I am running a fenton 2x2 intake on my flathead. this style has the carbs spaced out over the intake evenly therefor not allowing me to run my generator centered. I have already switched it to the side mount bracket. now that i am converting to 12 volt, which would be better. if i go with an alternator I will have to make up some type of bracket to mount to the alternator and to the side mount bracket. A 12 volt generator would be the easy solution but I will be running led taillights and halogen headlights and new style radio. wil this be a problem? any suggestions?
I'd go for an alternator every time, unless you are after the look of a generator. Alt's produce higher output at lower revs and are usually self-contained, no external voltage regulator needed. So all around simpler install/maintain. And if it pooches on a raod trip, you can grab an alternator just about anywhere.
My daily driver is a 1970 car with factory electronic fuel injection and a factory generator...and points ign. It all works fine.
If you're looking for a nostalgic look, install a Power Gen alternator. you can buy Delco generator tags,w/screws, from a GM re-pop parts company. Just my opinion.
How many amps do all of your electrical accessories draw? If all you have are lights, ignition, heater, wipers, a regular radio and maybe a fuel pump, maybe in the 30 amp territory, a generator will handle it. Generators are simpler, have no solid-state parts to inexplicably fail (diode packs and internal regulator), and are traditional. If you need over 60 amps, maybe because of some high end stereo, air and who knows what else, then you need an alternator.
i love generators personally. if you are looking to upgrade, do what hemifarris said and get one of those look alike deals. alternators look funky to me and im proud to have cars with generators!!
Unless your running some big subs, neons, or a bunch of light up dingleberries stick with a generator. They just look better on an old car!
How much do they draw? Amps is amps. Work backwards. If they use 55w bulbs, then two consume 110 watts - call it 120 watts for ease of calculation and to provide a factor for tailights. Round up to 144 watts to provide a factor for the ignition and to continue to keep the math easy. Now, divide by 14.4 volts since that is where your regulator will be set. 10 amps, right? So you still have 20 amps to go for any decent generator. Sounds like you are good to go.
what kinda car? if yer runnin an exposed motor and buildin it to suit others then by all means, run the generator. otherwise, why not run an alternator? manufacturers didn't upgrade to em because they suck, they did it because all around, they're a better system. despite what the trad snobs tell ya.
Ya gens look way better. Go for one of those Power Gen Alt's and get the looks with the reliability. The price is outrages for one but they do look nice
12 volts are more important than the alt vs. gen debate. I have flattie's both ways, with electronic ing., and points they all work great.
X2 A generator is the same as most starters, in design, except for the modern permanent magnet type starters. Yes, this is supposed to be a traditional board, and it's the ONLY one on the net. There are multiple sites for all the other types of modified old cars. Why can't we be able to talk about our parts and methods without being called "Trad Snobs"?
If we assume that the rotating drag (bearings and overall windage) is the same for either device, then they are the same. Because power is power. It will take the same amount of HP from your motor to spin a generator outputing 30 amps at 14.4 volts as it would to have an alternator putting out 30 amps at 14.4 volts. In reality there are different efficiencies (losses) in the two types of device, but they are low enough for me to stand by the above statement. Don't forget that an alternator is a generator. They both output direct current. The generator generates single phase power that is rectified by the commutator and the brushes. The alternator generates three-phase power that passes through slip rings (instead of a segmented commutator) and that gets rectified downstream by the diode pack. That, ultimately, is why alternators can produce more electrical power. Think a three cylinder engine instead of a one-lunger. At the risk of oversimplifying, and I know that someone will step in to refine this example, a 60 amp alternator has three 20 amp windings. Less copper in a 20 amp winding than one big 30 amp winding in a generator - plus, the generator just has one set of windings while an alternator interleaves three sets 120 degrees around a circle. (Think a 3 cylinder radial engine.) So now we all know why alternators are smaller.
Well said, plym49. For my two cents-worth, I'd go with an alternator for its better output and overall reliability. I used to rebuild generators, starters, etc when I was a kid, growing up in SoCal and did very few alternator repairs, way back in the day, compared to gennies. Some of the comments on this thread seem reminiscent of someone saying that they'd run mechanical brakes rather than hydraulics on an early Ford V8 because it's 'traditional'... If you look back at what is termed today as 'traditional hot rodding' (as promoted by this site), a lot of technological advances were incorporated into builds by innovative rodders.
same reason we can't discuss alternators without being looked down on i reckon. i mean c'mon! look at some of the dismissive shit some people write about parts that don't fit their narrow definition of traditional. my definition includes scroungin for parts, whatever they may be. not buyin a NIB generator simply cuz it's got "the look" there's NOTHIN traditional about catalog parts so consider the condescencion reciprocated. besides, who said i was referring to you? guilty conscience? this board is fast becoming "traditional" hotroddings answer to a restorers convention. "thats not right"... "that part is slightly off in color" "those aren't stock" the traditional LED crack was funny though... is this where i get banned for not followin the party line?
the led's that I am using are from speedway. they are oval in shape, like the ford oval. they are about 2.5" high by 4.25" long.
I run a generator. Oh and I also run points. I don't have a problem with alternators or elec ign. BUT to say it isn't reliable is BULLSHIT
Aside from my lighting choices the truck is "traditional". I live in the country and travel mostly back roads. Hens the reason I chose the BRIGHT leds and halogen headlights. Both still look traditional from 5 feet.
Not that my opinion matters, but I don't see a problem with that at all. I'm going to try my 41/48 chevy rear lights with 1157's and will see if there are too many close calls,.... then go from there.
Your car would have come with an alternator by '70. Alternators were coming out in the early '60s, so they aren't O/T as some suggest.
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