Yeah, but at least the oldies weren't made in China.... Far as I know the slot mags I have are all Made in the USA. The one orphan five spoker in the bottom pic of my post a couple posts above is made in Japan. Looks like excellent quality.
sence you seem to know way way more about slots then i will ever know could you give me a guess what brond these ones of mine are there 16X12s & have no names cast into them on rear just some searal numbers they do have Ansen sprint caps heres a couple pics
Cool thread, love slots. I knew they made 14" wide slots, didnt know they 15" wide ones. But when I seen these slots on ebay a 1 yr agao I had to have them. They measure 17" wide and have a 4" backspaceing. Iwas told Eric Vaugn of real wheel made them around 20yrs ago. They have ansen casted in the back and say 15x ? They do not have the other number.
I got these 10x15 wery light wheigth whats strange is the lugs. look like ordinary lugnuts but they have a wery shalow cone maby 5 degres newer seen it before and a bad system. Lost one rearwheel doing 60 mph not so funny any one know the brand that used those lugnuts?
awesome thread (AND site!) ive been searching (for the common???) for one more 14 X 7 slot mag for my 71 datsun wagon. 4 X 114.4 my WTB request. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5026279#post5026279
I don't know if anyone else saw this, but here is a slick way I have found to re-finish old mag wheels including slots: Here is a thread about re-finishing aluminum wheel lips on old mag wheels that have severe oxidation or curb rash. I use my air powered D/A or "dual action" sander to sand off all the blemishes, and then I spin the wheel in a home made fixture to give the wheels their final finish. Here is our candidate wheel. It has had some repairs done on the lip, and it also has pretty good oxidation: Here are the basic tools and materials needed: -Dual action sander. -40, 80, 100, and 180 grit sanding discs. I start off with a 40 grit disc and go to town sanding on the wheel lips making sure to keep the sander moving. It will remove some material, but it is not as aggressive as you might think: After a few minutes, this is how the wheel will look. You can see the swirl marks left by the sander, but the scratches, rash and oxidation are now completely gone: I next move on to the 80 grit disc. The 80 grit disc will remove far less material than the 40 grit, but it will make finer sanding marks on the wheel. Here is the wheel after the 80 grit disc: The next part of the process will need some sort of fixture that will spin the wheel. I don't have a lathe big enough to accept a wheel, so I had to invent something. I made a simple fixture out of an old spindle and hub. It bolts to an I-beam that is attached to the back of my lathe. The wheel will bolt to this fixture. The fixture has a pivot on the bottom that allows the the whole assembly to pivot: The chuck on my lathe has a pneumatic tire and wheel assembly mounted in it. When the power on the lathe is turned on, the pneumatic tire spins in the chuck. The spindle assembly is pivoted so the wheel makes contact with the spinning tire, and the wheel now spins in the opposite direction. The wheel does not spin very fast, but it is fast enough to allow some finish work with sandpaper. By grabbing the top of the spindle, you can control how much contact pressure there is between the wheel and the pneumatic tire: You can also make a similar fixture using an electric motor to spin the pneumatic tire, or mount a wheel in a balancing machine. Use your imagination. Now that we have a spinning wheel, we need to do some finish work by hand. I go back to 40 grit sandpaper and hold it against the wheel as it spins. At this point you can also do the horizontal surface and the other vertical surface. You will want to repeat this process with 80 , 100 120 and finally 180 grit sandpaper. The more time spent with each grit will yield better results: Here is the wheel after some 80 grit on the spinning wheel: Here is the finished wheel after the final sanding with 180 grit: I have used this process on dozens of wheels with the same excellent results. Wheels with a raised rib on the wheel lip can also be done, but it will require a little more care when sanding with the D/A so as not to knock down too much of the rib. Here is another E.T. wheel I did: I finished a set of E.T. big and littles today (14x6) and (15x7) using the same process I described above: I also finished the lip of a 15 x 8 1/2 Torq Thrust wheel today that was really rough: Here is what I accomplished today, a 15 x 7" Fenton Gyro that was trashed:
I need to build a fixture like this for my lathe, I have a stack of old aluminum wheels; slots, Torq Thrust type, etc.
