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clear still sticky?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by VisionInvisible, Aug 4, 2010.

  1. I'm am not a professional painter. I am learning on panels in my garage.

    I prepped a panel and laid down a base coat. A few day later I went back and sprayed clear over it.

    I used something called PCL Super Pro Clear 2600 with Medium reduced. I mixed it 4:1.

    It sprayed nice and laid smoothly.

    The next day I wanted to tape out a panel and spray a clear with coloerd candy.

    The tape started to stick and lift up the clear a little. The clear still felt just slightly gummy.

    I waited another day and it still feels a little gummy.

    What am I doing wrong?
     
  2. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    Waiting between putting the base on and clear on was not the right move. But thats probably no your issue. Seems like you didn't use any hardener like Ed said.
     
  3. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Happened to me too one time. When I mixed the clear the second time around I was surprised that the hardener bottle was still full and the reducer half gone!
     
  4. mlagusis
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,128

    mlagusis
    Member

    One thing I learned was if you paint base coat then clear coat you can not spray candy over the clear unless you use inter coat clear (if I am spelling it right). If you spray candy over clear, it will lift. I learned this on a dash and misc parts 10 years ago.
     

  5. Thundersalt
    Joined: Jun 26, 2009
    Posts: 21

    Thundersalt
    Member

    With any base coat/clear coat you shouldn't wait more than 24 hrs to clear. If the clear is still gummy you didn't use enough hardner or the wrong hardner. You have a mess on your hands.
     
  6. HighSpeed LowDrag
    Joined: Mar 2, 2005
    Posts: 968

    HighSpeed LowDrag
    Member
    from Houston

    Website says 4:1 Clear to hardner. Don't see that reducer is mentioned but I might be missing something.
     
  7. looks like lots O rags and thinner in your future....or spray on a really wet coat of double hardened clear with double the tip pressure to push the hardner into the old clear!!!!!!!

    just kidding dont do that...
     
  8. DARN.

    I just noticed that I had another bottle labeled 2600 CATALYST. I used the wrong bottle!


    will this ever dry?
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2010
  9. HighSpeed LowDrag
    Joined: Mar 2, 2005
    Posts: 968

    HighSpeed LowDrag
    Member
    from Houston

    Chances are good.
     
  10. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,842

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    Stick it out in the sun let bake,I think you were smart enough to use hardener ,The only thing that might be a problem is you waited to clear ,Let bake for awhile and if you have to block the clear .....
     
  11. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,842

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    Just read your thread Oh Oh .No comment ,I have no idea where to go from there ,Catalyst is the hardener .I would try gas before laquer thinner and rags .Start wiping it off ,After let bake and wetsand entire car blocking with 400 or 600 .......
     
  12. Yep, thats the "hardner".
     
  13. It's just a panel that I was doing for fun and a little practice.

    It's not worth the trouble of stripping and starting over again.

    But will it ever dry?
     
  14. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,842

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    It might thank god it was just a panel.
     
  15. But will it ever dry?
     
  16. hotrod40coupe
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 2,561

    hotrod40coupe
    Member

    Congratulations, you are now in the "Learning Curve." Aren't you glad it was just a practice panel?
     
  17. it will dry but depending on how thick it is , it could take years to get unsticky and will never be as hard as it would be with hardner.
     
  18. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,842

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    Failure is the first step in learning ....Just keep on trying Read all labels before painting number one rule.2 nd is a good mask ,3 wrap something on your head unless your bald ,My first cars I always got hair in the paint .Lol
     
  19. LANCE-SPEED
    Joined: Aug 10, 2006
    Posts: 2,259

    LANCE-SPEED
    Member

    I painted a whole car once using degreaser as the hardner, I had both quart cans on my mixing table and used the wrong one. (DOH) spent the next 3 days scraping the gooey mess off. Now I only have what I need on my mixing table! And dont use gas to strip it just let it soak in laquer thinner.
     
