Question...is there a better tool to help align the die to the round stock or the other end of the bolt. My current setup is causing it to drift...and when the stud is spun , obviously it wobbles. The task is a bellhousing to a Ranger Overdrive ...I ended up choosing the best two of 5 that I made.
not liking the idea at all. Surely, there has to be a correct fastener for the application. Powertrain components must have proper alignment, and if the set-up has loose boltholes relying on alignment dowels, then what you've got is fine -rick
You're not starting the die square with the bolt. Might help to use a small level to get things started.
There is a better tool, it's called a lathe. Kind of expensive to buy. Maybe one of your buddies has one? or you could have a machine shop thread it.
I have seen and used a different die handle that has an adjustable 3 jaw alignment feature. I'd look on ebay or some tool site.
My die handle has the 3 jaw alignment feature, I've never been able to get it to thread perfectly straight...I use my lathe to start threads....
Hello Shortbed, I have found that by grinding a small bevel at the end to be threaded it makes starting the die easier. It works for me.
69fury the 5-1/8" bellhousing bore should be the alignment and it's a snug fit If I had a lathe there would be no question on the accuracy, but by hand it seems to be only for thread chasing F&J did the die handle look drastically different ? this one has 3 nubs squirrel Thanks ..at least I'm not the only one mickeyc thanks for the tip ...maybe if the bevel or chamfer was consistent then the drifting wouldn't be so drastic Gotta take notes and buy the right studs
Hate to tell ya, but it's kind of a lost cause. People have been trying tricks and fixtures and doodads to help the die start straight since the die was invented. The problem is simple- the die starts cutting on one tooth. Assuming a single-lead thread, the point of one tooth of the die always contacts the rod before anything else. That wants to force the die to one side, and if it's not absolutely correct, by the time you've made as little as one full thread, it's almost impossible to correct after that. Think of trying to drill a hole with a twist drill that only has one cutting lip. The cutting force is always off-balance. That said, there's a few tricks that can help. The best one, if the rod is short enough, is to chuck it in a drill press. Don't turn the press on, just use it to hold the rod straight. Lay the die on the table of the press and hold it in place with a wrench. Push the rod into the die, and either turn the drill spindle (by hand) or lock the spindle and turn the die using the wrench. Once it's well started (about three turns at least) you can take the rod out of the drill and slap it in a vise. Use a proper die handle to turn it the rest of the way, since turning it from one side with a wrench can get it crooked. Doc.
I JUST had this same problem last week, what I did to correct it was put the die in the vise and my rod (3/8 cold rolled) in my 1/2 drill and put the power to it. It came out perfect. Have someone keep pouring cutting fluid as you go cause she sure heats good. No more wobble in the thread. I'll never go back to doing it the old way again.
I place the die holder on the flat part of the drill table ( where you would clamp the piece you are going to drill ) ... and the piece I want to thread in the chuck ( like a drill bit ) I then feed the piece into the die holder and turn the chuck by hand under till I get 2 or 3 threads in the piece I want to thread. Works great. I worked in a machine shop years ago and a old timer showed me the trick. We had lathes ... but setting one up to cut threads ... took a lot more time than the way he showed me. NOW ... if you have 4 or 5 to do ... setting up the lathe is the way to go, but for one piece ( or two ) ( or if you do not have access to a lathe ) the old timers way works great. Now they have die holders to fit in the tail stock of a lathe. I have a friend who has a couple but I have not used them YET
I have used those die holders in a lathe and they work pretty good. Trying to use a die stock and holding the rod in a vise has never worked for me.
I've cut heaps of threads by hand, trick is to chamfer your stock first, enough so it goes into the die at least half way. this always works for me, you can cut or grind the chamfer off later if you don't need it.
Just curious...what makes this stud so special that you cannot just go buy one? McMaster-Carr is a good place to start looking. .
Plus, if you get one that's mass produced, it's most likely rolled instead of cut which gives you a bit more strength.
YUP, look at the first response up top. i'm all for doing it yourself to save a buck, but this seems pretty absurd to me. I'm not going to use a cookie sheet, a torch and a bucket of sand to replace windows either.... -rick
Where in northern Illinois are you? I have a trick, yeah, it's called a pipe threading machine, A Ridgid 300, I use it for threading gas pipe There is a minimum size that my machine can thread, maybe a 6, don't want to chuck down on the threads, I can make threaded rod with it, I can make a run thread or I can make thread as you have there. I do have a concern however about the bolts you are producing, In most cases the bolts are threaded as not yet heat treated specimens, they eat dies otherwise, so the bolt is cut and then goes to the heat treating process, for maximum strength you want the bolts to be run this way. Cutting a treated bolt kills the heat treat. You can get these threaded at almost any ace hardware store or the home despot.
Classic! I bet if you ask nice enough, you could send the part and a ten dollar bill to a H.A.M.B. member with a lathe and they would thread it for you.
Here's a thought. If you are starting with round stock, cut your blank about 1 inch longer than needed. Grind the first 1 inch down to the pitch diameter (the tap drill size you would use to tap that size hole). This will align your die with the shaft. When you are done, cut to length. I do this when cutting threads on a lathe. I call it a "run-off" tab. When my cutting tool just touches the stepped down portion, I know my threads are the correct depth.
I couldn't help but laugh when I took these pictures, but you can do this and make it work. I give you the thumbs up for giving it a shot, those of us on the Hamb that are do-it-yourselfers appreciate what your trying to do on your own no matter how crazy it sounds. Not everyone has a lathe, but often a drill press. The first picture shows that if you apply pressure with the handle of the press with a piece of stock between the chuck and the die handle you can get it relatively straight. If the stock fits in the chuck, you can use that as your alignment gauge, then clamp it all down in place. You might be wondering if I'm holding onto it with a lathe chuck why don't you just cut the threads in the lathe? Not all lathes will cut the thread you want, so that is what the other picture is for, the same principle as the drill press. (I will deny that I posted this) Dashman's Hot Rod & Speed Parts www.dashman.net <!-- / message -->
Many hardware stores have Grade 8 threaded rod, ( Not Lowe's ) Or McMaster-Carr can ship overnite and is reasonably priced & usually domestic manufactured. I use their 12 pt. bolts in my aluminum connecting rods, they are 170,000 psi tensile strength. Go online and search McMaster's catalog, very rarely am I stumped. I buy my machine shop tools from them and they are world class. Good luck, Pat
good thread & i think one should come away with the correct answer.i chuck the piece down & use alot of cuttin oil. put the beer down & go slow ....oil....oil.....oil.
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