EMS, my taillight area appears to have been in a wreck many years ago. It was pulled out but its extremely dented and cut in areas.
thanks for the additional purchase(via one of our dealers: hot rods worldwide) your 49/50 chev 1/4 panel was sent today from our cleveland factory warehouse.
Hey olazguy, those clamps are available at harbor freight, eastwood, and many others. EMS....been trying to see about being a dealer or at least get a shop discount...
Well Hellfire let me know that he ordered Mr Gambino's notch kit and Monday I'll get the front set up from JW Rod Garage. I'll post some step by steps on the mustang two install and the notch.
NTX, Here are some photos of my driver's side quarter. The whole area is pretty hammered, but I can purchase a replacement piece for the bottom of the quarter. I need to cut open the seam on top of the tail light, whoever did it before welded it up cock eyed. I'm also going to remove the square they added over the gas door and do it correctly.
sorry to jump in here.but I am doin the samething got EMS panels also the pinch weld flange is in wrong spot. what did you do with it?
glad I ran across this thread, good to see another 52 in DFW! I put on EMS panels on my rockers and lower quarters too, they are great quality! I didnt use the pinch weld spot, use the cut out the areat that needs to be replaced, lay it on the new panel and cut out what you need, then butt weld it. (leave a little extra then test fit and cut more if needed).
we understand the issue, and will start to produce a design estimante, the outer is easy bit the inner side of the taillight hole is gonna be tough but how big does the inner side need to be
Well now...we got the passenger side rear quarter installed... Ah chop! chop! back side toss it on there and make it fit hammer weld and finish out
Hey thanks! means a lot. You guys over there at Hatfield's are doing a terrific job too...we're very blessed to be doing what we do
That looks great! The aluminum work is AMAZING. I'm glad wea re moving right along. Tyler did you get the tailpan when I wordered all the replacement panels? I cant remember if I ordered it or not. Keep up the great work! This is true motivation.
Yes sir the tailpan is here at the shop, we're planning on installing it when we make your trunk pans. By the way, do mind if we eliminate your spare tire well or do you want it there?
Our goal is to start on the frame in the next couple of days. The Gambino notch came in a week ago and the front set up from JW Rod Garage showed up yesterday. We'll post as we go.
So we started on the suspension with the notch kit yesterday. This part can be done on the floor without any bracing and is an easy and straight forward procedure for those of you at home. Sgt. Hernandez wants to put the car down with bags so the notch was needed. For the time being we will just use de-arched springs and lowering blocks to get him down the road. Tomorrow we plan on having the car on the rack and install the Mustang IFS... Clean your frame rails and use a plumb bob to mark your axle center We like to drill some holes to plug weld for added piece of mind Weld up the bottoms good and leave the inner frame sections un-welded for removal Install your top hats and weld them up solid Sawzall ya'll rough cut Weld up the bottom and there you go...now repeat on the other side
Just a quick question, Are yall centering the wheels in the rear wheel well or going with the stock location...
Well since this IFS kit is so simple to install and the frame is in great shape and square we decided to go ahead and install the kit on jack stands. We made sure the frame was level then... we marked the spindle center on the floor with a plumb bob make sure you have the spindles exactly perpendicular to the frame Snap a chalk line to the two center points one on each side and then using the plump again mark the inside of the frame off the chalk line On chevys of this style the front suspension bolts in and is easy to remove. In our case the bolts were all worn and froze with rust so out came the torch Along with the suspension there are set of strengthening brackets for the last two bolts of suspension crossmember that will have to be removed. This will leave you with a clean frame free from any obstructions I like to grind a small notch into the rails were you marked the center line at. Doing so will give you a exact reference point in case the frame moves or the marks get ground or burned off Now mark the center of the kit's crossmember, the hats are already marked from the factory. Locate the cross member on the frame, adjust side to side and tack in place. Set the hats on top of the rails making sure left and right are on the correct side, locate to center, and tack Next is to get the body back on the frame. We will cut out the trunk area to clear the notch and put on the front sheet metal to make sure we're happy with the spindle location.
this has been fun to work on! my brother has a 52 we've been workin on for a while doin all the small stuff, and workin on this one is gonna really help when we tear his down for the full treatment!
i ran into that on this one on both sides. all i did is cut off the bottom section at the line where the curve stops and the flat underside starts and took out a few inches. butt welded it back up and spot welded the pinch. a little extra work, but looks factory when youre done. over all i like the quality of the ems panels. a little work with the shrinker stretcher and planishin hammer and these are nice and smooth! fitment is never perfect with any aftermarket panels, but these are as close as it gets!
man tyler is a bad mofo when he gets on the shaping!! im glad i finally got a gig wit someone i can learn somethin from!!
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