Ive been in the process of painting my FordChevyBaker with roll on rust-oleum and its turning out very nice. it is very labor intensive. after the first coat "not thinned out so it covers more" i have to wet sand it to get rid of the orange peel that is suprisingly not that bad, not much worse than newer gm or jeeps. after wet sanding it and just rubbing my hand in a circle in one spot it started to have a nice shine to it. So i put on one more coat today and im going to have a wet sanding party this weekend and then buff it. Ill keep ya updated. Before after Oh and i read on here that a 90 model caddy trunk relese works for shaved locks and it was extremely simple, drilled two holes and ran a power wire to it.
enamel is enamel. dont matter how it goes on i guess. should buff up nice! cant wait to see the end result.
I used rusoleum gloss black. Ive got one more coat to do now so i should be in with about 2.5 quarts. The only prep i did was remove the rust and primerd the areas that were rusty with their rusty primer" i forget what they call it" because it was pitted and that primer is like a filler primer that i rolled on and was about $5 a quart and only 1 coat. I used a rough scotch brite pad on the rest of the car to knock off the shine and wiped it down with mineral spirits. Also you can not dilute the primer, i think its water based because it cleans right off with water. The black i used a 4" fine foam roller and layed it on thick. In between coats im wetssanding with 800 grit and i also did that with the primer. Its a lot of work to remove the orange peel but its worth it. Im going to try to buff it sunday. Also the doorjambs and under the hood im going to uses rustoleum spray paint. from what ive heard you cant tell the difference. "ITS NOT FUN NOR EASY, IF I HAD THE MONEY I WOULD HAVE JSUT BOUGHT A CHEAP AUTOMOTIVE SINGLE STAGE PAINT, LESS SANDING AND JUST STRAIGHT UP FASTER" But I thought this would be a fun experiment. lowlife matt Those wheels are temp. im looking for some steel wheels with beauty rings, spider centers and white walls.
I like the way you think. Sometimes, 'the easy way' makes me think outside the box. That same reason is part of my reason to do my next job with a brush. At our old car group weekley feed I was talking about my plans. Got some really quizzical looks. The fun part will be explaining to all the nay-sayers & unadvised admirers that I did it that way. After all, I've already proven to myself that I can spray-paint. It's time for a change. The last car I painted with a brush, with my brother's help, was in the late 1940s. I'm going to invite him over when I get a panel/fender prepped and have a beer whilst I watch him spread it on. This will be the first car he's painted in since he's been draggin' the oxygen tank around with him for the last few years. It'll be like old times.
Thats also one of the reasons im doing it with a brush and roller, because people say it cant be done, also becuase im unemployed and broke.
I don't know if you ever tried spraying that paint before. You use an airless sprayer with a smaller tip, like a 413 or a 410. The airless is designed to spray those kind of coatings and it works killer, you just have to be careful not to put too much on, and make sure the metal is warm. Thats what is on my black pickup on my avatar.
Used to paint signs with oil based 1 Shot and a foam roller, with a crossing pattern and a light touch it would lay out like glass. Good job can't wait to see the buff pictures. Shouldn't it dry for 30 days before buffing? Can't remember the specifics.
It has layed out pretty smooth for a roller. After 2 days its hard and ready to sand "Its been around 100-150 degrees at my house" so its like using a booth to cure it.
I hope it holds up, I sprayed a tool box for my truck and it faded quick [ Red] 5000 ft in elevation is hard on paint so maybe it will hold up better for you.
I've been using "industrial" enalmels for years... the stuff works great. There isn't much UV protection, so cover it up when it's not being used. Or do like me and just enjoy the fade....
When paint fades; Things become what they actually were in the day; more-so than not. What puzzles me is how so many that are (presumably) stalwart for tradition can't see that happenstance as the benchmark for a traditional '40s or '50s hot rod.
I am going to try that on my '42 Chevy. I want to experiment to show it can be done and I have very little money. If I wait till I can paint it "right" it will be another 10 years and I want it shiny. Yours looks good.
I sprayed my Lark with rustoleum royal blue. ($9.95 a quart!) I prepped the same way you did with scotchbrite pads and primer rattlecan on the bare spots. I think it turned out great and I got a lot of compliments! I love to tell people that I used $15.00 worth of paint.
Thats cool to see another lark, not a lot of people like em. No i did not uses any hardner, I put on another coat at about 6 or 7 pm yesterday and i just went out and checked it at 10 am today and its acturly hard, some spots where i overlaped or put it on a little thicker are still a little soft though.
Oh my God! you're wasting your time! It's gonna look horrible! Rustoleum!?! WTFBBQ!!!1! Just kidding, it looks great. Gonna end up spraying my 52 with Rustoleum too. Already did some parts and it looks really good and you can't beat the price.
I think this thread among others got me motived to try this on my 62 merc as budget is stupid tight and i don't have a garage. Thanks for the pic's and all.
Well ive got 2 coats on the hood and wet sanded with 1500 grit. I have not buffed it yet due to the fact i have no buffer. The hood looks like a fiberglass part thats been gel coated black. It is slick, it would be nice for a semi gloss finnish this way. As i get more, ill post.
This is key... Sprayed the frame of the coupe in my avatar with black Rusoleum... always let it dry at least a week before working on it or spraying anything else... it is soft but dries hard if you give it time.
Luckily in two days mine is hard enough to sand. today i put on another coat diluted 15% and its so much smoother. in two more days im going to put on a coat thats 50% diluted and see how smooth is comes out.
ok guys. I have finnaly been able to get back to work on the car. I have wetsanded it and started to buff it with a wool pad and rubbing compound. some of it is a deep bleck but some spots are still hazy. What am i doing wrong, I have never buffed a car before and i cant really find detailed instructions on doing so.