push pull, F100 or mustang?

Is a Mustang steering box with the pittman arm upwards inherently more prone to bump steer than the f-100 box with the pittman arm pointing downwards, or does it not make any difference? In my opinion, it looks nicer with the drag link more parallel to the bones/hairpins, just wondering if it is more difficult to minimize bump steer with this arrangement.

 

I think Fatman Fabrications makes tie-rod ends that are spaced down more. I need to read up a little more. My F100 seems to have some bump steer.

 

I have done a couple of cars with Mustang Push Pull - No bump AT ALL! and they drive like power steering. Very nice

 

I would guess that the closer you have the drag link to parallel with the radius rods, and the closer they are to the same length the better? To be honest, I have minimal (like ZERO!) experience with doing chassis work on earlier cars, lots of experience with sixties era stuff, including some fairly extensive chassis work, so my learning curve is going to be steep here. Thanks for the help.

 

Here:

 

It shouldnt make a difference, bump steer is for the most part unrealated to turning, it is more related to suspention movement up and down. the most important thing to remember is to try to draw a line from your steering arm to your pivot on your wishbone and try to keep your pivot on your pitman arm inbetween them. It is typically impossable, but try to keep it closer than most cars

The best thing to do on suspentions is remember your angles and use common sence, on a straight axle setup its all common sence

 

Kinda if you can achieve that that is good enough for most people, but you have to remember that the steering arm ontop your brake is above the center line of your rad rod, so actually you should be above the rad rod

 

VERY helpful. All good info, thanks guys. Looks like the shorter the drag link, the worse the mustang setup will be on rebound. Food for thought...

 

I just noticed that you said Bones or Wishbone, I have only done the Mustang with 4 bar - Sorry

 

Yes, I am thinking split and drilled bones, 4" dropped drilled I-beam, which DOES complicate matters. Circa '66-'67 theme. Just tossing ideas around in my mind, in the early planning stages right now. A buddy is doing a '67 fairlane, has a 4 door '66 parts car I can probably snag the box out of, and, as I mentioned, I think this set-up looks nicer on a fenderless car.

So, who has run the mustang box with split bones want to share their experience? How did it pan out?

 

When I look at my original post, I should have been clearer, it IS kind of vague.

 

The more I look at the diagram, read Shaggys first post and think about this, the more I am having doubts. Maybe I should make a really good scale drawing and really look at this.

 

Just look at some pro cars and decide if you are close or better than them. Especially stuff that handels good, if you dig through the old mags you will find some really bad stuff, but much of that was regularly driven. I'm trying to help, but i'm certainly not a suspention genious, ive just read everything that comes my way, and looked at my suspention and tried to apply it

 

"try to draw a line from your steering arm to your pivot on your wishbone and try to keep your pivot on your pitman arm inbetween them."

Well, it was your comment above, as well as noting in the drawing that gimpyhotrods posted that it is worse on rebound, that caused me some concern. So you hit a bump the front end pulls right on the way up, as it comes down and passes through its normal ride height and goes to rebound, it will pull right again. That does not look good. The F100 setup looks much better, but I am still mulling it over. I need to work it out in scale, to see just how much the two arcs will actually differ.

But I would like to hear from guys that have run this set-up, I know they are out there.

Anybody? Push/pull mustang box with split bones?

 

I sometimes write things confusing, so just to make sure we are on the same page and to elimanate any confusion, the "pivot on the pitman arm" i mentioned is not where it comes out of the box, but the tierod end itself.

 

Do the f100 box I had to redo a av8 with a mustang box and bones it took alot of time I got it to about 90%

 

Yup, thats what I figured you meant, we are on the same page.

 

Thanks Khaunaa, thats what I am leaning towards. I realize either set-up will have SOME amount of bump-steer, but the mustang set-up, or any setup with the pitman arm up, looks to be inherently worse.

 

this is the arm i had to make for the av8 as i remember it was in around 8 inches tall but the car did not have a droped axel but still more of a pain in the ass than it's worth