602213.html Which one would best suit for primer and paint? Thanx everyone for your input I really appreciate it
Instead of sandblasting how about renting a soda blaster. works very well and doesn't tear up the metal. Harbor Freight has a few guns that are cheap and work well. CHUCK
HVLP requires less pressure (High Volume Low Pressure) so if you don't have a giant compressor you can get decent spray quality at a pressure far lower than an old style gun that will drain your compressor in 60 seconds flat. If you have a giant compressor all of them will do the trick just fine. I would recommend the sharp in your list of craigslist finds. The ingersol rand would probably do well too, although i haven't sprayed with one of those guns. If you can find a cup for it the Binks would be a good choice too. good luck.
If you are going to paint it outside, go buy the harbor freight HVLP gun and have at it. You can get some cheaper paints from TCP Global and a few other online sources or get PPG ShopLine if your supply store carries it. Read (a lot) on here and get some books and learn to do it yourself if you can't afford to have it done. I love show quality paint jobs, but cannot justify the expense ( not saying it's not worth it) because I am a cheap ass.
Well after doing some research as well as your input I opted for the Sharp, the fellow is a professional auto painter, said he has a lot more into this gun but couldn't get used to it. but for me learning I would be starting out fresh. so Im going to pick it up. Thanks for all the input.
good choice on the sharp, It'll last a long time and parts will be available if something wears out. the HF or other cheap guns will last a month and be useless after that.
Its the Platinum model 3015, he said he had about $400 into it after getting the smaller 1.3 tip. didn't com with the regulator or aluminum cup though, but still I think a got a good deal.
Don't spray clearcoat over Laquer paint. Any professional paint supply sells etch primer in spray cans in several colors. It is used for patch repairs but I keep cans handy for when I sand areas down to bare metal and they will sit for a few days before I get back to them. It is a little pricey but worth it for the convienience of not having to mix then clean the gun. Used quality guns are better than new cheap stuff.
I did mine outside just a week ago , it's all color sanded and buffed , I used TPC global BC/CC. I would recomend epoxy primer on the bare metal. The good thing about BC/CC is you can sand after you color it and sand after the clear. I had bugs and dust in my clear and a few runs , it all sanded out but a few bug legs and looks good , total cost was about 350.00 for materials including sand paper. thats not a big body so 1/2 gallon of color and clear will do 3 coats each so you have plenty of material to sand off if you screw up. At TPC global you could get a single stage enamel for probably 40.00 for a half gallon, that can be color sanded.
Sharpe guns are good middle of the road guns and you'll be happy with their customer service. You can shoot clear lacquer over lacquer color. One reason to do this would be if you sprayed a metallic color and you don't want mottling by color sanding through different layers of the metallic. I unfortunately speak from experience. Another potential reason to use lacquer is that you stated you are going to spray in the driveway and the overspray will be dry dust by the time it lands on anything other than your car...like your neighbor's car. On the downside the quality of lacquer is not nearly as good as when the manufacturers were allowed to add lead to it so expect it to chip in a heartbeat and have less UV resistance than newer paints. Have fun!