Anybody ever use a laser level for an accurate cut line for a top chop?

Just wondered if anybody has used a laser level for a top chop, section, or any other application that requires an accurate cut line. Thoughts, comments, suggestions, pictures. Dave

 

How wide is a laser line ?

 

It depends on how far from the object it is placed, the one I've got is about 1/16 of an inch at about 10 to 12 feet

 

I cannot comment on a lazer line but what I have found to work the best is cutting the amount to be chopped out of poster board. The marking it with tape approach yields inconsistent lines & spacing of the amount to be chopped. I tape the poster board strip to the car then chop/remove the roof then take out the body portion. I have yet to drop the roof back onto the body and have any significant varying gaps where they meet.

just my .02

 

why does this sound wrong?

kinda like eating fried chicken with silverware, fork and knive...

 

Not to bash anyone but I think that alot of the "newer technology" has no place to be used on building a traditional car. I'm just sayin'...... I guess that it'd kinda be like, "well I can do it but I could drop it off at a shop and pick it up when it's done" If that's the case then your missing the boat. I just want to assure everyone that I am not against new techniques and such, it's just that alot of times things are WAY too over engineered.

 

Well, it may work but you are going to first have to block the rig up dead nuts level. And it needs to be blocked so any weight addition or removal doesn't change it's position.

I think Kirk Hanning has the best suggestion with the patterns. A guy still could use the the lazer level to lay out the first side before making the pattern so that both sides match. I will make patterns so that the cuts on both sides match when I do the truck cab in a couple of months. That seems a lot better than running back and forth with a tape measure and sharpie trying to get both sides to match.

And sometimes that "new technology" tends to make things more complicated rather than less complicated. Referring to Kirk's post in post #6.

 

I believe Eddie Paul talks about using one in his sheet metal fabrication book which I'm unable to find at the moment. I wouldnt c y u couldnt use it.

 

I understand what you are saying, did the same but had a sheetmetal shop shear metal strips that I could clamp onto the body. You can scripe a good line top and bottom this way, I used machinest layout dye on the metal.

 

Unless you are chopping a model a, a laser wont help you.
Are you talking about those self leveling construction lasers?

 

Simply "wacking" an even 3-4-5" (whatever amount) usually won't leave you with an eye appealing chop. At a Winfield seminar, he first decided how much window area he wanted, then tried to adjust around so all the windows were proportioned somewhat. Then, he used cardboard templates as previously mentioned above. Since the cuts often end up on different planes, I would think the "high tech" laser might defeat the purpose somewhat.

I can believe it might be slick to laser the width, maybe to keep from getting the top on "lopsided", but again, some measuring and standing waaaaay back to get the big picture works fine. Stu

 

Good point. The laser will only indicate horizontal lines, and the cut-line on many cars won't be horizontal...such as on a late '40s Chevy with slanted B-pillars, and of course the A-pillars. The cut-line is usually made perpendicular to the angle of the pillar. The laser could possibly give you an accurate reference point, to match the left and right sides...but one point only. And as previously stated, the car better be level left to right to use this method.

I think the time-tested methods are probably best. <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

 

I agree with Mr. 48Chev and Kirk Hanning; Supertech tools are 'trick', and my borrowed laser shot a centerline down my frame jig that promised to be the end of the antiquated methods! ...Until I tried to plumb bob from the laser line. I could stand a square up, and eyeball the intersecting...Aw heck, I like the piano wire 'string centerline' better. It is Tangible.
Like Kirk, I have become accustomed to the use of white posterboard. (actually, Kodak thick 'photo stock')
My Fiskar shears and Uber-Skiver scalpels cut the templates even with the sideburn...
I like a silver 'Sharpie'. (also like silver welders' pencils) Red dye or Machinist's Bluing are excellent if you're going to scribe the lines, still some great ways for marking.
Your cuts will only be as accurate as your templates.

 

You would have to place the "victim" on a perfectly level platform, you would have to keep it completely stable, you would have to make several reference points to return to in the event the "victim" moved or you had to reposition the laser. Unless you have access to a high quality laser that can send an accurate tight line 500 feet and keep it 1/8" you most likely will only be adding more things to track and worry about while your adrenal glands are doing 240 over sawing up your ride, "or victim". If you are good with a laser go for it, if not I wouldn't add it to the agenda of the day. It's 99% art and eye, not so much science.

 

I used a laser when I chopped the top on my truck. After leveling the truck, I set the laser to shoot a line down the center of the hood, over the top and down the center of the bed. I then placed masking tape along this line. This made it easy to center the top when it was ready to weld back in place.

 

I completely disagree. Use what you can to make the job easier. In fact isn't that the definition of a tool?

Why should I take all day cutting out brackets with a torch and a grinder when I can have cleaner brackets in minutes from my cnc plasma? Do you own/use any tools that weren't commonly in use before 1959? Mig welders/tig welders/plasma cutters were NOT found in everyones garage.Where is the line drawn?

A laser can be used for a chop because you can mark off your end points and use the laser to mark a better line than guys that lay down tape with a tape measure. That being said, is it the best tool for it? I don't think so, because I use poster board too

 

measure it with a mic, mark it with chalk and cut it with an axe.

 

Then turn car upside down and drag it down the street to grind it flat. Repeat for roof but don't flip it over

 

I have a lazer that adjusts to any plane.
Not just level.
I would use it on a chop to get a "straight line"
not necessaily a level one.

 

I used a pair of jo blocks,A tailors tape and masking tape the witdth I was chopping it

 

damn-it , i knew there was something wrong.
i drink alot of beer & cut it twice.

 

It was interesting to see the replies, somehow "traditional" came into the picture, I could have anticipated that. I used a laser level, and before those a transit level (optical level) to establish a reference line/point back in the 80's. It seems that leveling a car or truck with a laser and then making a reference at several points on the body would be a great way to augment the more traditional ways of that same thing. I'm going to try it and see how it works. Thanks to all, I'll let you know how it turns out. Dave

 

There ya go, and if you want to get really fancy spray little paint over the masking tape, (I used duct tape) and pull the tape off. Seems like in the time it would take to get the car level and secured and set the laser level up, you would be putting the sawzall away.......