1951 Ford Truck Project Pics

To respond to the comments:
Glad to hear so many enjoying the thread. I would like to encourage others to share also as a way to give back to our hobby in a digital library. There is no sense in us each having to figure things out that have already been done.
I have been having a great time building the truck and the documentation just extends the build. Everyone at car shows likes to see the progress in photos too. I planned for this to take up most of the long hard winter we have here in mid-Missouri (Waynesville), but I think it will be wrapped up this weekend since all the powder coating is back. I can't wait to see it all together and on the ground. Maiden voyage will be the Mother Road- Old Route 66 which is only a couple miles away.
Scott

 

Thanks great info this gives me a lot of ideas for my 51 thanks again

 

looks like you got go and whoa covered. got a buddy who just picked up a 49 F1. i am gonna send him this link....as in this is the right way to do it.

thanks for postin and all the good intel.

 

great post
my vote for tech. thread

 

The Missing Link:
A minor set back in the T5 conversion has been the clutch. When it came <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comtim</st1ersonName>e to marry the transmission to the motor I could only get it within about ¾”. I tried to use long bolts to draw the Trans in while aligning it, but something seemed wrong. The Trans didn’t feel like it was binding or bottoming out, but like it was up against the clutch springs somehow. I had to take everything back off and have a look. Once the Trans was off I still couldn’t see the problem so I took off the bell housing and clutch also. I tried to put everything together on the floor- Hook everything together like it was on the motor. I immediately could see the problem. The three clutch fingers were hitting on the Offenshauser adapter around the outside edge. I couldn’t see why they needed to be there and figured the clutch assembly would be fine without them so I cut them off with the cut-off wheel. I slipped it all back together and it fit fine. I even put the adapter on the bell housing to check for clearance and there was about ¼” or more.
After thinking I had solved the problem I wanted to be sure so I check the internet articles I had read- Nothing. I then called <st1:City w:st="on"><ST1Speedway</ST1</st1:City>’s Flathead Tech. I quickly explained what clutch I had and what I was doing. He politely let me talk and then he almost finished my sentence by explaining the three little barrels/weights on the outside of the clutch fingers are for centrifugal force and are not necessary- “cut them off and you’ll be fine”. I did and then I reassembled everything without any problems. I just can’t imagine why no on else ever mentioned this? It is not an option. If you are using the Ford “long clutch”, you will have to cut these off, but it is simple. I guess that is why I am mentioning it here.
The last thing I needed to do after bolting up the Trans for the last <st1ersonName w:st="on">tim</st1ersonName>e was check the cross member and drill the mounting holes. With everything marked and drilled, I welded the mounting platform to the cross member. I then cleaned everything up and got it ready for my final trip to the powder coater tomorrow.
All major fabrication is done and final assembly is all that is left.
Scott

 

Hey Scott, Great post--lots of good information, and clear pictures. I would like more info, though, about what you did about the steering clearance and bump-steer issues. Your project has got me all inspired to get back on my old '51 f1 farm truck. thanks.

 

Great work, great truck, great pics....Very nice Scott....

 

My compliments to the Chef!

 

Final Assembly Begins:
I dropped off the last few pieces at the powder this morning and they called after lunch and said they were finished. I went to pick them up and started bolting the front end together for the last time. Nothing new here but nicer looking pictures of everything you have already seen.
I did cut a hole in the floor for the new floor shifter I got at a salvage yard. Some simple measuring put a 4”x 4” hole in the right spot. I then traced the hole onto the rubber matt and cut it the same.
The drive shaft went in easily. It is now a custom piece with an S10 front yolk and U-joint mated to the old Ford tube with the original Ford U-joint in the rear. Although you could get a U-joint that adapts the Chevy yolk to the Ford, it would be a tough piece to replace out on the road. With the new end piece I can pick up a standard U-joint for either end.
When installing the front brake assembly on the spindles there are two things to modify a little. First, you may have to get angled grease fittings that aim out and away from the new caliper hanger. Second, and more important, you have to reverse the bolt that anchors the King Pin on each side. The bolt I am pointing to is reversed. The nut usually is very long (about an inch) and goes on the rear. If it is out the rear side of the axle then the new caliper hanger will hit it and you can only turn one direction. It is a simple fix and needs no modification- Just ensure it goes to the front and you will have a full range of steering.
I still have a major brake job ahead with the installation of all new brakes lines.
Scott

 

Thanks again for the nice comments. The strangest thing about the entire project is that most people would look at a before and after picture and wonder what was even done to the truck. The outside will look almost the same and even have the stock tires and wheels.
In response to the steering questions- If you are lowering the truck then you will have to keep the drag link level- That is really it. You can convert the old style drag link to a new ball end to help, but that will not change the angle. I think that some people use shorter pitman arms which will reduce the angle also. Remember that when using a drop axle you will also have to “lower” your tie-rod ends too. When the spindle is going up the tie-rod end is too and after two-three inches the tie-rod will be going through your leaf springs so you have to drop them down. I used the “C” drop kit. One end is cone shaped and the other is threaded for the bolt that goes through the steering arm. You will have to drill out the holes (very little) the tie-rods were in to fit the new bolts. The picture is pretty clear and you can also see the new solid tie rod. This thing is heavy and is supposed to stiffen up the handling- Not that I think this thing will handle well though.
Scott

 

I'm impressed that was a lot of work in a very short time, just a great thead. I too have a 51' F-1. Look forward to more of your F-1.

