Ha just kidding about the title but is it possible to shorten the driveshaft on an enclosed driveline out of a 1941 Chevrolet 1/2 ton pickup? If it's possible, how do I do it and is it even allowed by the rules? Can I get performance parts for this rearend such as ring and pinion set? What are my best performance upgrade options... Also, what about brakes? Keep hydraulic ones with a master cylinder or could I just use a lever and the parking brake mechanisms? And furthermore, I have a Chevrolet Inline 6 but I don't know the CID. Is there a way I can look at any castings or distinguishing features to identify my engine without taking it apart? I'm new I don't know what to do ! Any information is appreciated...
If you have a saw and a welder, you can probably make it shorter. Measure twice, cut once...don't worry, it will probably be the wrong length anyway. Stay with the hydraulic brakes, I doubt the parking brake approach would pass tech. I don't know how to tell you what to look for to determine the CID of the Chevy six, but I'm sure there are lots of folks out there who can. (Some of them will even be right.)
just put the casting number from the block in a google search bar. you'll get several chevy sites with lists of the year and cid of your 6. that's how i found out more about a 216 I picked up. good luck!
Well I would try to cut it and move the yoke but this is an enclosed driveline. The torque tube is tapered at the front and the shaft protruding out has splines cut in it. I have no way to cut splines. While I'm at it, to tell ya'll the truth I really don't even know how to disassemble the torque tube assembly to even attemt to cut it. Any how to's on how to disassemble the torque tube assembly?
in your public profile you stated that you twisted wrenchs on a 55 chev at age 5 and are now 20.I think a better way to approach your problem would be find a later model doner car and use engine,transmission and rear axle .to do what you suggest would be cost prohibitive.just my 2 cents
I meant I am new at the HA/GR racing class. That's why I am in this forum... And yes I have been working on cars since I was five but I always put late model parts under them. I have seen enclosed drivelines and such plenty of times but I have never done anything with them until this point except sell them or give them away. I need help building and completely understanding the rules of the HA/GR class. For now all I need to know is if it is possible and allowed by the rules to shorten and enclosed driveline and if I can get performance parts for my rearaxle...
Shorten...yes, all it takes is some machining skills and a welder. Narrow...no Performance parts...doubtful for the rear axle, lots available for the Chevy six. Take your time on the build and have fun.
Ok kool... any companies off the top of your head that sell 235 CID performance parts... any also I need information about the transmission hooked up to my engine. It has several casting numbers on the top of the case and the driver side cover...they read : 591814 GM 36 53 H134 on the top and 3886832 GM on the side. The tail piece has a large flange on it for the closed driveshaft setup. Questions I need answered: 1) Names of any specific companies that sell performance parts for my 235 CID. 2) Identification of my standard transmission. Thanks guys
Also, is there parts available for the above said rear axle to freshen it up? I have not found any so far. Gaskets, seals, bearings? What companies should I contact?
Likely the most known six speed parts company is Cliffords. Be warned that they hold orders 'til they've enough for a given run before they have'em produced, and that this can sometimes take awhile. More specific information (and more suppliers) may be had on the "Inliners" (clickable link), they're oriented strongly toward the GM sixes. Their "Tech Tips" and "Bulletin Board" sections can be quite helpful. As with most sites, you'll likely have to wade through a few idiots to get to the good folks, but it's usually worth it (rather like most clubs) and they're even easier to ignore on-line. HA/GR rules are styled in the period they represent, the late '40s through mid '50s. That is to say, they're a given as stated, and anything not stated is open to interpretation. The only qualifier to'em is to remember that they are intended to be used in the vein of the period. The hard part for some folks to keep clearly defined is the representational aspect of the equipment and practices. They tend to confuse given date limits intended to allow more available equipment that can represent earlier stuff with the more modern equipment itself. They also tend to "forget" what practices were commonly in use, and when. However, in that much of the history is recorded in various forms, a bit of homework is usually all that's needed to get re-centered. I know that's a vague sounding explanation but it's the actual intent, hence our oft (and at times annoying ) references to "the spirit of it".
Go on line and order Patrick's catalog. He is out of Arizona and his catalog will tell you everything about Chevrolet sixes. I know Cliffords has a catalog but I don't think it gives you as much info as Patrick's. JUst my opinion. Roy
Stovebolt parts? (Chevy 6's of that family) Patrics http://www.patricksantiquecars.com/ Langdons http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/ Larrowe & Sons http://www.34-chevy.com/ Last I heard Clifford didn't have alot on hand for the old 6's But they are worth a look. http://www.cliffordperformance.net/ Check out the Classifieds here and on Inliners. Check Ebay. Gears? Call Patrick, IIRC he has 3.55s, might have a better chance of traction with them than the 4.11 or higher (numerically) that you likely have now. Shortening the torquetube and shaft? IIRC there are tech articles here on the HAMB in the Tech archive. If you need something Chevy specific (as the ones I recall are for Ferds ) then you may want to check Inliners, Patrics, or maybe Stovebolt. Not that you can tell I'm interested in that sort of stuff. FWIW if the engine is the orriginal in the '41 it should be a 216, Splash oil, Babit Beater, and may be one of the old 3 main bearing setups (kinda fuzzy on that last one, that may be older still but my sometimers is acting up Patric would know). None of those things are good for performance (specifically they make for longevity "issues"). Build it how you want to and Rally the daylights out of it. Not that I would suggest cheating, but the ultimate illegal (for HA/GR) speed mod for the 235 / 261 family is in the Classifieds right now. (kinda spendy, but holly smokes ).
Sorry about the hold up, but the paper (remember those ?) says there's a roughe satelite (actually they call it a "Zombie" but I digress) is screwing up the 'net access for one ISP, mine of course. We missed the boat with the Berkeley, literally. Pops broke his ankle a few weeks back, I've been running him to doctors ever since, but his health comes first. I just got the Injection pump for the tow rig back today, I fly out Thursday (to make sure we have a room for next year) I probably won't get that back on before I go to the salt. I hope to update the build thread at some point.
Sorry to hear of the set back. Tell Pop to heal fast. People take priority over vehicles. Looking forward to the continuation of the build thread.
Thanks, I'll forward it on. I've made it to Wendover, so unless the place burns down or something (I sure hope not) between now and next year we will have a room, for next year.
I suggest going to Chevy S-Ten 5 Speed trans and rear. I converted my "36" Chevy to open driveshaft But could not have done it without my Machine Shop.
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