  20. caper150
    Joined: Jul 2, 2010
    Posts: 35

    caper150
    Member

    Yes, thankfully only a pratice panel, sounds like either you put too little or hadner that was old in it,if it was part of the car it would eventually peel off. I have seen this done too many times, ever try to strip the paint off a cement mixer when the painter didn't put in the hardner or too little. I can give you the names of quite a few :D
     
  21. Francisco Plumbero
    Joined: May 6, 2010
    Posts: 2,533

    Francisco Plumbero
    Member
    from il.

    It should never dry, it may but it shouldn't, if it has no filler on it you can clean it with acetone, be careful.
     
  22. skullhat
    Joined: May 30, 2009
    Posts: 892

    skullhat
    Member

    no, its not going to cure.

    as its a practice panel, chuck it and make another one.

    as for your desire to spray candy on top., you must be careful.. if its an urethane based candy you wont have any trouble, but if its base coat, you will have to spray it pretty dry over recently sprayed clear , or wrinkling is likely.
    naturally this is for properly catylized clear.

    some paints work with, or without hardner, but the clears dont. watch carefully when you mix the stuff, as they are pretty touchy about being even a little off on the ratios.


    skull
     
  23. 56oldsDarrin
    Joined: May 9, 2009
    Posts: 396

    56oldsDarrin
    Member

    Now, imagine doing that to the whole car!
    you learned a good lesson, but you don't have to spend the 2 weeks correcting it.
    I'd say thats a good thing!
     
  24. tony31a
    Joined: Aug 6, 2006
    Posts: 152

    tony31a
    Member

    nope, at least it will never perform like it was intended.
     



  25. Wow, words to live by .... "Now I only have what I need on my mixing table". I can't even begin to imagine how pissed I would have been after that mix-up. Thanks for mentioning your issue, just goes to show how easy it would be to make the same mistake.
     
  26. glassguy
    Joined: Feb 12, 2003
    Posts: 2,261

    glassguy
    Member

    no it wont ever really dry.. it will to the touch, but never cure..
     
  27. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,571

    BISHOP
    Member

    When ever you buy paint or clear that you are not familiar with, ask the person selling it to give you a "tech sheet". The tech sheet has all the info you will ever need.

    Those sheets will answer any questions you have about the product you are useing. They will have everything from drying times...... to what you can and can not do with the product.

    Keep all your tech sheets in a folder by your mixing table, or hang them on the wall.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2010
  28. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,214

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    Strip it all off and try again...you said it was a learning experience, and you definately learned the WRONG things to do.
    #1. Don't wait over 24 hours to clearcoat a base.
    #2. Remember to put your hardener in the clear
    #3. If shooting candy over a basecoat, it is "usually" better to use a basecoat type clear (made to spray without a hardener) to seal the base. It dries faster, tapes in less time, and doesn't have recoat problems. But I've done it both ways, depending on the type of graphic paint job going on top, the time frame I need to work with, and other factors.
    #4. you really need to sand your cleared base before taping and recoating with paint for graphics. Any time you recoat, if it's past your "shoot" window (usually 2-24 hours, depending on the brand/type paint) you need to sand for full adhesion. If you're finished with your graphics, you just unmask and clear. If you are doing more color... again, seal with some more clear, wait til the next day, and sand the clear and continue. The reason for clearing is that basecoat shouldn't be sanded before clearing, you'll see the sanding marks.
     
  29. FLATROCKER
    Joined: Jun 26, 2007
    Posts: 89

    FLATROCKER
    Member
    from nw ohio

    I painted everyday in a body shop and it happened to me one time. Luckily I only did 3 panels. It will probably never fully dry. I used cheap laquer thinner and plenty of clean rags. Keep it wiped off and dried. Its a mess, but it needs to be done. By the way, dont use gas or you will end up with a bigger mess-fisheyes!! And do this in a well ventilated area.
     
  30. Goozgaz
    Joined: Jan 11, 2005
    Posts: 2,555

    Goozgaz
    Member

    That's funny.

    Just like when I accidentally put salt in my coffee instead of sugar.
     

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