 

This info is greatly appreciated. Thank you for sharing. I have a 51 just sitting in my garage waiting for me to start working on it.

 

Scott, that's a great job, I like your style. I'm setting up a 54 as a work horse. Didn't go that low, but I'm cheap. Had the local spring shop re-arch the main leafs upside down, to reverse the eyes, and pulled 1,3 &5 leafs. For $100.00 I got it down 3 inches. (found out they will do it for 50 if I take them just the main leafs), so I'm Reversing the eyes in the back springs and may pull 1 or 2 leafs, to leave some rake.
Soon as I get it rolling I'll pull it out and take some pics.

 

I guess that is it- Here it is. I wouldn’t call it finished because I think it sits too high in the back and will have to go back under the knife for another 2” chop. I took it out and drove it a little today and it shifts and drives much better. It doesn’t drive well compared to a newer vehicle, but it is drivable on modern roads and in modern traffic.
The brakes are probably too good now and the tires like to lock up, but that is probably because they are about 20+ years old and hard as a rock. When the brakes do grab and lock up they do it smoothly and predictably. Newer, wider rubber would make a huge difference in stopping I think.
The shifting is just excellent. It is nice to be able to down shift on the fly without grinding. Taking off without the shuddering and hopping is nice also. I think the transmission was the most difficult part, but the most needed. If I had to go back and could only make one change on the truck it would be the transmission swap.
Now I have been just fixing and adjusting little things like the blower motor, wipers, wiring and such. The last major project will be dual exhaust to the rear bumper (Flame throwers…???) and probably a shop logo and art work on the doors.
I know what some of you are thinking… “For all that work he did, it still looks like a rusty old truck someone pulled out of the weeds”…Thanks!
Scott

 

Shop Logo:
I designed this logo on Power Point and took it to "Dr. E's" grapics to have it cut into vinyl ($20). I pulled out the letters as opposed to pulling off the border- Since I was using it as a masking tool and not letters. Once it was all measured out and centered, just pull off the backer and lay it on- Usually you only get one shot at this. After taping off the surrounding area, just spray with a few light coats. I wanted it thin in spots to look old and distressed. I even put masking tape over the rust spot you see in the picture to save it. Now it looks like the rust spot has been in the black for years. A few scratches and peeling here and there makes the whole thing look generally jacked up and old. I will add a couple more graphics later and then may have a professional striper do their magic. The reason I am doing this is because they are EXSPENSIVE. I was quoted $600 to do the doors and some other doodles here and there- Too much
Scott

 

Nicely Done!! Looks great huge improvement on the stance!!!!

 

A few pics of everything finished. Probably what everyone wants to see- The stance. I did have to hit the bumpers and the running boards with a scratch pad to get rid of the shine from when I painted the chassis. They look flat like the rest of the truck now.
I had to fix the fan and install a new switch. I took a switch out of an old ceiling fan, drilled a hole and wired it. I did lose the Med/High, but On/Off is fine.
I still have a couple charging issues to sort out, but the truck drives fine. I was wrestling with the “Bias vs. Radial” tires thing and decided on radials- Wow, am I glad I did that. The larger footprint handles great and now the brakes have something between them and the road. The truck can really stop now without locking up the tires.
New dual exhaust dumps behind the tire.
Scott

 

The truck looks great! I saying that you are finished.

What size tires did you end up runing and how bad do the front tires rub when turning?

 

This is an awsome thread and a very good read!

 

amazing man, Thanks for taking the time to explain everything, you are an asset to this hobby. I was reading this while the wife was getting ready to go out and now I have to save it and come back to finish it!!! man Im so excited to wake up tomorrow and reread this!!

Hope to meet you someday

 

Looks frikkin awesome!!!!

Nothin worse than taking all of the 'old truck' out of an old truck!!!

I wish I'd left those big-ole fender blinkers on mine!!!

When I read 'oldstyle signwriting' ....I thought "here we go".....but its PERFECTLY subtle!

but an inch or two out of the arse-end will REALLY make you smile!

>>>>>

 

nice thread, and great work............

 

Truck looks great doing the same mods to my 52. what ratio gears in rear? what did you do about speedo cable to t5?are your tires 16 inch?

 

looks great thanks for all the info

 

Great job! Thanks for taking the time to document all your work. I just picked up a second F-1. This info will be very helpful. Subscribed!

 

I was asked about tire wear on a PM and how the drop axle effects it:

You know that is a good question. I regulary checked the new tires to see if they started wearing funny on an edge, but each time I have checked them I can can still see the tits equallt across the face. I have not put a ton of miles on it, but have been up and down the highways and back rounds as well as around town. I guess I would have to say I see no problem at all since the tires are barely showing any wear at all after a summer.
Scott

 

thanks for all the good info this is awesome

 

Great Build Thanks for the Write ups.

 

Excellent write up. what size bolts did you use in replace of the rivets for the rear hangers. I am running the same setup up front but I have a 5 inch dropped axel. There was no way for my tie rod to clear the oil pan so I put a piece of 2 inch pipe right through it and welded it up. it is really pretty trick.

 

do you think it is really worth it to raise the front hanger? how much extra drop do you thing you got from doing that after you did the rear hanger?