this does not hold much but it works . i made this from the "guts" of an automatic trans radiator . removed the trans cooler part (brass with open ends) the brazed on brass soft plugs , ground and sanded smooth . then polished . i used the thread bungs to attach it to the brace i mounted on the frame , also tapped the top to put an elbow in for the hose , then relief holes in the top .
What I made so far is not working out ,Problem is it has to be thin .Trying to squeeze it in between shell and radiator ,Damn aftermarket rad is a little narrow any way and Ill have to make up some flashing peices to hide brackets ,I can see why guys buy Walker.
the thermostat stuck on my chevy roadster once, leaving a fireworks display on the 4th. It blew the hose off and shot fluid out about 4 ft to the drives side. luckly no one was walking by on that side. Sprayed for a couple seconds ,with the wind some of it hit me (topless car) I had little blisters all over my left arm and face. So make sure you use a hose clamp. david
Yea--I did it on my 29 roadster a few years back--cannister was cheap--not much work to get it done.I even hard-lined it from the cannister so it would look like it was still an oil filter.
Find one of those reusable water bottles, there aluminum and have cool powercoat finishes. Usually not more then 20 bucks and def not rat looking
I guess I am nit picking because technically what they are calling the 'Shell' is actually the 'Bomb', a shell is the brass casing that a 'Bomb' or projectile is inserted into that holds the 'charge'. With a mortar round (Bomb) the charge are bags that are tied to the narrow section of the bomb before it is placed into the Mortar 'Tube'. Mortar 'shell' is a colloquial term that has entered the language through popular media, ie: movies etc. I have a nasty feeling I am channeling my old instructors. Yes I was in an Artillery unit early in my career (103BTY 8/12 MDM REGt) and I am trained on Mortars. Maybe I should take this to the 'Misused terms that piss you off' thread?? But I stand by what we both agree on, take some time to get it right guys! Though I am starting to see a theme emerge here, notice how the tackier the overflow bottle is the closer the whole car is to a Rat Rod? I think its the mind set of the builder, either you want a real Hot Rod or you are more inclined to crap. Doc.
A dude I know, that will remain nameless, used an old bong. It startled some folks when they realized what it was. Nothin worse than old bong water. Boys will be boys. ~Sololobo~
Agreed, mine pukes a bit for the first few drives after topping off the rad, then it doesn't leak a drop... ever... I guess if you're gonna be doing some drag racing, it's probably a good idea just in case. Sure... a dude you know...
Thats half an idea .I dont want to get busted driving home ,But I need something that thin ,1and a quarter by 8 inches ,A trap would work but no caps are available and home depot probably wont sell a foot of 1 '' copper ,And 80.00 is out of the question ,Im trying to hide it ,
Go to the plumbing supply, get a 24" length of copper "M" tubing, 11/2 or 2" whatever size you can fit, buy 2 pressure caps, copper. Buy 2 pieces of copper tube or use roll tube 3/16 or 1/4" whatever size will fit your hoses, a 3/16 or 1/4' Sweat ball valve, sweat means you solder it. Drill a hole in each cap so a tube can go in all but 2 inches, straighten out your tubing, if it's soft warm it to pretty hot and dunk it in cold water a couple of times, this will anneal it and it will not be so soft, Solder or silfloss, I would prefer silfloss or silver braze all the stuff together, polish it out and clear it or let it patina and clear, can't leave it au naturale it will go green. It works spiify and looks all "the trad" Menards sells 3 footers, go to an Ace they will sell you 2 feet should be $4 a foot for 1", You can get 11/4" tube as well.
I had a JAGERMEISTER bottle on my last car,they say "keep cold and serve on ice" on the botton of the label My nova gasser build is gonna be black so I think a JACK DANIELS bottle will work well
Both my projects will have pressurized systems and cross-flow radiators, so they'll need expansion tanks rather than overflow bottles. I haven't sourced a radiator for the Morris but the one in my Golf is about the right capacity and shape - though it's got nasty plastic end tanks. The plan is to build an expansion tank out of a Morris Minor or similar header tank and mount it to the top of the crossflow radiator. The one currently in the car is a bit too buckled due to a PO using the wrong cap on it. The same principle will apply on the '31. I've got a BMW 728 crossflow radiator with a damaged core, which I'll have rebuilt around a narrower core. The expansion tank will be a made-up thing that fits into the top of the Deuce shell, with its cap where the hole in the shell is, with a mascot on the cap. There'll be an engine air-intake slot between the tank and the radiator, ducted to the air cleaner.
I used a remote oil filter off of my 331. It works great and all you had to do was tap the pressure side all the way thru add a 90 degree elbow and hose to the bottom. once it fills up it goes out the bottom.you have over a quart capacity plus it blends in.
I was gonna tell you guys what I used but instead, Think of the most Non-rat rod, Traditional form of coolant over flow tank... Thats what Im using...
where did you find that tap??!! they also make soda, i buy them all the time here, comes in a glass bottle. as far as ideas, use a late model receiver dryer from an AC system, put it in the lathe and cut the top off. then make a new top for a gas cap you are probably doing a recovery system anyway? so you don't lose coolant?
i was thinking of using this for an overflow tank i'm sure no-one else ever thought of doing it but because i life in holland and all ,in the land of ...... well you know i don't use that shit ....but i liked it as a statement iff anyone else wanna use this "marocan waterpipe" overflow tank idea ....be my guest
This is good because it has some 'shape' to it. The PVC/copper tube/whatever homebuilts are just one long smooth cylinder, and there was never a shape like that on any traditional car. Canteens, beer bottles, and even some cans do have some 'shape', so that is good, but I agree that they can look cliche because they have been done so many times before. IMHO either hide it under (or maybe box a section of frame so that it is INSIDE the frame) the frame, or use something with shape that dates back to the era of the vehicle. This oil filter cannister is a good one. Some of the period brass fire extinguishers are, too. If you are going to build something, try to come up with a design that harkens to how the factory would have done it back in the day.
I just used a piece of 3" exhaust tubing. Stuck it in a vise and turned it into an oval, welded two ends on (with the proper tubing inside) and added a top. Mounts on the frame rail in an inconspicuous location near my starter. Easy, cheap and works.
I should have added on the one i posted, that was my power steering catch can, so it's non recovery, you just need to add a tube and a 90 inside and it becomes a recovery tank, it also has to be vented to recover, think straw in a sealed container, doesn't work.
That is nice. The oval shape and horizontal shape make it different and also a bit more period. I wonder what one would look like made out of an old Dietz kerosene lantern? That would give you some really period looking stamped steel parts. Not the glass chimney, of course. just the bottom and maybe an arm.
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