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Removing Paint

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Invicta, Oct 23, 2010.

  1. Invicta
    Joined: Sep 14, 2009
    Posts: 162

    Invicta
    Member

    Just wondering, Whats the best ways to remove all the paint from my car?
    I want to get her to the bare metal. Thanks.
     
  2. kenseth17
    Joined: Aug 16, 2005
    Posts: 69

    kenseth17
    Member

    I use a combination of methods stripping at home with limited equiptment, as there are different areas that a certain method just seems to work best.
    For large exterior panels, I like to use a 8" orbital (national detroit mud hog) with 36 grit and switch to 80 when I am getting near metal, and finish up sanding the metal and getting it clean with 80 grit on a 6" da. But first try a razor(blade) scraper. If the paint happens not to be adhering greatly and you can get it started, then this is often a quick, least messy way of doing removing most of the paint. Worth a try first to see if it works at all to remove your paint.

    I hate stripper because its messy, can get into areas not wanted (usually good idea to duct tape off seams and cracks to prevent stripper from getting in there and remove those areas by sanding or some other method. Also Hazardous fumes (where proper respirator and proper ventilation) and must be properly neautralized. If stripper gets caught up in a seam somewhere and doesn't get neautralized properly, then that can mean coming out later and bubbling new expensive paint. To properly use stripper, it should be brushed on heavy, only one direction, and allowed to work, and not dry out (some like to cover with saranwrap). Then scrape with a putty knife or razor scrapper. Often takes a few applications and a little sanding with a da and 80 grit to get all the paint.

    Then other areas media blasting just works the best. Stuff like hinges, braces, ect and parts with lots of nooks and crannys that would be tough to sand, but there is not much worry about the piece warping. Little home sandblasters and smaller compressors, can take forever to get anywhere media blasting, but helps to have it for smaller areas.

    And sometimes about the only thing that works and you can get to an area is by good old hand sanding.

    But maybe it may be easiest to take it and pay to have it media blasted, and then arrange for it to be epoxy primed asap to prevent rusting. Media gets everywhere, but if you can find an experience operator who can guarentee they won't warp and sheetmetal, and if you can break down to a shell, so you don't have to worry about media getting in vents, window tracks, bearings ect, this might be the easiest way with the least risks of later having a ruined expensive paint job. Some media blasting places are fairly reasonable for the amount of labor you will end up saving having to do. I'd avoid soda blasting, risky if they are not very skilled and know how to properly neautralize it, and it won't remove any rust. Having it dipped would be risky as well, for the same reason as stripper if it didn't get all properly neutralized.

    Whatever method you use, protect the bare metal right away by getting epoxy primer on it. But the best safest way to go to seal the new clean metal and have good compatability with other products as you continue on. As long as the metal is clean, and has been sanded or blasted for proper tooth, start with an epoxy foundation, and forget any acid containing products.
     
  3. Retro Jim
    Joined: May 27, 2007
    Posts: 3,854

    Retro Jim
    Member

    Well I had Clark on the HAMB show me a way of removing paint and works very well too . I used a razor blade ! It works very well on old paint and does a very good job too . I did a 55 Ford in a week doing it about 3 hours a night . A hell of a lot cheaper than sanding or paint remover . You also only need one hand to do it with . That leaves you with a spare hand.......to hold a cold beer ! Well that's what Clark told me !
    Really it did a great job and it's really easy to do .

    Retro Jim
     
  4. Beebeebobby
    Joined: Sep 5, 2010
    Posts: 224

    Beebeebobby
    Member
    from Webb City

    I suppose if you didn't want to hold your own beer...a lovely lady could be the next best thing...:eek:
     

  5. gafridge
    Joined: Oct 23, 2007
    Posts: 162

    gafridge
    Member

    I have done it with a razor and d.a. sander,but lately I have used my right angle grinder with a 3m paint stripper disc part #03171 or 03172.It doesn't take much pressure and it You can do your whole car with one or two discs,don't spin it real fast.I did my 48 ford with two discs,one other thing I do is push my car outside to do this so the dust is not all in my shop.After this go over it with the d.a..Hope this helps. Stony
     
  6. chevyshack
    Joined: Dec 28, 2008
    Posts: 950

    chevyshack
    Member

    a set of torches! let me know how that works before i try it. kidding. I use a palm sander with 36 grit anti-clog sand paper. Ive tried the chemical toute and it just makes a big mess and takes more then one application usually.
     
  7. plodge55aqua
    Joined: Jan 4, 2009
    Posts: 1,710

    plodge55aqua
    Member
    from Alberta

    sometimes you can use 80 sandpaper to give a opening for the stripper to bite quicker, Ever tried Aluminum foil tape on the seams and gaps.. apply stripper,then 36 inch paper over the striper, it holds the strength of the stripper to the panel, does not evaporate.. pull back a edge of the paper and check what has wrinled up.. pull the paper, most of the product will stick to the paper.. roll up the paper and toss it..
     
  8. You would need 2 hands to hold a lovely lady. :D:D
     
  9. 39 All Ford
    Joined: Sep 15, 2008
    Posts: 1,530

    39 All Ford
    Member
    from Benton AR

    Aircraft remover makes quick work of most old paints, just hard to argue with easy.

    If you have lots of rust, think about having everything blasted.
     
  10. Invicta
    Joined: Sep 14, 2009
    Posts: 162

    Invicta
    Member

    Thanks for all the great tips!
     
  11. thesupersized
    Joined: Aug 22, 2004
    Posts: 1,367

    thesupersized
    Member

    definitely the 3m strip discs....the may cost i think like 10 dollars each, but you only need a few to do a whole car, totally worth it.
     
  12. j1927t53
    Joined: Oct 13, 2008
    Posts: 31

    j1927t53
    Member
    from colorado

    I recently stripped my touring. I used aircraft stripper, a paint scraper, and a grip of steel wool. It worked good but i did have to do 2 or 3 applications of the stripper. Got a bit pricey. Just remember to wear gloves and a long sleeve shirt because it'll burn your hands and wrists up really good. My girl didnt want me to hold her with the hands I had during that process.
     

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