Whats is the best header locks for the flanges? I just cant win with the small block chevy block hugger headers. Always have a leak somewhere. Thanks in advance.
to fix this...unbolt, toss out, and replace with different header on a serious note, check to make sure it is your flange and not your collector.....heres a pic of my sanderson header collectors.....yes both cracked at the same spot......i dont like them
Mine cracked in the same spot also on both sides and in between the tubes on my blown sbc I looked for a gasket leak for a while at first also then I found the crack which got bigger as the header got hot.Sanderson said it was a fuel mixture problem so no warranty. I have a innovative wide band digital o2 moniter I know my fuel mixture is correct although they fit well this will be the last pair of sandersons for me
I had a pair of small block Chrysler Sanderson tight tuck headers on the Plymouth for quite awhile and had the exact same cracks many times before I pulled them off and threw them as far as I could!! They must have made it 3/4 of the way down the ally!
To answer your original question, if it is the mating flange to the cyl head that you are referring to then Stage 8 fasteners work pretty well and they are local to us.
Look on catalog page 5 here http://www.totallystainless.com/2010catalog/catalog35.pdf these things worlk GREAT!
I had no leaks with cheap block huggers. I think the gaskets and fasteners are key. I used Percy dead soft aluminum gaskets. On the heads I used stage 8 locking bolts that have the little stops and c-clips on them to prevent backout. On the collector I used steel lock nuts that have a few threads swaged. Good luck
I have a problem with my Sanderson block huggers. On both sides the sparkplug is too close to the header and burns through. It's on #5 and #8 cylinders. More so on #8 where the boot touches the header. I’m using Taylor wires and the short plugs will not make a difference here. I have not run them long enough to see any cracking. For the money I paid for these with ceramic coating, you would think they would be better designed.
yeah i got the same problem.. i ended up binking my pipe with a body hammer that had the point on it, so it gave room for the plug tip..sucks to have to do that. I think the cracking and seperation issues of this makers headers is directly related to how thin their mounting flanges are....just my 2cents
X's 2-I have the same problem with mine-I bought a set of Accell wires with the ceramic boots at the plug end to compensate for the clearance issue-kept burning the taylors-too bad ..I like those wires.
No cracks in them yet. Just always seem to leak where they seal at the heads. Never right away,but later on down the road and I am always needing to keep snugging them down. What sealer is best for these as I know gaskets arent required.
The finest header gaskets I've ever used are Earls . Aluminum shim type gasket with replaceable graphite ceramic insertrs. Tighten them once and never again. If you take them off, replace the inserts and like new. I did use them some time ago with full length sandersons with their screwed up weld flange. Worked fine. They have various exhaust port shapes, make sure you get the right ones for your heads.
For the evening crew. Need to get this engine back togeher so the wife can have the garage back. Some of you are killing me.
I'm running Sanderson Lime fires on my 32 with Rohl gaskets on the header and dump flanges. Allen cap screws on the header flange with no problems. The underneath exhaust is only supported at the back of the car which I think allows more flex and keeps from loading the header and dump flange when the engine torques. Got Sanderson rams horns on wifes 39. Back flange bolt on each side has to be tightened once a year. Don't know what gaskets. Whatever was on the car when we bought it in 06.
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