I have 15x8 Ansen wheels on the back of my car. Is it possible to mill down the backspace another 1/8 or 1/4 inch? I only need a little bit to make the tires fit just right. Any thoughts on this would be welcome. Thanks
I'm sold on the 3/16" thick lug nut washers C9 mentioned at the start of this thread and I've seen them mentioned on another post as well. However, I can't find them anywhere. The Centerline website doesn't list them and a call to Centerline got me nowhere I sent C9 a message but haven't received a reply yet. Does anyone know where to get these? I came across some slotted wheels (probably Appliance or Western - they have part numbers cast in but no brand) for my 57 GMC (6 lug) and I feel strongly about having some thick washers between the aluminum and the 1/8" narrow washer on the lug nut shanks.
No way. Those wheels back then used junk aluminum. Not like the better billet aluminums they use today. I would be concerned about lateral pressures when going around a turn. Plus those wheels need to be torqued down and I would bet the centers would crack or get stress cracks at least if torqued properly.
I just got a pair of these for free from a building that was to be torn down. No brand markings but 15X8.5 cast in the back. L-60 bias plys with very good tread but hard as a rock.About 3 3/8 back space.
I am truly sorry to hear that. I have read several of his posts and it was clear to me he knew what he was talking about and I'm thankful we have his contribution to this forum.
OP, Would you please put all your posts in one and PM me because I want to save this at home for history. EXCELLENT INFO by me!! pdq67 PS., my Fenton 14" x 9" and 7" slotted mag's with still mounted L- and E-60's on them are up on my top shelf out in my garage now. Fwiw, my L-60/14's are big Mutha's at a modern 298/53-14 measured!!!! They fit just fine on my '67SS'RS Camaro car after I used coil-overs to raise her up say, 4"s or so!!
That is interesting. I have Eric do all my aluminum wheel work. I asked him one time if he could widen a slot and he told me couldn't do it because he could not get the parts. Maybe 20 years ago he could get the rim parts to do it. Those look like wheels that have been added to on the inside and outside. What is the backspacing? If he put a 3.5 lip on the inside and outside, onto a 10 inch rim that would give a 17" wheel.
oops...I see they are 4" back. I don't know how he made those. He told me once about taking 4 and making 2 wide ones. I bet this is the set.
Yea the guy I got them off ebay told me all my facts dont know if they are true. I guess growing up reading CarToons magazines and big tires and motors, I had to have them I wonder how much they would cost to build today? They are very nicely made, and the biggest set of slot's I have ever seen. Plan on running Hooiser radials, 33 x 21.50 x 15, and they stretch to fit on the wheel Would luv to have some old low profile bluestreaks, you see on the old showrods.
Yea, that what he must have done. I bet Eric could still do that. If he would try it again, I don't know. I'll be talking to him soon about some other business. I'll ask him. I have a pair of 15x14 that I bought here on the list that I had him clean up and sent on to have polished. I have 33x22.5 Hoosier street slicks on them. I think they are the earliest type because they take the cap that looks like a hockey puck, that pushes in from the front. Supposedly the first year ansen made these was in 63. I've never seen a catalog that early so I can't verify. All the ads I have seen are mid 60's or later and use the eared caps with screws. Seeing your wheels makes me want a wheel even wider but I'm going to have a difficult time using what I have and getting it to look the way I want it to without something even bigger.
Hi I to have many slot and 5 spoke wheels and wound up with 2 14" x 10" slot mags however one is 5 on 4.5 and the other is 5 on 4 3/4 wierd! Should I unilug one or what? I also have several pairs that I would trade for torq thrust style if anyone would be interested. Love all your info! Bob
Here is a pic of one of my rear wheels. I think if you had 4 14" wide wheels you might be able to build 2 that were 20 or 21" wide. It would be a shame to do that though unless the two you were going to cut up for parts were damaged badly.
picked up these wheels... here are some pics.. this is the other guys truck with these wheels on. the rear measures at 10.5 wide. Dont know much about them, I need to clean the rear up to see what the markings are.
Does anyone know what type of wheel this is? I can't find anything on the ones with 6 slots instead of 5. I'm also looking for a set of slotted mags if anyone knows of any around. 15x10 5/4.5 15x7 5/4.75 Thanks, KK
Those are American Dragmasters, usualy you find those in a 14 X 7 width but they did make a 15 inch version too.
The Jalopy Journal
