I am in the planning stages of a budget traditional Track-T or T roadster build, very simple, small V-8, maybe a mild SB Ford or Chevy because they're cheap (I know, yawn...), suicide front, quick change rear if I can find one, friction shocks, drums all around, etc. The pre-fabbed aftermarket 2X3 T frames offered are tempting because they are readily available with mounts for any engine/trans combo, all set for front and rear mounting and CHEAP! $400-$500. They don't have the ultimate look I would like, but did I mention...cheap and available? The problem is, an old timer friend said that 2X3 isn't strong enough for this. I realize you get what you pay for. Does anyone have any experience they would like to share? Thanks, Bob
As long as you have a front crossmember, a welded in non removable tranny crossmember and a rear crossmember. It should be plenty strong.
Or if you want to get creative read this thread. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305273
heavy wall 3x2 is fine, built the frame for my 454 powered 26T with 130" wheel base out of 3x2, drives nice and straight.
do it with 3/16" 2X3. super strong and the radius looks better than 1/8". make sure you put the seems towards the inside of the frame if you end up building it yourself.
WoW! Nice work! But a little beyond me I'm afraid...I only have a little 110 mig...but sure makes me think...hmmm....
Make all the cuts and tack it, find someone with skills AND a bigger welder to finish it off for you.
Thats what i did with mine too, i know what i wanted, cut it tacked it and had someone with the skills and gear do the critical stuff, too much to risk taking shortcuts!
Build your frame out of 2"x4" studs from Home Depot. Get everything where you want it. All of the drive train, body, axles, etc. When you like the relationships and the overall look duplicate it in steel.
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If you purchase a frame, it will not be 3/16" wall.... Go for it, no issues with 2X3 3/16" wall frame rails. This is what I used in my drag car, sure it has a cage which adds alot of strength, however; lots of strength... If I remember correctly, 2X3 square tubing with a 3/16" wall was slightly stronger (tensial strength) than 2X4 square tubing with 1/8" which most aftermarket "back halves", etc. are manufactured from.....
Only my Opinion, But i Will walk right by a Car that has a Fabed up Tube frame. I feel there is No reason to use a Tube frame when there are so many other frames available to build a Nice Car using a REAL frame. I used a '26 Chrysler frame in my car, I also have a '28 Chevy Frame, '20 Dodge frame Sitting here waiting to be used & have sold several other frames including 2 '25 Dodge & a 1919 Buick frame that were all modified for Hot Rod applications. When a car is done with a REAL frame. It adds more to the car than one would think & scores WAYYY More points than a Tube frame. But then, Thats just My Opinion. Anyone with a Tube frame is gonna tell you How Bitchen they are .... But There NOT
I think he's asking about FUNCTION, not scoring points with other people. There's nothing wrong with building a custom frame, out of 2 x 3. It's been done thousands of times and works if properly built. I've seen lots of T-bucket frames built from 1.5 x 3! Build your dream, man.
I kinda know what DE SOTO is saying, but for me, it depends on the overall build theme. Ya know? I don't write off tube frame cars, heck I've built them in the past and will in the future, but if you're trying to pull off a period style build, there were very few that went to the trouble and expense back in the day. Plus it probably would have been round tubing up into the late 60's. It's kinda like looking uder what appears to be a beatiful 50's style custom and seeing a nova subframe. It sounds like the original poster isn't too concerned with making this a period correct car, so rect tube it is.
On the homemade frames I did the tack it at home and took it to another buddies shop to final weld it, worked great! I used 2x3 3/16 wall and it was great!
What DE SOTO said; On a budget? Until donor frames aren't available for cheap it's a moot discussion. It's simply not practical to spend any money buying new steel or an aftermarket frame. I just sold a model A frame for $100. including crossmember, spring U-bolts, etc. Better candidate and more traditional to box and Z, especially for a first-time builder with limited welding skills.
Sure I would agree with your statement relating to a Deuce or 33/34 frame.... Other than that, a fabed up square tubing frame on a model 'T' or 'A', I don't see much of a difference when the work is completed in a proper manner. Look at the rear section of a Model 'A' frame just before the rear cross member. Not too far from the horse and buggy days, very narrow rails....
And for that a big thanks. By the way it's 'fab'd or fabbed' not fabed. Since we're being so critical.
FWIW, Tensile strength will be the same for any shape having the same cross-sectional area and made from the same alloy. You are likely thinking of bending strength which is a function of the shape and the dimensions. The easy demonstration is to position a 10-0 long 2x4 and a 2x6 on edge and then stand on each, in the center...yeah, I know, little skinny guys won't see the difference... .
REALLY ? Sorry I Didn't spell that to your Likeing ... All I am saying is WHY Fuck around with Building a Tube Frame when there are MANY Doner frames available ? You Get a REAL frame, If you start with an Early Dual Leaf spring fram it has a NICE Swoopy Kick up in the Frame to start with... NO "Z" Crap to deal with. I can see a Tube frame on a Fad "t" Bucket ot stubbed Gasser, But I see no reason on a Hot Rod Full Fendered or not. They Just LOOK like a Cheap Ass Tube frame. Again, My Opinion
Bibb Overalls gave you the best advice ,Build your frame out of 2x4 's and then fabricate in steel .I did my x members that way and mocked up the 32 rails that way .32 frames are 1/8 boxed So 3/16 is overkill but I would do it .
Considering this is a T-bucket, not a 32 Ford traditional rod build.....why mess around and take chances with 80-year old steel which may have metal fatigue issues, when for only a couple of hundred bucks you can start with fresh new blemish-free and thicker/stronger steel? Food for thought.
They Just LOOK like a Cheap Ass Tube frame. Again, My Opinion[/QUOTE] Yep just a ""Cheap Ass Tube Frame"" Ha Ha Ha Yep gotta' hate a new, non-original frame as it just doesn't look right.....
In the '60's, I built a "T"-bucket with a 2x2 1/8" wall frame with a 270" Dodge hemi. It was a fun car and drove great, but after a year or two it started to sag. It was a done and running car, so what to do? Went to the scrap steel place on Washington Avenue in Minneapolis an bought two 8' lengths of 1 3/4" round tube. We took all of the bolts out of the frame and drove the round tubes up the square tubes with a BFH. Cured everything; no more sag. Kept the car for 10 or so more years and sold it in he early '80's. Looking back, I hope nobody was killed in it, but I never had any more problems with it. I don't know the structural engineering principles (strength gained), but it's what I did when I was in my early twenties in the mid '60's. Tubman