clutch problem need help quick?/???

ok just installed my pressure plate diaphram style...bolted everything else together then slide trans in then problem number 1.throw out bearing is to long. then i go get another one then its to short"had 1/2 inch play before it touches the pressure plate i heard that it is supposed to barley touch the fingers .now i know i have to get the middle sized one. but with the short one i was able to get contact and move the fingers but when in gear tried having my friend turn the yoke when i held the clutch fork and no movement also the fingers feel really tight when i had the large bearing with the trans out. and pull the fork it wouldn't budge the pressure plate???also my setup is hydralic/slave cylinder not hooked up yet...

motor is a sbc 350 with 4-speed saginaw 11inch clutch??

 

what kind of trans are we talkin about here?

 

Yea.

Motor and trans please.

Kinda like this problem i had with this thing, but when i asked if this one thing was better than this other doohicky, nobody could tell me!

 

Does your fork have a thin metal steel piece riveted to the back side of it? If so, make sure you didn't get the aft bearing flange stuck between it & the fork. I've seen that before & it will cause a very hard pedal

 

fork is installed correct


and motor is a 350 with 4-speed saginaw 11inch clutch diaphfram style...

 

tried looking came up with 2 size throw out bearing that might work
1.580 or
1.525 anybody have some part numbers for these sizes if the long throw out bearing was 1/4 inch shorter it would probably work???

 

just got ahold of the short one and used an adjustable pivot ball everything is back together.used an clutch a adjustable wrench on the fork end when trans was on the jack lowered and pull the fork forward and finally the clutch released turn the yoke as i did that and turn no problem.but when i bolted the trans to the crossmember i couldnt get good leverege and couldnt get it to work when my slave cylinder is hooked up it should put more pressure then me to fully release the bearing right???

 

When I was dicking with my t-5 install, I could not get the fork to move with just hand pressure. I think you need the leverage?

 

Unless you have 5 foot cheater bar or your name is Superman ya ain't moving it by hand.

 

so when i install the slave cylinder it should have the force needed to move the clutch fork all the way???

 

Yes .Jost be sure your M/C and slave cyl. bores are the same or within 1/16 of each other. Chevy P/Us used a 1&1/8 master and a 1&1/16 slave as I recall for an example.

 

i had a mechanic friend tell me that trying to release the clutch bearingby hand in first gear is harder then doing it in a taller gear????

 

It would just be harder to spin the output on the tranny. I think third gear is 1:1, But I don't know nothin'.

 

running a 4-speed

 

Changing gears wont help. You need at least a 12 inch crescent to move the fork hard enough to disengage the clutch. I had to pull mine just to get it to slide into place what a bitch that was. the slave will have the force needed to move do the job.

 

thanks for the reply...i used a 12 inch crescent when i had the trans at a angle{trans was angled down} and it worked i guess i got worried when i put the cross member back on and couldnt get a good hold/leverage.so made the bracket for the slave so will report back with how it works...

 

top gear in 3 AND 4 speeds is 1 to 1. shouldnt make any difference as far as shiftin goes. hook up the damn clutch, make sure its bled good and drive!

 

well finished my slave cylinder bracket today and installed everything. as soon as i step on the pedal it move really nice still need to bleed the system and get an adjustable push rod for the slave cylinder. really happy with the hydralic setup.also it worked out with the size of the master and slave because when i barley push the pedal it moves the rod..

 

outstanding!! i've never had a hyd. clutch that didn't drive me INSANE tryin to get it bled.

 

there's a vid on youtube how to bleed a slave cylinder its pretty cool.check it out

 

well now i am going insane also.. bled the system when i cracked the bleeder screw just fluid came out no air. pedal seems the same as when i just filled it up with fluid without bleeding it....other problem is.when my pedal is to the floor i am watching the clutch fork move and it looks like it is working ..but it wont release the pressure plate when i step on the pedal all the way and put the trans in gear and try to turn the drive shaft it does nothing just turns in neutral..is there still trapped air???

using a 3/4 wilwood master with thru firewall mount
with jeep 7/8 bore slave cylinder.these parts are all new..
throw out bearing is a short with 1/4 play if moving the fork back and forth with slave cylinder not hooked up..am i missing something here have till the end of the month to get car ready to drive moving so i need help quick..

 

bump

 

MC is too small . The MC bore should be the same or slightly larger bore than the slave. You check out the specs for bore sizes on factory systems thats what you will find. Example Chevy PU MC bore 1&1/8 slave bore 1&1/16th.

 

for a 7/8s slave you need a 1 inch master

Think if it like your master is a beer can, and your slave is a 5 gallon. Not quite enough to fill it. When you step on the clutch, your master isnt moving enough fluid in your slave cylinder to make it actuate all the way

 

thanks will check into that.is this for sure the problem???

 

well i think i have had this same problem.........my fix was that i had the wrong pressure plate for the short throw out......i had to use a 3 fingered pressure plate instead of the multi fingered plate.......just what you need is another experts opinion...lol......good luck

 

i tried the long throw out bearing and the trans wouldnt even bolt up then i got the short one everything went back together fine..also was told that its ok to have some play between the throw out bearing and pp and thats what an adjustable pushrod would eliminate?

 

well called wilwood they suggested the 3/4 master and also said they also suggest 3/4 master with 7/8 slave with there kits?? guess there is still air in the system then..

 

also checked what my slave cylinder worked with originally and it worked with a 13/16 bore clutch master cyl?

 

Believe it or not there is a noticeable difference between 3/4 and 13/16 in the amount of fluid moved.